Offset closet flange

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Jadnashua

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Keep in mind that an offset that won't clog is essentially a standard flange with well-designed elbows built into it. It is likely to be slightly shorter than you could make up with fittings and a standard flange, but if you have the depth, those would work as well. The oval, short-coupled offsets are what are nasty and don't work well. The one pictured earlier is close to what you could build with standard fittings, and doesn't have the restrictions of the ones with an oval opening.
 

WallyGater

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1/16 bend

I am going to try the 1/16 bend that was suggested by hj. I was hoping to get a plumber to do it but have had no luck with that. today I purchased the 1/16 bend, and i will try to get it to fit on Monday. Also, While i`m at it let me ask another question. The plumber that cut off the old lead bend, replaced it with a furnco fitting that reduces from 4 inch to 3 inch. It has been suggested on this thread that I change out that fernco, and replace it with a "proper shielded one like a Fernco Proflex". Why does it reduce to 3 inch? Should I replace it with a 4 inch? Is there a reason why he reduced it? Would I be better off with the 4 inch pipe and flange?
 

Gary Swart

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The reducer is sized OK because it is taking a small pipe to a larger one. You just can't go the other way. The suggestion on changing the rubber Fernco to the Proflex is because the all rubber ones can flex and possible develop a leak. The are OK underground because the earth or concrete will prevent movement. I reality, it is probably not that serious a threat for you. I don't know why the plumber would not have stayed with 4" unless there was a space problem that made it easier to run that section with 3". Change it if you want, but the sizing is OK as it is. Remember, when working with plastic pipe, don't try to dry fit. The pieces require the solvent to get the parts to seat and of course once you do that, you're done.
 

Jadnashua

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A 4" pipe's angle's curve diameter is larger, and if you have space problems, a smaller diameter fitting can make the corners quicker without risking clogs.
 

WallyGater

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1/16 bend

I guess I`ll stay with the 3 inch. I thought I would get a better flush with the 4 inch, but I guess I`m wrong. Also I`m not sure if they have a 1/16 bend for a 4 inch pipe.
 

WallyGater

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1/16 bend

Today I tried to do the plumbing with the 1/16 bend. It looks fine to me but I have posted some pictures so the experts on this forum can take a look. the actual plumbing was very simple. I just put the 1/16 street bend into the fernco, and then shortened the pipe that comes out of it a little bit, and it worked out to a perfect 12 inch rough. Please look at the before and after pictures and tell me what you think. the before pictures were posted a few days ago.
 

WallyGater

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1/16 bend

here are the pictures
 

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Jadnashua

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I don't think that rubber fitting is approved for use inside. Yes, it will work, but it may not pass inspection.
 

Terry

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Pretty good for DIY.
Quick, test it and close it up.
Plumbers would have used the shielded coupling, but it sure looks better than before.

Actually, I normally remove the pipe from the hub and use a rubber inside hub fernco and shove the pipe into it.
But that is not very easy to do.
Sometime I will take some pictures of that and post them.

Here is a nice lead pour that Master Plumber Mark did.

I cheat and use the rubber fernco inside the hub instead.

mark_13.jpg
 
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WallyGater

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1/16 bend

Quote "hj"

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"The offset is not the ONLY way, just possibly the easiest one. A plumber would probably use a street 1/16 bend between the tee and the closet bend to offset it back".

What a great idea. I had no idea they had a 1/16 bend. It seemed to solve my whole problem.

Quote "Terry"
"Pretty good for DIY. Plumbers would have used the shielded coupling, but it sure looks better than before".

Just for the record, a licenced plumber did install that rubber fernco. He cut off the old lead bend with a sawsall and put that rubber fernco on. He then stuck a pc of 3 inch pvc, with an elbow. then he added the riser, but did not glue it in so that I could trim it to size after the floor was tiled. He said that I would be fine with the 14 inch and that I should just leave it like that. After about 2 weeks of thinking about it I called the plumbing company back and told them I would like it changed to 12 inch. they sent over to same plumber, and he said that it is what it is, and that I should just leave it. he made it sound like the only way to change it was to cut the stack, and reposition the tee. Unbelievable. I guess this guy never heard of a 1/16 bend either.
I am going to call that plumbing company back tomorrow and make a complaint. I`m going to start the conversation with that fernco that they used. If it will not pass inspection then why did they use it? next I want to know why I was able to achieve a 12 inch rough ( In 10 minutes ) and the plumber that they sent to my house, twice, could not?
I would like to thank everyone on this forum for their help, and I will let you know what the plumbing company says about that fernco, and what they plan to do about it.
 

Jadnashua

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If the licensed plumber pulled a permit and had it inspected, it would likely fail because of that fitting...it's not approved for that use. But, as I said, it should work.
Because the flange should be screwed down to the subflooring, that end shouldn't move, so the risk is small.
 

WallyGater

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1/16 bend and fernco

the plumbing company came today. the owner of the company came to look at the fernco fitting. He said I should leave it. he said that although it is not code, It is a better fitting. He said the shielded ones tend to leak. He also said that the iron pipe they used 75 years ago is much thicker than the iron they use today. he said the shielded coupling is made for today's iron and would not fit very well on the old iron pipe that I have.
I decided to leave the fitting alone and proceed with closing up the floor and ceiling.
How do I test this? Terry said "test it and close it up". how can you test a thing like this?
 

Terry

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Terry said "test it and close it up". how can you test a thing like this?

You will have it open after the work is done I'm guessing for a while.
That would be a running test.

I was really saying, it was time to close it up, and let the plumber get back.
The owner of your company just doesn't know how to do what I do, that's all.
My choice has always been to pull out the pipe and replace all the way inside the hub. Not many plumbers nowadays are willing to do that.

There is very little weight on the coupling, it should be fine.
 
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