Need help with Fleck 7000SXT programming

Discussion in 'Water Softener Forum, problems, installation and r' started by JimmyG, Oct 17, 2013.

  1. mialynette2003

    mialynette2003 Member

    Messages:
    738
    Location:
    Ocala, Florida
    You have one of 2 problems or even both. 1. Float not properly set for grid plate 2. Brine fill not properly set for refill flow control. Pull the float assemble. Notice the words "check height" on the air check itself. This should be level with the grid plate. Find the flow control sticker and post the number or measure the flow gpm and post.
  2. Gary Slusser

    Gary Slusser That's all folks!

    I'm going to disagree with a grid needing the air check at the height of the grid. Or, to have to be an inch above the grid when Refill is finished. If the grid is plastic and has hollow legs that salt gets down into, the refill water dissolves salt just fine because it is lighter than the brine and goes to the top of the brine where it dissolves salt just fine. And there is always some brine left in all salt tanks for that to happen. Well, unless a grid does not allow salt below the surface of the grid, and I haven't seen or heard of one of them in the last 15 to 20 years.
  3. mialynette2003

    mialynette2003 Member

    Messages:
    738
    Location:
    Ocala, Florida
    I went on a service call years ago and as soon as I removed the brine tank lid the woman told me the salt has not moved since it was installed 2 yrs prior. I found the air check was on the botton of the tank. The only thing I did was cut off several inches and told her I would check back in a month. That must have been the issue because when I tested the water again, it was soft. The grid plates I have dealt with do have holes in the feet so water can dissolve the salt. But as to your own admission, brine is heavier than plain water so I don't see how "all" the water can become saturated when it can not travel "up" the legs of the grid plate. IMO, you will never get soft water as long as the level of the water does not come up past the grid plate.
  4. 65Mustang

    65Mustang New Member

    Messages:
    11
    Location:
    New York
    I found a white sticker on the head. It shows:

    BLFC = 0.125 GPM
    DLFC – GPM

    Also note that when I started the re-gen the other day, there was approximately 4 gallons of water solution in the brine tank, just under the plastic deck. I added 1 gallon to make it approximately 5 gallons. So I re-gened with 1 extra gallon (not 1 gallon total).

    I believe because of the additional 1 gallon of water I added, the final capacity reading went from 1909 to 2326. I just checked again and there is water to the bottom of the deck, so I’m thinking there is still 4 gallons in the brine tank.

    What is the Grid plate ? Is that the plastic "deck" at the bottom of the brine tank ? If so, I did observe salt in the feet.

    Also, if the BD cycle is 60 minutes and I only observed 13 minutes of flow, shouldn't there be more water to draw from or the cycle reduced ?
  5. ditttohead

    ditttohead Water systems designer, R&D

    Messages:
    1,871
    Location:
    Ontario California
    My main problem with relying on the holes in the leg of the grid plate is that they can and do get clogged. When we do large industrial brine grids, we always make sure the water level goes at least 1" above the grid.

    That being said, regular cleaning of the brine tank should be done and would allow the holes in the bottom of the legs to work properly.

    As to your hard water after a regeneration, I am going to recommend the next step, make sure the softener feeds the location you are testing. Kitchen sinks are regularly bypassed of hard water, in older installations, the toilets may even be bypassed. The bypass valve can be used to turn the water off to the house. Turn the bypass handle so the holes are vertical on the outlet of the system.
  6. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,496
    Location:
    IL
    I have not seen a salt grid. I had pictured them to be relatively thin and that the pickup would not draw from below the grid surface. I was presuming wrongly I suspect. From what I am wondering from responses on this thread, could it be true that

    1. a properly placed pickup with the air check valve on the dip tube could pull water far below the surface of a salt grid?

    2. that a refill of 4 gallons might not raise the brine level significantly visible above the grid to where a fifth gallon would make the water much more visible in the tank?

    3. the pickup could sit in some cavity/hole that extends beneath the top of the grid but yet solid salt would not go below the top of the salt grid? Is that some singular hole made for the purpose of connecting with the air check valve on the dip tube?

    On the thing about checking the right faucets, I am familiar with some houses in moderate hardness areas only having soft water piped to the hot water.
  7. Gary Slusser

    Gary Slusser That's all folks!

    Regardless of the type of air check or brine pickup tube, there is always brine left in the salt tank. Fresh water (Refill water, softened or hard) classifies on top of it because of the heavier brine staying on the bottom. Refill water will always dissolve any salt it comes in contact with, regardless if the salt is in hollow grid legs or on top of the grid. It takes 2-3 hours to dissolve salt to solution saturation. Plastic grids and their legs are perforated to allow refill water to contact the salt. The people wanting the refill to stop at least 1" above the grid are proving refill water classifies on top of the brine and that just 1" of contact will dissolve salt. Now IF 50 lb block salt is used, there will not be any salt down in the grid legs.
  8. mialynette2003

    mialynette2003 Member

    Messages:
    738
    Location:
    Ocala, Florida
    You do not have enough fill time based on the BLFC of .125. Change the BF to 32.
  9. 65Mustang

    65Mustang New Member

    Messages:
    11
    Location:
    New York
    Ok, I believe I have this Fleck 7000 unit working better.

    Yesterday I added 2 gallons of water to the solution to get 1 inch of water sitting on the grid. Added salt to cover the water and let sit overnight.
    This morning I did another re-gen and observed the stages. I bumped up the Brine Fill from 20 to 32 (per suggestion from mialynette2003) before the re-gen. Here are the settings:

    C = 30
    H = 14
    SF= 20
    RC= 150
    DO= 7
    B1=10
    BD=60
    B2=5
    RR=10
    BF=32 (Changed from 20)
    FM=t1.5

    The water draw during the BD cycle finishes about 30 minutes into the 60 minute cycle. The final capacity after re-gen went from 1535 to 2396. Also, the water fill after the BF stage results in about 1 inch of water above the grid. Soft water is more present now and the hardness at the kitchen sink reads 8.

    I should mention that all plumbing gets water from the softener (except the outdoor faucets).

    If anyone has any final comments, feel free to append. Thanks all for the assistance.

    *** 65mustang
  10. ditttohead

    ditttohead Water systems designer, R&D

    Messages:
    1,871
    Location:
    Ontario California
    Programming guide below.

    This is for a higher quality water setting, not as efficieint though.

    7000 15.jpg
  11. Gary Slusser

    Gary Slusser That's all folks!

    Mustang, since your softener hasn't been regenerating properly you haven't been removing all the hardness from the resin. That means your capacity is reduced and that is why you are getting hardness through the softener. The cure is to change the salt dose (minutes o refill water) to 15 lbs per cuft of resin and then do 2 manual regenerations with no water use during or between them. Then change the salt dose to what it has to be for the capacity you need between regenerations including a 24 hr reserve. You can learn how to do that by clicking the Click Here link in my signature.
  12. wantonsoup

    wantonsoup New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Location:
    Colorado
    I moved into a house serviced by a well a year ago, and after having tested the water it was moderately hard and had a little bit of iron, so we put in a softener and a Centaur carbon filter (filter first of course). Both use a Fleck 7000 head unit.

    But 6 months later we started getting the stinky water and it got worse and worse until I did a bleach shock chlorination which solved the problem for a little while and now it's starting up again. When I do an extra cycle on the carbon filter, the smell goes away for a few days. It's set up to regen every 7 days, I'm thinking I could just up that to every 3 days to fix this problem, but your link to the Eliminator system makes me wonder if I can easily retrofit my current Centaur / Fleck 7000 system with the bleach tank to solve this problem too?

    What are your thoughts?
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