Is this the sign of a leak? (cast iron pipe)

[Too Ambitious]

.... Or replace with ABS/PVC... but Definitely replace all the galvanized steel drains.. those are absolute garbage. Any steel drain that is horizontal is just waiting to fail.

I'm planning to replace with PVC.

The only question I have left is whether to replace all the way to the wye into the main drain, or if I should just go to the street 45.

I think it's going to be a lot easier to drill out the solder if I leave the street 45. Though I guess I could cut the 45 to make it easier to access.

 

[Too Ambitious]

Another question:

After taking a closer look I realized the galvanized branch to the kitchen sink is 1-1/2" all the way.

Is there any benefit to upsizing to 2" up into the wall even though the sink and dishwasher traps are 1-1/2"? (then use a 2 x 1-1/2 fernco to connect to the vent)

edit: found this post which seems to imply I should go to 2"

The trap and trap arm can be 1.5"
After the vent the waste should be 2.0"
Fifty years ago, they were run with 1.5", but since then the codes have used 2.0"

edit2: here's a crude diagram.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Tuttles Revenge]

I would make your connection to whichever hub makes for the easiest work, best angle to insert that donut. In the sink compartment I like to install my cleanouts above the sink connection and definitely not in the crawlspace. Depending on your sink requirements, I generally try to install my stub out behind one of the sink drain locations and typically pointed just off center of a disposer. That way I bring my continuous wastes together at one of the sink bays and that leaves most of the sink cabinet open.

 

[wwhitney]

For the IPC, in use in North Carolina, the red kitchen sink fixture drain could be either 1.5" or 2". But 2" is generally preferred.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[Too Ambitious]

I would make your connection to whichever hub makes for the easiest work, best angle to insert that donut. In the sink compartment I like to install my cleanouts above the sink connection and definitely not in the crawlspace. Depending on your sink requirements, I generally try to install my stub out behind one of the sink drain locations and typically pointed just off center of a disposer. That way I bring my continuous wastes together at one of the sink bays and that leaves most of the sink cabinet open.

That's just the way it's piped now. Is it okay to remove that last wye in the crawlspace and just do a 45? Then it could be snaked from the stub out?

This is the way my under sink looks now. I'm really struggling with how to clean it up. The stub out is to the far right of the cabinet. I feel like this would be a lot cleaner if I moved the disposal to the other sink. That would allow me to put the trap under the right sink and just pipe the disposal straight over like the way preferred here. It seems like most people prefer it in the smaller bowl, but that doesn't really matter to me.

I want to make the stub out lower which will hopefully allow me to use only one trap.

A big problem I'm having right now is how crowded the space behind/between the two sink bowls is. I have a touchless faucet with a giant valve brick up in there. Sometimes the sprayer hose gets stuck. I don't even have enough room to get the weight on the hose.

(When I do this, I'll also be replacing the inlet valves and wiring the disposal on an outlet and cord to eliminate exposed Romex.)

Sorry, that got longer than expected!

For the IPC, in use in North Carolina, the red kitchen sink fixture drain could be either 1.5" or 2". But 2" is generally preferred.

Cheers, Wayne

Thanks. I will go w/ 2" unless I run into something unexpected.

 

[Tuttles Revenge]

OK.. so if you're going to make changes to the water lines too, you have the perfect opportunity to fix that space to make it work for all the extra stuff we have going on in a modern kitchen sink cabinet.

I like to have my water lines stub out on one side of my sink cab opposite the side of the disposer. H&C dedicated for the faucet and separate water lines for each other water fixture.. IE hot to the DW and separate lines for insta hots or filters. You can buy disposer continous waste kits that pipe straight horizontal out of the disposer to the side of the tee.. then bring the other sink bay to the top of the waste tee. You can aim the disposer and sink both back to the trap that is out of the way

 

[Reach4]

This is the way my under sink looks now. I'm really struggling with how to clean it up. The stub out is to the far right of the cabinet. I feel like this would be a lot cleaner if I moved the disposal to the other sink.

The smaller bowl is intended allow the output/discharge of the disposal to be higher than the trap adapter at the wall. You must be going lower on the way to the wall.

A self-leveling laser level can help you see the levels. Yes, you can use a bubble level, but the self-leveling laser level makes it much easier.

See https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/need-ideas-to-fix-s-trap.97283/#post-699939

 

[Tuttles Revenge]

I didn't catch the multiple height bowls. But by lowering the stub out you can combine both sink bays to drop into one trap as they're intended to be done.

 

[Too Ambitious]

The infrastructure is done. Still have to finish plumbing under the sink, but I bought the wrong size shut off valves. (Need 3/8, bought 1/2.)

I made a few mistakes in the glue up order that made my life a lot harder. Almost lost my whole trap adapter assembly due to a bad joint but managed to pull it apart and salvage it. Oh, and I only broke one drill bit drilling out the lead and only wrecked one sawzall blade.

The bad flex duct run is from a lazy subcontractor and will be fixed eventually. Slowly working on fixing up the ductwork, but it's like pulling a thread. For everything I fix, I discover 5 things that were hiding.

I'll cover my ugly cutout with some lauan.

 

[Too Ambitious]

Figured I'd come back and post a final, finished image.

I wanted to put a dual valve on the hot line to clean up that nest of hoses on the left, but considering I'm coming back in a year or two and almost completely replumbing the house, it seemed like a waste of money. The temporary solution is Sharkbite male adaptors with new valves. It achieved the goal, which was to be able to put the weight on the sprayer hose.

Took a while to "finish" finish because we also tiled the backsplash and ran into a few hiccups there. Learned a lot from this project, which will hopefully make the big bathroom reno go smoother. The one minor improvement not visible is that I switched the disposal to cord-and-plug and added a countertop air switch.

 

[Terry]

I added the countertop air switch to mine recently. My wall switch was away in the corner and not everyone in the household could reach it.
Looks nice what you did.

 

[wwhitney]

Does the extra "trap" in the dishwasher hose between the high loop and the garbage disposal matter? I thought that the dishwasher hose should be strictly downhill from the high loop to the disposal, but maybe I'm mistaken.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[Terry]

Does the extra "trap" in the dishwasher hose between the high loop and the garbage disposal matter? I thought that the dishwasher hose should be strictly downhill from the high loop to the disposal, but maybe I'm mistaken.

Cheers, Wayne

I forgot to look at that, I was focusing on the p-trap. It's best to run the drain from the dishwasher high first and then grade downward to the disposer. Yes
I'm going to blame it on the football game being played as I type this.

Even better when an Air-Gap is installed with it.

 

[Too Ambitious]

I fixed the dishwasher loop. Threw in an extra clamp on the back and twisted the hose where it connects to the disposal. Thanks for pointing that out.

I added the countertop air switch to mine recently. My wall switch was away in the corner and not everyone in the household could reach it.
Looks nice what you did.

The previous switch was installed in a handy box inside the cabinet & the disposal was hard wired. Really inconvenient.

I'm also a big fan of the touchless faucet. I know not everyone is, but I haven't had a problem in over a year. (and installing the outlet now means it's no longer running on batteries)