Bathtub Drain/Overflow Connection to Cast Iron Drain Pipe

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & ' started by darylm, Dec 3, 2012.

  1. darylm

    darylm New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Location:
    Texas
    I am remodeling the bathroom and kitchen in a house that my wife and I recently purchased and one of the things we wanted to do was to put in a tile floor and make it about the same level as the existing hardwood flooring.

    After removing the multiple layers of underlayment and getting to the subfloor we could see wood rot that needed to be dealt with first.

    I have now replaced the rotted joist and am ready to start rebuilding the subfloor but before I do that I want to do whatever is needed to the drain for the bathtub since I have full and easy access to it at this point.

    Here is a picture of the bathtub drain pipes (before I replaced the joist).

    BathtubDrainPipes.jpg

    Since I have easy access to this plumbing now... I'd like to put in whatever should be installed and in the right way so that I end up with no leaks and no problems for a long time. :p

    Please advise...
  2. jimbo

    jimbo Plumber

    Messages:
    8,997
    Location:
    San Diego
    This is not an easy job since the original plumber was skilled in soldering that tube to get the offsets he needed. I suggest getting a plumber to look at it.
  3. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,227
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    That job is well beyond your level of incompetence, so you may need a plumber to relocate the trap and provide a connection for you NEW drain assembly.
  4. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    14,749
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    As tough as those two answers sound, I was thinking the same thing. It's even a bit hard explaining in laymen terms why that setup looks so difficult to work with to us.
  5. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,227
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    quote; As tough as those two answers sound

    We are NOT here to make every job "easy". We try to give the best answer, and sometimes that answer is "DON'T try to DIY". We cannot make a plumber out of someone with a few sentences in an E-mail.
  6. Lakee911

    Lakee911 I&C Engineer (mostly WWTP)

    Messages:
    1,328
    Location:
    Columbus, OH
    Really???

    I would suggest cutting back the cast iron well to the left of the picture and replacing with PVC. I'd think that a banded flexible coupling (on the cast to PVC) would allow for a little play (if necessary) and along with a much longer length of pipe, he could put that drain right where he needs it. I'd replace the drain pipig and overflow with plastic.

    But...maybe I'm missing something...wouldn't be the first time. :)
  7. darylm

    darylm New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Location:
    Texas
    Thanks...

    I've done a fair amount of construction work in my half of century of being here on this earth... but have not had to work with lead and oakum before...

    What I was considering is to remove the lead and oakum and use a convert from cast iron to PVC either using a Fernco or PVC compression donut and then just use PVC
  8. Lakee911

    Lakee911 I&C Engineer (mostly WWTP)

    Messages:
    1,328
    Location:
    Columbus, OH
    That's a possibility, but I'm not sure you'll have enough room to make up those slight and funny angles. Worth a shot--might need to get it apart, clean it really good and measure for a donut before you get started. It that doesn't work, cut it back further and forget the belled end.
  9. darylm

    darylm New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Location:
    Texas
    I believe that there is another cast iron hub before the cast iron pipe goes into the main stack... so if I needed to I could go back even further for the cast iron to PVC connection.
  10. cacher_chick

    cacher_chick Test, Don't Guess!

    Messages:
    3,236
    Location:
    Land of Cheese
    What is the distance between the trap and it's vent?
  11. darylm

    darylm New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Location:
    Texas
    Good question.

    I am not certain... but it is not too far... probably less than 2 feet... which probably means that the next hub is the hub on the main stack.

    I'll need to check that and take some pictures so that I have better pictures as a reference.
  12. Gary Swart

    Gary Swart In the Trades

    Messages:
    7,296
    Location:
    Yakima WA
    I know this is a DIY help forum, but sometimes the best advice to a DIY is to get professional help. Several of the real pros have alluded to this, and it might be wise to consider their advice. It's often cheaper in the long run to get the professional sooner than later.
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