Closet Flange Cracked Along Bolt Slot

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WorkingDad

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I'm in process of replacing a builders installed $50 toilet in my boys' upstairs bathroom (with AS Championn)and I noticed that the closet flange is cracked aalong the right side slot in which the blots sit. My first instinct was to replace the flange - but it was late at night and I reasoned that because the builder had installed the original toilet with the cracked flange (the bolt was not even a little bit tight on dissassembly) so perhaps I could also do a half-assed job and use the cracked flange.

Needless to say, it didn't hold. The closet bolt did not hold. And, I'm now into day two and looking at relacing (or repairing) the flange.

Does anyone know of any repair tips (braces, bolt-downs, etc.) that work to avoid having to replace the flange?

I assume there is no solvent that easily breaks the purple glue bond. Is the replacement process to cut the PVC and re-pipe the flange?:confused:
 
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nealbell

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The purple glue you are seeing is actually the PVC primer, and if both primer and glue were used on the flange it will be impossible to get off unless you cut it off.

Is the waste pipe cracked along with the flange, or is it the flange only? If it's only the flange just go somewhere like lowes, *******, or home depot and get a brass or stainless steel flange repair ring. You can buy these for less than $10, secure it to the old flange with some plumber's putty and supplied bolts, and your problem should be taken care of.
 

Gary Swart

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Check the repair rings out, they supposedly work quite well for just a broken flange ring. It is possible to remove a solvent welded fitting, but it requires some effort. To it, use a hacksaw blade or similar cutting tool, and cut parallel slices in the fitting about 1/4" to 1/2" apart. Go just through the fitting. Then drive a flat blade screw driver behind these pieces to pry them off. You will then have to scrape and clean the pipe to be able to slip and new fitting on. If you have access under the floor, it would probably be easier just to cut the closet bend off and install new pieces.
 

WorkingDad

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Gary Swart said:
Check the repair rings out, they supposedly work quite well for just a broken flange ring. It is possible to remove a solvent welded fitting, but it requires some effort. To it, use a hacksaw blade or similar cutting tool, and cut parallel slices in the fitting about 1/4" to 1/2" apart. Go just through the fitting. Then drive a flat blade screw driver behind these pieces to pry them off. You will then have to scrape and clean the pipe to be able to slip and new fitting on. If you have access under the floor, it would probably be easier just to cut the closet bend off and install new pieces.

Thanks Gary and Neal - I'm on my way to Home Depot:( to buy a repair ring. I hope they have it. HD inventory seems to be hit or miss. I might have to drive the extra 10 miles to Lowes :) . Here in Fairfax County, VA the Lowes, while further out of town, are much better stocked than are the Home Despots. And usually worth the trip.
 

WorkingDad

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The Value of Local Merchants

My mistake for trying Home Despot first. They had two products that if Gerry-rigged might work to support the cracked clost flange. But neither to fit the specific requirement.

I then went to the local plumbing supply shop. Bingo! A stainless steel collar that swings open and fits between the flange & the floor. Now the toilet bolts will have suppot directly against a steel flange. Should be a 10minute install of the support flange.:cool:

The additional value of local merchants is practical experience. We chatted for 20 minutes (no one else in the shop) on the setup of this flange in addition to another plumbing repair I have waiting in the wings - a pinhole on a cold water coppper pipe in my basement ceiling.

Also saw the Toto toilet. They sell a base model named the Caruso, I believe, at $100. Is this a good product?
 

Mikey

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Is your situation such that there's space between the flange and the floor? I think that would be very unusual. My toilets are on a concrete slab, and there's zero space between the flange and the concrete. How would that repair gizmo work here?
 

WorkingDad

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Mikey,

I'm working on an upstairs toile; so the flange is on a plywood floor. I was able to split the ring in half and paired the bolt slot up with the cracket bolt slot on the right side of the pvc flange - slid under the pvc flange. I drilled new holes on the metal repair piece to match the pvc screws to the floor. It worked well. Also, I cut the othe half of the repair ring to slide under the left side of the flange to keep it level. Unfortunately I couldn't find a premade repair solution for a cracked pvc flange. They all seemed to made for iron flanges.

Rob
 
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