Yet another low pressure &?

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SHill

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This most likely has been answered before, but cannot find reference to it. I have a 23 year old 20 gallon "Well-X-Trol" tank that I believe is ready for replacement.

What is happening is when the sub well pump turns on, (125 ft deep), water pressure is normal, but after about 2 minutes of running water from the shower, (or elsewhere in the home), the pressure goes WAY down. I have never had this low a pressure. After about 5 minutes of this very low water pressure, the pump comes back on and the pressure is normal, & the cycle of low pressure starts again.

I haven't checked the tank pressure with a guage, but there is air in it when the tank is empty. I have also replaced the pressure switch last week & is set for 40 - 60lbs.

Is there a check valve that may be bad letting water pressure go back into the well? Or is this bladder tank history? Or??

Also, I keep ready about "Cycle Stop Valves" being the newest and greatest thing for constant pressure. Would this be worth getting and installing when I will be changing the tank? What kind do I get & how does it install? Can someone point me into the right direction on where to get one of these.

I'm a retired HVAC tech, so I am familiar with some plumbing and not afraid of doing things myself.

Our house is a small rancher with 2 small bathrooms. Just myself & wife. Don't need a lot of supply.

thanks for any help on this.
 

Valveman

Cary Austin
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Doesn't sound like a tank problem. Sounds like the thermal overload in the motor is shutting the pump off. It usally takes a few minutes for it to reset itself and try again. Probably a motor problem. This type of motor failure is usually cause by excessive cycling on and off. So yes a CSV would have kept this from happening but, it probalby can't help until you get the motor replaced. If the tank is still good, the CSV will make it last longer. If the tank is bad, you can replace it like this.
 

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SHill

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I don't believe the pump is recycling too much because the pump is drawing 6 amps & rated for 11 amps. I don't think this is going into an overload condition, as the pump switch is what is cutting on & off the pump as I watch it open & close the contacts.

The picture you show, is that the cycle stop valve on the bottom? Does that valve get installed before the pressure switch or after?
 

Valveman

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So which is it? Does the pump cycle on and off while you are experiencing low pressure, or do you have to wait 5 minutes for the pump to "come back on".

And 6 amps with a 11 amp motor means you are not pumping much if any water. Either you have run out of water, the screen to the pump is clogged, there is a restriction in the discharge line, or the pump is worn out. Maybe that you only have water and pressure until the tank is empty, then when water comes from the pump it is not adequate to keep up with demand. If your pump will only deliver 1 GPM and you are using more than that, you won't have any water or pressure.
 

SHill

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No the pump does not cycle on & off with low pressure. It's that the presure goes way to low before the pump comes on.

I also read the data plate wrong on the owners manual to the pump. It is an 8 amp pump.
 

SHill

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Do the points in the pressure switch come together at 40 PSI? If not, then the tube going into the pressure switch is clogged.

Another problem I have is that my pressure guage doesn't seem to move below or above 40. I think that guage may also be bad. This weekend, I'll go and get a new one and check that tube.

I didn't think to check that tube when I changed the pressure switch last week. I thought that was the problem, but wasn't......

I still plan on changing that bladder tank when the weather breaks and want to install one of those cycle stop valves. Do you know what size I would need?

thanks for this help......
 

Valveman

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Without knowing anything about the size of your pump or the depth to water, I would say a CSV1Z. Usually a good bet anyway. May can use a different valve but, need more info before I would suggest anything different.
 
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