Worried about Big Blue filter housing rupture

[Scottp999]

Hi, looking to install one or two big blue filters at my mother in laws house before a water softener. One to remove sediment, and one maybe for carbon block to keep some chlorine off the resin.

The issue is she has no basement drain and the sewer is elevated 7' above the basement floor. She is roughed in for a basement bathroom, which has drainage and venting to a rough in pit for a sewage ejection system (future install). The utility area has the main waterline coming into a pex based home run type distribution for the house, and a tankless water heater. Even if she had an issue with the tankless water heater, there is no where for the water to drain now. The back of the house is walkout level. Should she install the sewage ejection pump now, and maybe have a floor drain put into that utility area that runs to the sewage ejection pit? Then there could be drain pans under the future big blue housings and water heater that lead to that drain?

Thanks for any thoughts.

 

[Reach4]

1. get a pressure gauge, to check the city water pressure.
2. Don't use generic big blue filter housing. Use Pentair Pentek brand.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[LLigetfa]

1. get a pressure gauge, to check the city water pressure.

Confirm whether there is a PRV and if it is a closed system, an expansion tank.

 

[Scottp999]

Confirm whether there is a PRV and if it is a closed system, an expansion tank.

There is a prv, and pipe down but no drain or drain pan below.

Rather than installing the sewage ejection pump, if she has no plans to put in that basement bathroom, then maybe one of those leak detection systems that turns off the main would be more economical in this situation? www.getfloodstop.com ???

1. get a pressure gauge, to check the city water pressure.
2. Don't use generic big blue filter housing. Use Pentair Pentek brand.

Have done #1, there is a water pressure regulator valve and it is currently set at about 65 psi.

 

[Bannerman]

A floor drain is always useful. If the pressure relief valve on the tankless should discharge, or a pipe burst, where would that water drain to?

Since there is a pit already in place, a simple, inexpensive sump pump could likely be easily installed for use up to when a basement toilet is installed.

 

[LLigetfa]

There is a prv, and pipe down but no drain or drain pan below.

I don't understand. Are you talking about a TPR (Temperature Pressure Relief) on a water heater? Those blow off at a very high pressure and are only meant to keep the water heater from launching like a rocket.

Perhaps you mean a pressure relief valve? It shares the same PRV acronym with the the following.

A PRV (Pressure Regulating Valve) is normally at the point of entry near the water meter. If you have one, then it should maintain safe pressure as long as you also have a working thermal expansion tank.

 

[Scottp999]

I don't understand. Are you talking about a TPR (Temperature Pressure Relief) on a water heater? Those blow off at a very high pressure and are only meant to keep the water heater from launching like a rocket.

Perhaps you mean a pressure relief valve? It shares the same PRV acronym with the the following.

A PRV (Pressure Regulating Valve) is normally at the point of entry near the water meter. If you have one, then it should maintain safe pressure as long as you also have a working thermal expansion tank.

correct. pressure relief valve from the tankless unit, there is also a pressure regulator near the incoming water supply for the house.

I like Bannerman's idea and will discuss that with her. Put a drain near the existing pit (which is in same room as the potential filter system and existing hot water heater), and run that drain to the pit. Install a sump pump for now. Will be a bit of piping to run to eject the water out of the rear wall of the house, but there is a nice grade in the back for it.

 

[LLigetfa]

I missed where you said you have a tankless water heater.

 

[Bannerman]

a bit of piping to run to eject the water out of the rear wall of the house, but there is a nice grade in the back for it.

As you said the pit's purpose is to eventually collect waste from a future basement bathroom, I anticipate there should then be a septic/sewer connection roughed-in close-by so as to discharge the effluent from a macerator pump to be eventually located in that pit.

Because a floor drain will be primarily a safety precaution in case of a broken pipe or WH pressure relief valve release and will therefore receive little use, I anticipate a sump pump could be connected to the roughed-in sewer/septic line, thereby eliminating the need to run an extended length of discrete pipe to the exterior.

 

[Scottp999]

As you said the pit's purpose is to eventually collect waste from a future basement bathroom, I anticipate there should then be a septic/sewer connection roughed-in close-by so as to discharge the effluent from a macerator pump to be eventually located in that pit.

Because a floor drain will be primarily a safety precaution in case of a broken pipe or WH pressure relief valve release and will therefore receive little use, I anticipate a sump pump could be connected to the roughed-in sewer/septic line, thereby eliminating the need to run an extended length of discrete pipe to the exterior.

Great point. Yes there is a capped off Wye at the ceiling level above the pit. Thanks! I was looking at one of those all inclusive sump pumps, that had a drain right in the lid that has a float so gasses cannot escape through the drain. Something like this. Maybe I could just get that lid somewhere? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-3-10-HP-Pre-Plumbed-Sump-Pump-System-THD1095/302646646

Found just the drain part: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013TGLXM0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Or maybe for more flow capacity:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07X81C5RQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1



Should work nicely.

 

[ditttohead]

Don't use a BB carbon... these are massively undersized. I know lots of companies promote them, they are not correct and should not be used. A properly designed carbon filter system would be the correct way to do it. As stated above, get a Pentek or an Atlas Filtri housing. Do not get clear.