Willing to critique my tankless install?
- Thread starter William Powell
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Breplum
Licensed plumbing contractor
Condensate drain must not go directly into a plumbing system drain without an acid neutralizer kit.
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Axiom-N...iIzMQAAhrLLGhvnx-F5QbnxI2Qh1SwgQaAkEIEALw_wcB
If that is CSST, and depending on your model BTU rating, if over 10' of CSST then you may not have proper gas supply from 3/4" CSST. 3/4" CSST does not have equal capacity to 3/4" steel pipe.
Too bad you won't have a warranty: Takagi states: "8Page• Installation and service must be performed by a qualified installer (for example, a licensed plumber or gas fitter), otherwise the warranty will be void.• The installer (licensed professional) is responsible for the correct installation of the water heater and for compliance with all national, state/provincial, and local codes.• The manufacturer does not recommend installing the water heater in a pit "
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Axiom-N...iIzMQAAhrLLGhvnx-F5QbnxI2Qh1SwgQaAkEIEALw_wcB
If that is CSST, and depending on your model BTU rating, if over 10' of CSST then you may not have proper gas supply from 3/4" CSST. 3/4" CSST does not have equal capacity to 3/4" steel pipe.
Too bad you won't have a warranty: Takagi states: "8Page• Installation and service must be performed by a qualified installer (for example, a licensed plumber or gas fitter), otherwise the warranty will be void.• The installer (licensed professional) is responsible for the correct installation of the water heater and for compliance with all national, state/provincial, and local codes.• The manufacturer does not recommend installing the water heater in a pit "
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William Powell
Member
Neutralizer is not required in my jurisdiction. We can actually drain these just about anywhere here.
I'm not worried about warranty when I could replace the machine 4 times before paying someone else to install one for me. Call me crazy...
This unit is the 160,000 BTU/hr model. The CSST run is 8' end-to-end. Furthermore, my digital manometer indicated .1 "WC of pressure drop with all gas appliances running at max versus all turned off, so I take that to mean the supply piping is sufficient. Would you agree?
I really appreciate your comments and thanks for taking the time!!
I'm not worried about warranty when I could replace the machine 4 times before paying someone else to install one for me. Call me crazy...
This unit is the 160,000 BTU/hr model. The CSST run is 8' end-to-end. Furthermore, my digital manometer indicated .1 "WC of pressure drop with all gas appliances running at max versus all turned off, so I take that to mean the supply piping is sufficient. Would you agree?
I really appreciate your comments and thanks for taking the time!!
William Powell
Member
I truly do appreciate your insights here. Upon reading further about the acidity of the condensate, I have chosen to install the neutralize you linked to. No reason to harm environment just because the code says I can... It wont interrupt the current install too badly!
Also, that last bit about the pit in the warranty statements? For full clarity, are you saying a basement install would fail regardless of who did the work? Are they considering a basement to be a pit? I suppose it fundamentally is a pit... It is very common to install these in basements here, so I am wondering if this is only Takagi? Or do they all say that?
I could really use your help on my other thread regarding my DWV pipes. Its such a mess!! I have been studying and came up with a plan, but I don't want to do all things twice (or more).
https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/first-timer-here-begging-your-expertise.93558/
Thanks again,
William
Last edited:
Plumber69
In the Trades
As long as you didnt use brass pex fittings for condensate your good
William Powell
Member
To be honest, right now it is draining very close to the unit using 1/2" PVC fittings. Until I have the utility sink (laundry basin sink) setup in its new location, the condensate is directed toward the basement floor drain.
Is this because the acidic water doesn't play nice with brass? Corrosion issues? Thanks for your insights!
Doesn't play nice with copper, galvanized, or cast iron either.
Some build their own neutralizers with small limestone gravel as the media. Sold in bulk by the cubic yard. Or marble chips. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Vigoro-0-5-cu-ft-Bagged-Marble-Chips-54141/100583677
I don't know how long the commercial neutralizer cartridges last.
William Powell
Member
This is awesome, thanks for the link!! And also really good to know about the other materials. Makes complete sense, but not something I have thought about before...
Fitter30
Well-Known Member
If your drain is cast iron you need a neutralizer unless after a few years you want to pay to have the line replaced.
William Powell
Member
Thanks for your input. It seems there is ecological reason to do so as well, so it will make the hippies happy!! Got to like that! Reach4 mentioned the corrosion issues, so its certainly something more serious than I would expect. I like the idea of not paying $50 for some plastic and limestone tho! I am glad Reach4 mentioned it before I purchased the one in breplumb's link!
Fitter30
Well-Known Member
Could also take a five gallon plastic bucket with lid filled with chat and a bulkhead fitting mounted in side up at top of chat line. Condensate line through the top bulkhead fitting hose to drain.
William Powell
Member
This seems like a much longer service interval plan! I like it!
I am in the process of relocating the laundry basin sink in my basement and would like to work more horizontally because I only have about 18" of drop from the heater outlet to the top (flood level) of the laundry basin sink. The bucket would surely eat up my available slope distance for proper drainage, and I would have to drain into the floor drain. Not to say that is a bad thing. Just trying to consider all aspects...
Maybe I could find something that could be conveniently oriented in the horizontal (slight drain slope) orientation and would work within my tight height constraints to still hit the sink instead of the floor drain...
Thank you so much for your input, I really do appreciate it!
I am in the process of relocating the laundry basin sink in my basement and would like to work more horizontally because I only have about 18" of drop from the heater outlet to the top (flood level) of the laundry basin sink. The bucket would surely eat up my available slope distance for proper drainage, and I would have to drain into the floor drain. Not to say that is a bad thing. Just trying to consider all aspects...
Maybe I could find something that could be conveniently oriented in the horizontal (slight drain slope) orientation and would work within my tight height constraints to still hit the sink instead of the floor drain...
Thank you so much for your input, I really do appreciate it!
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