Why aren't remodel plates usually installed with initial installation?

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eagle4x

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The backer/tile for my shower not installed yet.

Because there would not be enough access even with 6" diameter hole in backer/tile for valve and limited space in the access door to replace it if ever needed, I asked a friend who is a licensed plumber for his suggestions. He said to install a remodeling/repair plate.

I went to a local plumbing supply store and found a Moen brand and put my valve cover on top of it. With dimensions of 13.5" by 9", it would give enough access to replace the valve.

I've read posts online with people saying there's not enough clearance to remove the valve after the tile installed, so why isn't installing a remodeling/repair plate not more of a general practice by tile installers when tile first installed?

valve_remodeling_plate.jpeg
 

breplum

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They are kind of ugly and completely unnecessary if you use an "A" brand who will be around and supported and even have aftermarket parts.
Rule #1. Use major mfrs who've stood the test of time. Though, sadly, they all get bought eventually and aren't run by the founders any longer.
Rule #2. Only install valves with integral stops
Rule #3. Avoid exterior wall installations.
 

eagle4x

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They are kind of ugly and completely unnecessary if you use an "A" brand who will be around and supported and even have aftermarket parts.
Rule #1. Use major mfrs who've stood the test of time. Though, sadly, they all get bought eventually and aren't run by the founders any longer.
Rule #2. Only install valves with integral stops
Rule #3. Avoid exterior wall installations.

The reason I purchased the Glacier Bay valve is because the handle on it matches the faucets on my tub and sink. From online research handles between brands aren't interchangeable, therefore, that's why:

1) I haven't upgraded to a better quality valve.
2) I'm considering installing a repair plate in case the valve ever needs replacing.

I spent over $1,000 on the tile so I don't want to take any chances damaging it and the significant amount of time cutting it if the valve ever needs to be replaced when only a remodeling plate that costs about $50 could of been installed.

As shown in the pic, my valve has integral stops.

valve_1.jpeg
 

eagle4x

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What's the idea with the Ditra on the walls?

Cheers, Wayne

The studs and some blocking were not plumb so that's why the ditra. However, since the pic taken, I've removed most of it and sistered some studs on the wall.
 

Reach4

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If you have a closet on the other side of the wall, people will often cut an access port for the back side.
 

breplum

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Valves need to be firmly supported with backing block/Holdrite Sturdibracket or equal.
Buy five or six replacement cartridges now, so you'll always have a spare.
 

eagle4x

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If you have a closet on the other side of the wall, people will often cut an access port for the back side.
There is an access panel from behind the valve...the white panel in the pic. However, I wasn't able to center it behind the valve because some studs where in the way. The panel is located in a small hallway closet so there's limited access to reach the valve.
 

eagle4x

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They are kind of ugly and completely unnecessary if you use an "A" brand who will be around and supported and even have aftermarket parts.
Rule #1. Use major mfrs who've stood the test of time. Though, sadly, they all get bought eventually and aren't run by the founders any longer.
Rule #2. Only install valves with integral stops
Rule #3. Avoid exterior wall installations.
Someone told me that even though that my valve is not an "A", that the only part can fail in the valve is the cartridge. Is that correct?
 

hj

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Some faucets DO have a version of remodel plates. Delta has a "cross shaped one" and also a larger round backup plate that fits behind the regular round one.
 
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