What did I do wrong installing my new old stock pump

[William Tafe]

Hello,

I purchased a new old stock 1hp Aermotor pump and installed it. I am using this as a booster pump and for lawn irrigation. Because I'm at the top of a hill, my existing water pressure is an abysmal ~30 psi. I did crank up the cutoff pressure to about 70PSI but I believed the pump could handle it as the old one did flawlessly for years before killing itself after a pressure dropout (water loss) and running continuously while I was out of the house.

The only other thing I can think I did wrong was cap off the drive pipe as I assumed I only needed to pipe the inlet port we have city water coming in.

Below you can see a video of the noises it's making after about 3 weeks in service, it did not sound at all like this after install.

Apologies as the video is a tad loud.

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1...?key=cEpfRjNuazQycTR2VUc1S3RSSk9MTXU5YTVpUjZB

 

[Fitter30]

Really need model of the pump. Was the pipe sizes reduced ? Have you checked the date code on the motor its a possibility that its a bearing failure from sitting for a long time from bearing corrosion.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[William Tafe]

Sorry. Aermotor HNAS-100. Looks like 2003 from the date code but the stickers look fairly new.

The more I read it seems like I should have installed a shallow well injector instead of piping directly to the deep well ports. I'm curious if I've done permanent damage or would this fix my problem.

Inlet was reduced from 1.25" to 3/4". Outlet was reduced from 1" to 3/4"

 

[Valveman]

Can't see the front of the pump? But if it has two holes on the front you will need the ejector before attaching to the incoming line.

 

[William Tafe]

If I only installed piping to the top hole, would that cause permanent damage? I will order an ejector.

 

[Fitter30]

Pump is for shallow and deep water and their pump charts go by depth and gpm so the performance is way off the charts. Since water is not running out of the pump the pump shaft seal is still holding. Motor has a fan and motor might just need bearings. Motor repair or a pump shop can help you out.

 

[Valveman]

It needs an ejector pack bolted to the two holes on the front to convert them to the one suction pipe you need. It shouldn't have hurt anything to pipe to only the top hole. But it won't build much pressure that way. And if it kept running and couldn't build enough pressure to shut off, it might have gotten hot and hurt the pump.

 

[William Tafe]

Thanks valveman. I'll install the ejector and hopefully that'll solve it. If it ends up being the bearings, it doesn't look too difficult to replace them. Just annoying.

 

[Fitter30]

The pump has to come apart. Do to the age gaskets and shaft seal might be needed. If you decide to fix it yourself when reassembling use crisco cooking grease on the rubber parts of the seal that way there some lube on the shaft.
bearing numbers should be on the motor tag.

 

[William Tafe]

Sorry to bump, but I finally have time to look at this and unfortunately tried taking the pump head off the motor and it just will not come off no matter the twisting, jerking, or prying I do. It appears there's an gasket of sorts lining the intake port.

Any tips on getting a stubborn pump head off?

 

[Valveman]

Did you remove the impeller first?

 

[William Tafe]

@valveman Thanks for replying. I can't get the cast iron head off much less the impeller inside. Unless they're supposed to come off together. I can't see how I could disengage the impeller prior to removal or the cast iron part.

Will keep trying but I'm afraid my poking and prying will end up baking something and I feel i'm doing something wrong.

 

[Valveman]

Yeah you have to get the pump case off before you can get to the impeller. Try a rubber mallet and make sure you have all the bolts removed first.