Dis360
Member
I read the part about storing the pump in water or filling it with water from the bottom when it's time to use it. Should I be storing my pump itself in water until I drop it back down the well. I plan on dropping it back in today.
Are you asking if you should store the pump in water for the next several hours? No. I think that storing the motor (which could be attached to the "wet end") in water thing would be for years, not even weeks. If you are asking about the just the wet (non-motor) end, I don't think that is ever needed, even for years.I read the part about storing the pump in water or filling it with water from the bottom when it's time to use it. Should I be storing my pump itself in water until I drop it back down the well. I plan on dropping it back in today.
you intend to open the motor, and top up with distilled water?
I have never handled a pump motor, and this topping up with water is something that is not typically discussed. However Valveman has a lot of experience with pumps and motors.Is it beneficial that I add water to the motor before dropping it in? If so I will do it (and document it). Does this help with cooling until the motor gets water logged by itself?
Is the new motor the same as the old? See what the weight difference is.
flow inducer sleeve. shroudThat 4" white drain pipe works good. Can't get the green in thin wall anymore.
They come filled with water mixed with a non-toxic antifreeze from the factory.
Oooh... found this: https://franklinwater.com/more/service/aim-manual/motor-application/all-motors/page-3/ says
When the storage temperature does not exceed 100 °F (37 °C), storage time should be limited to two years. Where temperatures reach 100° to 130 °F, storage time should be limited to one year.
"If the lowest check valve is more than 30 feet above the standing (lowest static) water level, or a lower check valve leaks and the check valve above holds, a vacuum is created in the discharge piping. On the next pump start, water moving at very high velocity fills the void and strikes the closed check valve and the stationary water in the pipe above it, causing a hydraulic shock. This shock can split pipes, break joints and damage the pump and/or motor."
Flush out the black chunks of rust and fill with distilled water. You don't need glycol unless it is going to be left in freezing conditions before installation.
Just to confirm, I'm good with just 1 check valve and it can be in the pump?View attachment 73105
The inducer sleeve did not need to encase the entire pump but only needed to extend above the pump's water inlet screen. Because water will be drawn through the inlet screen, all water to the pump will be forced to enter from the bottom of the sleeve which will ensure constant water flow across the electric motor to keep it cooled.
Not that I'm aware of other than it may have been more fiddly making allowances for the safety rope. Some air may remain trapped for some time above the pump inlet screen, but I anticipate the air will eventually be drawn through the pump.any downside to having it extended up the pump like that?
I think those screws were to try to center the motor/pump in the shroud.Most do not utilize screw holes but rely on gear clamp(s) to fasten it securely, with the tape wrap to seal the openings.
This is awkward, but...
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