Well pump pressure gets high wont stop

[Dem]

My well pump started leaking water yesterday from the release valve. A lot. I changed the valve. But now the pressure is building to point where it's at max of the gauge. And then the release valve starts releasing pressure. Can anyone help me figure why the pressure won't stop. What happened from
Me changing valve and restarting that it seems another issue has surfaced. Trying to fix myself

I appreciate all responses and guidance. I am really lost thought I fixed the leak and now am scared the pressure building will blow the tank up

 

[Dem]

Why before the pressure didn't build like this.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Reach4]

Probably a bad pressure switch or the nipple to the pressure switch is clogged. Might as well replace them both, or at least clean the nipple.

 

[Dem]

Will do that today. Thank you. Are these basic parts I can find at hardware store ?

 

[Craigpump]

Homeless Depot or Blowes will have what you need. Should replace the pressure release valve also.

 

[Dem]

I changed the valve first thought that was what was broken. I guess I am working backwards I appreciate the help everyone. Really glad I found this group.

 

[Dem]

Forgot to ask. The pressure switch is there only 1 kind or should I take details of what mine has.

 

[Reach4]

You could tell us about your pump and pressure tank, or post a picture. In particular, how big is your pressure tank, or what is the model number?

Forgot to ask. The pressure switch is there only 1 kind or should I take details of what mine has.

They come usually in 40/60 PSI or 30/50 PSI. There are other pressure variations, but those two are the common choices. Presuming your pressure was reaching 70 PSI or more, I would opt for the 40/60. That means that pump will turn on when the pressure drops down to 40 and will turn off when the pressure rises to 60. There is a good chance that your current switch is a 30/50. But your pump appears to a have proven that it can build a lot of pressure. Most such switches are adjustable, but you probably don't want to get into that unless there is a reason.

If you get such a switch, you should adjust the air precharge to maybe 37 PSI with your jet pump. With a submersible pump, you would set the precharge to 38, but jet pumps are a little slower to start than submersible pumps. If you found that you got a little pressure hiccup when the pump started, you could drop that to 36. Air precharge is only measured or changed when the water pressure is zero. You use a tire pressure gauge and a tire pump.

Some pressure switches will latch off if the water pressure falls a lot below the cut-on pressure. The intention is that shuts off the water if the well runs dry. That is foolproof, but it is a cheap option. There would be a lever that you have to hold to get the pump going again. You might have to operate that lever after a power failure, and you might not want that chore. If there is no concern that the well would run dry, then you would not want that feature.

 

[Boycedrilling]

Spend the extra few dollars and get a Square D switch, not a Chinese POC.

 

[Dem]

 

[Dem]

 

[Dem]

Thanks for all the help. When I get the new switch will it be preset to the high and low?

 

[Reach4]

Thanks for all the help. When I get the new switch will it be preset to the high and low?

Yes.

Your photo was not what I expected. Based on that photo, I suspect that you have a submersible pump, and that the pump is down the well.

I cannot read the pressure on your pressure gauge. Does it say 63 PSI??? Certainly the gauge in the photo is not maxed out.

That manifold (like a pipe with many holes) that the pressure gauge, relief valve, pressure switch, and drain valve are on is called a "tank tee".

Pressure relief valves used on tank tees are usually preset to 75 or 100 PSI. If your relief valve is still releasing at 63 PSI, that makes craigpump's suggestion to replace that relief valve particularly important.

That Well-X-Trol WX-202 is a quality pressure tank. The overpressures are not good for it, so that is another reason to get this fixed soon. That is not a large tank. It is suitable for a 5 GPM pump. http://www.amtrol.com/media/documents/wellxtrol/MC7025_04_14_WXTsizingCard.pdf

That 30 PSI on the pressure tank label is not significant for you. That was only the precharge air pressure the unit shipped with, and the installer adjusted it for you.

 

[Dem]

Yes.

Your photo was not what I expected. Based on that photo, I suspect that you have a submersible pump, and that the pump is down the well.

I cannot read the pressure on your pressure gauge. Does it say 63 PSI??? Certainly the gauge in the photo is not maxed out.

That manifold (like a pipe with many holes) that the pressure gauge, relief valve, pressure switch, and drain valve are on is called a "tank tee".

Pressure relief valves used on tank tees are usually preset to 75 or 100 PSI. If your relief valve is still releasing at 63 PSI, that makes craigpump's suggestion to replace that relief valve particularly important.

That Well-X-Trol WX-202 is a quality pressure tank. The overpressures are not good for it, so that is another reason to get this fixed soon. That is not a large tank. It is suitable for a 5 GPM pump. http://www.amtrol.com/media/documents/wellxtrol/MC7025_04_14_WXTsizingCard.pdf

That 30 PSI on the pressure tank label is not significant for you. That was only the precharge air pressure the unit shipped with, and the installer adjusted it for you.

Do you expect changing the switch will fix it. I am heading to hardware store in hour anything else I should get

 

[Reach4]

Pressure relief valve!

 

[Dem]

Thank you REACH 4 the pressure switch change fixed it. I also changed the relief valve earlier. And adjusted the precharge as you stated. It's working perfect. And we have water again in our home. Thank you