Well point newbie

[Stevenb]

I am going to attempt to sink a wellpoint in backyard to use to water my large garden and fruit trees. I live on the eastern shore of maryland (flat and low!). The USGS has a water table report at a location 10 miles away, indicating water is anywhere from 5 to 9 feet down. http://md.water.usgs.gov/groundwate...ter_table/counties/wicomico/index.html#wicg20
I figured I am another 6 to 8 feet higher. And I dug a hole with post hole diggers 7 feet down...and it's all sand so far (but that may be fill for the lot).
I expect sandy loam further down.

Here are my questions:
1) I 've read several ideas on how to tell when to stop digging (I'm going to dig this winter, we don't get much freeze). What's the best way to determine the well point is the optimum depth?
2) This is the well point (2") I am thinking to buy:
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200321309_200321309
Any comments?
3)Do I put the filter in when I hammer the point or later?
Can I switch the filter out later if the one I choose doesn't work.
What filter do you suggest?
4) Is it ridiculous to think I could have a both a submersible electric pump and a hand pump or wind-driven (into a cistern storage) associated with the same well?

This a fantastic site. Thanks in advance for any help or advice!
Steven

 

[Mike Swearingen]

Steven,
Down here on the Albemarle Sound in NC, we use 1.25" points and 1.25" galvanized pipe for shallow wells ("shallow" defined as no more than 25' from tip of point to surface pump location).
You need to contact your local Health Department for guidance on well depths in your immediate area (and to inquire about a well permit for one thing).
We hit water at 5' or less (in this drought). I just had a new shallow well put down with a 5' point and two five-foot 1.25" galvanized joints in a 3' deep pit, making it an 18' shallow well with another 6' or so over to the pump location.
Here is some wells-and-pumps info that may help you:
www.IrrigationTutorials.com
www.peekspump.com
Mike

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Stevenb]

Rancher: Thanks for catching that review rating. I missed that.

Mike: Albemarle Sound! I've dug 2 foot deep foundation footers in Kitty Hawk, and had to wait until low tide to lay masonry block because of the water table!
But so far on those sites you provided I can't find answers to my questions (but the irrigation site will be useful later).
When you sank your point, how did you know when to stop going deeper?
Did you know you hit water by dropping a string down to see if it was wet?
Did you stop there or go a little deeper? Where did you buy your well point and hammer couplings...local? Is there an advantage to using a 1.25 point instead of a 2"? And did you drop a filter down the pipe after you sank it.

Thanks again guys, I 'll continue to study those sites you listed to see where I might have missed the info I need.

Steven

 

[Mike Swearingen]

Steven,
Our elevation back on the opposite western end of Albemarle Sound, fortunately, is a little higher than the Outer Banks. LOL
To answer your questions:
A. For a shallow well pump to work best, the shallow well needs to be 25' or less from the point tip to the pump. The typical shallow well here is "3 joints and a point", although my recent one is two joints and a point from the bottom of a 3' deep pit, because we have plenty of water at that level. The 1.25" galvanized pipe joints are 5' pre-threaded on both ends. (Use USA-made pipe, NOT that flimsy "Made In China" stuff.) Points come in different lengths, but I always use the 5' point.
B. When driving a point and pipe, you can look down the pipe to see when you've hit water. It wells up into the pipe. You may have to use a flashlight.
C. You want to get the point well down into the water table. The immediate water table level around the point will naturally draw down when you're running the pump and will fluctuate with the rain recharging. Here, we have thin (less than 1 foot) layers of clay mixed with sand layers of several feet.
When driving the well, we try to "feel" a clay resistance, so that we can end the point on top of one so that all or as much of the point as possible is in sand.
D. The best well drivers here are all home-made T-shaped drivers. I'm sure that you can rent or borrow one from a plumber or private owner, or use a sledge hammer, which is harder and slower. There is a T for the handles across the top, a large 6" or 8" X 6"-8" high piece of steel pipe filled with concrete with a steel plate on the bottom, with about a 5' guide pipe or rod that goes down into the point or pipe that you're driving. You can use a Schedule 80 heavy-duty black pipe coupling for driving, or you can use two regular galvanized couplings on both ends of a 6" X 1.25" nipple. The latter absorbs the driving shock better. When screwed on tightly, neither will allow thread damage, which is their purpose. I've used both and prefer the nipple type.
E. I don't understand your questions about a filter in the point or down in the well. No filter goes down in a well. A well point has holes and rolled stainless steel screen in it to filter the larger particles down in the well itself. You can add an above-ground in-line filter if necessary. You will need a hand pitcher pump to hand pump-off the initial mud and sand after you first drive the well, before hooking it up to the pump.
F. You should be able to get a well point, USA pipe and couplings, etc. from a local plumbing or building supply place. Don't forget to check with your local Health Department for the proper well pemit and inspection requirements.
After driving the point and each section, remove the driving coupling(s), wrap about 3-4 flat wraps of teflon tape (and add pipe dope) clockwise only as the threaded ends face you around the threads of the driven pipe and the next section, and really tighten on the good couplings. I use 18"-24" pipe wrenches...one for turning and the other for backup.
Cap the last well pipe off with a plugged T, and take-off the pipe to the pump from it.
If you need info on how to prime a pump, we can go into that later.
Good luck!
Mike

 

[Stevenb]

Absolutely terrific description.
Thanks so much. Now I feel confident enough to give it a shot.
I'll check in and let you know how I do.

Steven,
Willards, Maryland (poulation 900)...
right next to Ocean City Maryland (summer population quarter million)....
Great to be out in the country.

 

[Mike Swearingen]

Yes it is!
Been punched out of cities for more than 30 years! (Lived and worked in Dallas/Fort Worth,TX; Atlanta, GA; Columbia, SC, etc. Been here since 1976.)
We LOVE it out here in the hidden coastal boonies!
It is beautiful on Albemarle Sound, and the world really hasn't even discovered it yet. (13,300- population in this county alone, and only 4,500 in the county east of us toward the Outer Banks. LOL)
Nothing here but sparsely populated forest and farm land, and water, water, water (navigable creeks, rivers, lakes, sounds, etc.) everywhere.
Mike
www.albemarle-realty.com
www.unitedcountry.com
www.usamls.net/albemarlearea

 

[Speedbump]

Get yourself a Pitcher Pump. Every joint (5') test with the Pitcher Pump for water. If you have none, drive another joint. Test again. When you do get a stream coming, and it's not so good, drive another, that should do it. A string and weight will only tell you your in water, but not how much you will get, that's what the Hand Pump is for.

bob...

 

[Rancher]

It is beautiful on Albemarle Sound, and the world really hasn't even discovered it yet. (13,300- population in this county alone, and only 4,500 in the county east of us toward the Outer Banks. LOL)
Nothing here but sparsely populated forest and farm land, and water, water, water (navigable creeks, rivers, lakes, sounds, etc.) everywhere.

Mike, I'm moving to your county, but I'd like to move in next door to you with my peach and turquoise single wide mobile, so what exactly is your address?

Rancher

 

[Stevenb]

wellpoint Newbie - Mike, Speedbump, Rancher

Speedbump -
Thanks for that tip. I confirmed the Plumbing Supply place I lined up the rest of the stuff has that pitcher pump, and I'll use it as you suggest.
What method for priming that pump do you suggest, so as not to affect how you evaluate the amount of water. Prime it by pouring water down the pipe...and then after the prime plays out see what the ongoing flow is?

Mike - You mentioned a 3 foot pit. Why do you have that? I'm already about 7 feet down with a 6 inch wide exploration hole.
I just assumed priming a pump was filling up the line, screwing on the pump, and going for it...I'd appreciate any tips on how it's really done.

Rancher - I don't have to write much more than to suggest what everyone s thinking..."If he moves that trailer to Albemarle, the good news is he won't be here!"

 

[Speedbump]

There are two check valves in the pump. Put your hand over the end of the spout as you pour water in while working the handle. If you are in water, the handle will go up and down smoothly. If the handle wants to stay in the up position ofter a few strokes, there is no water there, just vacuum.

bob...

 

[Mike Swearingen]

Steven,
My Well Pit Purpose: The 3' X 3' pit is that depth so that I can just take-off straight from the galvanized T at the top of the last joint to go under my concrete house foundation. My pump is under my house (3' lighted crawlspace) because when I built the house, I didn't want a separate pumphouse and it was our only water source back then. The pit is also just wide enough to get down in to handle the driver T handle and an 18" backup pipe wrench. To keep from mudding up the pit, I use a 5-gallon plastic bucket for the pitcher pump discharge.
Priming A Pitcher Pump: If you have access to a working water hose (neighbor?), you can prime the pitcher pump with that or use a bucket.
Priming A Shallow Well Surface Pump: First you need an in-line 1.25" check valve near the pump on the suction (well) side to hold prime once you get it. To prime the pump after it is all connected, you will need a wrench for the (largest) plug on the pump head, a roll of teflon tape, and a gallon jug of drinking water.
Wrap the plug threads with 2-3 flat wraps of teflon tape clockwise only as the threaded end faces you.
Fill the pump head with water and plug-in (or turn on) the power to the pump. Quickly hand-tighten the plug in as hand-tight as you can. It will bubble and burp air and water around the plug as you tighten it, which is normal. Wait until you hear that the prime is picked up (the pump motor pitch will change), and tighten the plug on up with the wrench. Wait until the pump builds pressure until it cuts off.
If it doesn't pick up prime the first time, repeat the process, including new teflon tape on the plug, until it does. Good Luck!
Rancher,
It just so happens that there is a vacant half-acre Albemarle Sound waterfront lot (100' wide) right next door to me for sale for $275,000 right now. Unfortunately, our subdivision covenants and County zoning do not allow mobile homes or campers there. However, I do know of another vacant half-acre waterfront lot in another area of this County that does allow mobile homes. It's for sale for $295,000 (185' wide waterfront). I'm a real estate broker, and I'll be more than happy to help you. Bring your mobile home, your boat, and your money. LOL North Carolina surpassed Florida as the Number One East Coast retirement destination state this year, and we would love to have you.
Mike

 

[Speedbump]

North Carolina surpassed Florida as the Number One East Coast retirement destination state this year, and we would love to have you.

Mike, I'm going to try and send you around 3,000,000 retirees just as soon as I can talk them out of living here!

The driving here would greatly improve.

bob...

 

[Stevenb]

I think I get what your saying about priming a pitcher pump.
I'll wait until have the steel in the ground, and see if I get a stupid blank look on my face with the pump in hand.....before I ask more questions.

Thanks guys!

Send all the folks you want to Ocean City Maryland's island, just don't let anyone know about the nice quiet stretchs of farmland, marshland, creeks, good fishing, and solid neighbors, 15 minutes inland across the bridge.

Thanks Again,
Steven

 

[Mike Swearingen]

Well, I'm 65 now and I've learned everything that I've ever learned from my pro and DIYer friends for more than 50 years now...and I still have a "stupid blank look" on my face, if you ask my wife. ROFLMAO!
But I'm still having fun! Roll on! Merry Christmas, if I don't see you until then.
Mike
P.S. Steven, screw the pitcher pump on the threads tightly on the last joint of pipe, prime it by pouring water into the top of it, and pump away until you have removed the sandy, muddy water.