Under slab plumbing questions

[Adam00]

I own a 1950's 2 bed 1 bath house. Full basement with no out side access.
The city uses IPC 2015.
I have the great cast iron waist lines.

I have a kitchen sink, dish washer, and washing machine that feed a 1.5" cast iron pipe that clogs every 30 to 45 days. The only snake I'm able to get down the line is a 3/4 flat steel tape. The professionals have had no luck getting around the 1.5" 90* with anything. Only the supper heave duty drain cleaner works, but have only used it twice.

The basement has a floor drain that dose not work. It dose not drain any water and think it just drains under the slab as the bottom has some rock in it and has never smelled. I have never been able to get any of the gravel out.
From what I read replacing this drain and connecting it to the sewer is a bad idea. Is this correct?

I found the main waist line near the foundation and it's about 25" under the slab in clay. After adding a clean out / test port is there any reason not to add two 45* and bring the new pipes about 6 to 8" below the slab?

Under ground is shielded Fenrco coupler?
Above ground in Fernco coupler?
Would a sewer camera have any issues with 2" pvc piping?
Do I have to remove all the old under slab piping?

 

[Reach4]

After adding a clean out / test port is there any reason not to add two 45* and bring the new pipes about 6 to 8" below the slab?

No.

Under ground is shielded Fenrco coupler?
Above ground in Fernco coupler?

Above ground the more common shielded Fernco couplings are good. Those are not rated for underground. For underground, I would suggest posting what you want to connect to what, and somebody might have a recommendation.

With all of this work, I would use solid PVC pipe (double or triple rated) for the new stuff, rather than foamcore.

How extensive is your planned digging? If you ever get sewer backups during rainstorms in your area, consider converting to overhead sewers.

Do I have to remove all the old under slab piping?

No.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Adam00]

I was wrong. The drain is 2" cast iron where the kitchen and laundry is.

I would suggest posting what you want to connect to what, and somebody might have a recommendation.

4" pvc to 4" cast iron under ground.
4" pvc to 4" cast iron above ground.
2" pvc to 2" cast iron above ground.

With all of this work, I would use solid PVC pipe (double or triple rated) for the new stuff, rather than foamcore.

I was planning on using seclude 40 PVC. Are you saying I should think about going stronger?

If you ever get sewer backups during rainstorms in your area, consider converting to overhead sewers.

My house is at the top of a small hill. I have never had any sewer back ups from the street. The house below me dose not ether, but the ones below that do. I do get about 3 gallons of water around the foundation when we had 23" of rain over 4 days, but I did some grading to help stop that. Before I bought the house we checked the grade and my basement was about a 18" above the blacktop at the end of the street.

How extensive is your planned digging?

Foundation to 4" stack for the bathroom is 4.5'. I plan to Y off right before the 4" stack and going between 20' to get to where the kitchen sink / laundry is. I plan on putting my test T with in 12" of the foundation.
I have thought about adding the plumbing for a bath or half bath, but outside basement door it dose not add much value to the house.
I have thought about a "backwater", but don't think it's needed.

 

[Reach4]

I was planning on using seclude 40 PVC. Are you saying I should think about going stronger?

Schedule 40 is a size. ABS pipe and PVC DWV-only pipe are foamcore, and are up to the job. For those who prefer to spend a little more and have something stronger, there is solid PVC pipe that is rated for DWV and pressurized applications too. That is heavier (weight-- not thicker). Same fittings you would use for DWV-only PVC pipe.

 

[Adam00]

Schedule 40 is a size. ABS pipe and PVC DWV-only pipe are foamcore, and are up to the job. For those who prefer to spend a little more and have something stronger, there is solid PVC pipe that is rated for DWV and pressurized applications too. That is heavier (weight-- not thicker). Same fittings you would use for DWV-only PVC pipe.

Is using all seclude 40 PVC and fittings good to use?

 

[Reach4]

Is using all seclude 40 PVC and fittings good to use?

I may not understand.

If you are asking if it is OK to use schedule 40 pvc pressure elbows and tees, then no. They don't have enough radius. DWV fittings are more gradual and smooth, to allow flow with gravity, even with some solids in the flow.

 

[Adam00]

Did not read everything.

 

[Reach4]

DWV is for no pressure?
Seclude 40 holds 150+ PSI depending on he pipe size.

Seclude 40 PVC is what I should be using?

Schedule 40 is a size. It is not a pressure rating. If you are asking if foamcore DWV-rated pipe is good, yes. The great majority of people will use that or something weaker.

 

[Adam00]

OK. I under stand now.
Are you saying some people use the thin (about 1/8") wall sewer pipe under slabs?

 

[Jeff H Young]

OK. I under stand now.
Are you saying some people use the thin (about 1/8") wall sewer pipe under slabs?

I never use less than sch 40 and dont think sewer pipe is legal under or within the building. With PVC you can get foamcore sch4o or a heavier solid core pressure pipe that is stronger more like water pipe but aproved for dwv as well

 

[Adam00]

After lots of thinking and talking to the wife. I'm going to replace the main stack, run the kitchen waist line over head, and move the laundry room right next to the main stack. Only have to smash 4' of concrete, but I have to add a sink in the new laundry room.

If I come off the 4" stack with a 2" sanitary tee can I plumb the washer and sink with a single P trap. I see lots of pictures of this on google image.

If not can someone post a picture.