Switch over to PEX or not

[Jeff H Young]

Sure seems like a good time to upgrade to 3/4.

I would not use type M copper (red ink) for this purpose. It is thin.[/QUOTE

Yep the 1/2 inch is undersize. Id just leave it unless I was looking to do extensive work in which case Id evaluate more deeply . frankly I dont know 3/4 is big enough. 1 bath house he could run 3/4 but he hasent mentioned it could be 2 bath 3? My house is 3 baths we have 100 psi and Ive got 1 1/2 " pipe running from meter to house I didnt build it it was a modest but decent sized Tract home we bought in 2002. I never run less than a 1 inch on a small to average home. So when I see on these sites what people have back east Im always suprised but this stuff I guess common but not on stuff I work on .

 

[Sam M]

I have 3/4" coming out of my slab going into the meter in the basement(meter is in basement), then it drops down to 1/2" to feed the house. I have a 2.5 bath house, incoming water pressure of 120psi that is reduced to 50psi. We haven't noticed any issues with water flow and it has been like this for 20 years.

I will go the copper route, no better time to become more comfortable with sweating ball valves than the present. Also the spare copper I have is Type M for 1/2", I was under the impression that is sufficient for home water use? From my research it appears to be acceptable in PA and that is what was used for my HW install.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Jeff H Young]

When Im doing a copper installation on a home I use type L , I started using type L exclusively 20 years ago . Type M is legal and used quite a bit but its a common upgrade to use L .
I wouldnt think twice abou putting a small piece of type m in an open area, there is absoulutely no reason to worry about a few inches or one piece being M being in your home. Or even your water hater connection. those copper water flexes people use arent equal type L
If I was doing more work adding a bathroom , or opening walls up to remodel bathrooms etc. I would do that all with Type L also no matter how good everything worked a half inch line is undersize , Grossly undersized, It will work and work fine but there are reasons not to undersize.

 

[Sam M]

Thanks for the explanation! I had to add about 2 feet of type M on both hot and cold side of the HW and then I had to repair a section of near the shut off valve in question with type M because of a previous owner installing a shark bite that was actually pulling the main 3/4" pipe towards the connections, had me worried. All locations of the type M I used are in open location, clear as day.

Unless i replumb my whole house, 1/2" is staying.

I will report back how this works out, I won't be getting to it for another week. Luckily its not leaking enough to drip and I am always home thanks to Covid.

 

[Reach4]

A Sioux Chief 600-212PK repair coupling can be useful. You can get it longer, and cut to length. It can bridge gaps. It is the same ID as a regular coupler, but there is no dimple.

When soldering a valve, try to get in and get out. Solder one end first, and let the valve cool before doing the other side. That is to let the inside of the valve cool before you are heating it from the other side.

 

[Sam M]

Thanks for that. I appreciate all the advice, I feel a lot more comfortable now. Like I said, I put this valve on myself and was worried but once everything functioned correctly after the install, I thought I was in the clear for years....apparently not.

One last question. Should I solder the pipe to the male fitting first and then thread it into the back flow valve to reduce the chance of damaging the tape/compound?

 

[GOT2LEARN]

Copper vs PEX, hope this helps!

 

[Sam M]

Thanks for the video GOT2LEARN!

 

[Sam M]

I couldn't get the threaded fitting to budge, it's really in there. I ended up unsoldering the old valve, cleaned up the pipe and sweated on a new valve. Hope this one holds.

Thanks for all the help!

 

[DIYorBust]

I don't think you can do much better than a sweated valve at the main entrance.