Switch over to PEX or not

[Sam M]

About 2 months ago I replaced a shut off valve after the water meter with an American ball valve from Lowe's. The other day I noticed the valve has a very small weep out of the seam where the two halves of the valve come together during factory assembly. After I installed the valve I did read bad reviews on these valves and now I see why. I do not have a lot of copper left between the thread in piece that goes into the back flow valve and the shut off valve itself, so I will need to unthread it and get a new male fittings.

Being that this is the essentially the beginning of all the piping into the home (which is copper), would it be a good idea to start converting to PEX? I have plenty of copper pipe to get this repair done, but being a DIY'er, sweating the brass valves is not my favorite task as I am always afraid of burning up the valve. I have read some potential drinking water concerns with PEX due to potential leaching, but haven't really found any concrete information.

Cost wise, it would only be 20-30 more to grab all the PEX items I need to get this repair done.

 

[WorthFlorida]

For this repair stick with copper and use Shark-bite if you are uncomfortable sweating a valve. I don't like heat on the valves either. Shark bite is very good and never hear of problems with them. Just need to be sure after cutting the copper that there are no burrs at the cut.

If you have all copper and copper from the street, usually just before the water meter you'll see a ground clamp with a wire from the breaker panel. Sometimes, elsewhere in the home, the cold copper pipe might being used as a ground for another appliance. It was a common practice at one time. Introducing PEX or CPVC with copper may disconnect the ground. This is no longer code and most areas you need a ground rod outside as the only ground. Shark bite uses o rings to seal the fitting and it is possible you can lose the ground. If so run a jumper wire from both side of the shark bite. You may see a jumper wire at the meter.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Sam M]

Thanks for the advice. I do have a jumper wire between the meter but I also have a ground rod outside the house on the same wall as the breaker panel. I've considered using a shark bite, but still cautious on there longevity. It would make it easier in the future to replace the valve if this same issue happens again rather than cutting out the old and sweating in new.

 

[Reach4]

I do not have a lot of copper left between the thread in piece that goes into the back flow valve and the shut off valve itself, so I will need to unthread it and get a new male fittings.

Would a MNPT input ball valve simplify things for you?

 

[Sam M]

Would a MNPT input ball valve simplify things for you?

The issue isn't really removing the threaded piece of copper that goes into the back flow valve. I do not have much copper pipe left between my shut off valve and back flow valve, so I need to remove it to extend it anyway. I was trying to figure out a better way to put the valve on so that way in the future it would make it easier to replace which is why I thought of converting to PEX. I may just end up sweating a new valve on and hope for the best, I didn't fry the one there now, it just happens to be defective.

I could avoid sweating a valve by replacing it with a threaded valve, just would require more fittings to be added.

 

[Reach4]

I was trying to figure out a better way to put the valve on so that way in the future it would make it easier to replace which is why I thought of converting to PEX.

How does converting to PEX make it easier to replace a valve? Are you picturing putting a PEX fitting on the back flow valve, then a longer piece of pex on that, and a PEX in/out valve? So if you replace the valve again in the future, you will just cut the PEX shorter, and attach a new PEX in/out valve?

I can see that -- PEX is easier to cut than copper. A PEX connection is easier to make than compression connection on copper. Is that 3/4 copper, or what?

 

[Sam M]

How does converting to PEX make it easier to replace a valve? Are you picturing putting a PEX fitting on the back flow valve, then a longer piece of pex on that, and a PEX in/out valve? So if you replace the valve again in the future, you will just cut the PEX shorter, and attach a new PEX in/out valve?

I can see that -- PEX is easier to cut than copper. A PEX connection is easier to make than compression connection on copper.

That is my logic behind going to PEX. What are good brands of ball valves? Definitely don't want to be doing this again.

 

[Reach4]

Before shopping for that, are you planning to use PEX A with F1960 fittings, or F1807 fittings?

 

[Sam M]

F1807 if I go the PEX route. I will need to confirm first that the grounding rod outside my breaker panel is indeed for the whole house otherwise I will have to also reroute that or extend it.

 

[Reach4]

F1807 fittings are smaller, so you might want to upsize a notch on your line out of the meter (go from 3/4 in to 1 inch until you branch off). PEX is all the same size for the same nominal size, but that is also smaller ID than copper. Same OD.

 

[Sam M]

Currently the line coming out of the back flow valve drops immediately down to 1/2" so I would have to stick to that.

Is it possible to unsolder my existing valve and sweat the new one on? This way I may get away with not having to extend any piping.

 

[Reach4]

Currently the line coming out of the back flow valve drops immediately down to 1/2" so I would have to stick to that.

Is it possible to unsolder my existing valve and sweat the new one on? This way I may get away with not having to extend any piping.

A photo often helps people suggest solutions better.

 

[Jeff H Young]

Dont want to have to totaly rack my brain. What about you screw a nipple in bfv then screw on a ball valve then a male adapter next small piece of copper and a repair coupling Im assuming it buried underground ?ems a simple job whats the problem ? why PEX?

 

[Sam M]

Sorry for not uploading a picture, that would make things easier. Attached is a photo. Doing a threaded nipple wouldn't be a bad idea either, I just hope that the threaded piece doesn't give me issues as it's been there for 20 years.

This is not underground, very easy access. I am probably making this repair more complicated than it needs to be.

 

[Reach4]

Flow is from left to right.

Attached is a photo. Doing a threaded nipple wouldn't be a bad idea either, I just hope that the threaded piece doesn't give me issues as it's been there for 20 years.

Picture clarifies. Lots of choices.

If doing PEX, you could screw something like this into that 3/4 inch thread:

That one pictured connects to 1 inch PEX with clamp or ring. When screwing that in, using both PTFE tape plus pipe dope minimizes the chance of a leak.

When supplying a house, you don't want to reduce down to 1/2 inch.

 

[Sam M]

Correct, flow is left to right. It drops down directly to 1/2 out of the back flow and that is what feeds the house. Now that there is a visual, would it just be easier and more cost effective to stick with copper since I already have all the materials minus a fitting and valve? I have a lot of repair sleeves from prior projects. I only thought of doing PEX because this is the beginning of the house but may be overdoing it.

Also I have regular Oatey white pipe compound and the Oatey megaloc, I assume either will be fine with tape?

 

[Jeff H Young]

Thanks much clearer now! What you have looks great just replace valve with one thats good. I wouldnt put pex , copper is fine

 

[Sam M]

Can I just unsolder the old valve and sweat a new one on? I feel that if I cut it off on the left side I wouldn't have much left to work with to sweat a new one on. Or get another male threaded coupling and replace the whole section.

Also what are some good valves I can purchase? I've read a bunch of mixed reviews on a lot of them.

 

[Jeff H Young]

Nibco, Mueler, Red white, Pro flow (ferguson Brand) are all good pro flow probebly a step down but should be ok. Its in the open I wouldnt worry too much you got a bad one, I would have put that in myself. Just turn off water drain and remove union pull pipe down to get water out . cut pipe about an inch from right side unscrew male adapter throw all that away solder a little longer piece in the ball valve and male adapter,, Tape it dope it screw it in ,, now cut your right side again to exact length , fit prep and burn your done! Youll get it its a lot harder to write about it than do it you can solder so its easy

 

[Reach4]

Sure seems like a good time to upgrade to 3/4.

I would not use type M copper (red ink) for this purpose. It is thin.