Sump Pump Float Height

[Jbro4079]

So we bought a new build in June and we have a sump pump. The inlet pipes of the drain tile are 10” from top of basement slab to top of drain tile pipe. My question is, should I allow the tile pipes to fill before pumping or try to keep water below the inlets? If I go below the inlets it runs quite often right now as we are in a pretty wet area with a lot of clay and slow drainage and the pump float travel is not very much before activating the pump. Any advice would be appreciated as we are new to having a home with a sump pump.

 

[James Henry]

You can raise it to whatever height you want.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Reach4]

You can lengthen the tether by moving the cable in the clamp. Just make sure it will not hang up on something.

You might want to consider a battery powered alarm for if the level gets too high.

If you dangle the remotable Basement Watchdog alarm BWD-HWA sensor into the pit, will the humidity give a false positive? I don't know.

Remember to add that to your annual battery swap. 9V batteries are not my favorite.

Basement Watchdog Battery-Operated Water Alarm Sump Accessory BWD-HWA - The Home Depot

Use the Basement Watchdog Battery-Operated Water Alarm to detect leaks before costly water damage occurs. This alarm can detect as little as 1/32 in. of water and produces a loud 110 dB alarm that can

www.homedepot.com

 

[Tuttles Revenge]

I prefer to set the Pump float to activate just before the water level reaches the inlet. The less Ebb tide in the pipe the less sediment has a chance to build up.

 

[Oldyellr]

I have another sump pump question.

I replaced my pedestal sump pump 4-5 years ago with a submersible one. It works well, usually during long periods of heavy rainfall and during the spring thaw, like now. It hadn't run yet, but I was woken at 5 am by my water alarm because the sump had filled up and the pump had not kicked in. I shook the pipe which started the pump and it ran for a very long time while the weeping tile around the house emptied and the level dropped. I don't know why the pump didn't start, sticky switch or the float snagged by a dehumidifier drain hose. Whatever, today it's running fine, about 4 seconds every minute.

So here is my question. If I ever need to replace this pump (it's 1/2 HP 3000 GPM @ 10') would I be better off with with a tethered float switch or an external vertical float switch like I have now? My vertical float switch works on a differential level of 4" while a tethered float switch works with about twice that differential, which would double the run and interval time. Any pros and cons between the 2 types of switches? (My sewage pump has a tethered float switch, which works great.)

 

[Tuttles Revenge]

Keeping the pump running the longest period is best. So a float that is situated higher helps that.

 

[Oldyellr]

So a pump with a tethered float. That's what I thought. I wonder why they even make sump pumps with non-adjustable vertical float switches that only have a 4" differential.

 

[LLigetfa]

Tethered floats can be problematic if the pump wanders around in the pit and the float gets stuck. I add blocking so a submersible cannot wander around. At one time I made the mistake of placing large smooth stones around the pump to keep it from wandering but the stones rubbed and wore a hole in the motor casing. I've had several submersible pumps fail due to water getting into the motor so I've switched to using a pedestal pump with adjustable vertical float. I set the float to start the pump when the water reaches the top of the perimeter drain pipe which gives me a longer run cycle with less frequency.

 

[Gagecalman]

I've had excellent results using a HydroCheck HC6000 "Hi-Lo Sump Pump Controller" with a manual pump. No floats to hang up and no mechanical switches to go bad. There are two sensors so you can set the on/off height where it works best for your situation and to reduce short cycling.

 

[Reach4]

So a pump with a tethered float. That's what I thought. I wonder why they even make sump pumps with non-adjustable vertical float switches that only have a 4" differential.

I had thought that the pedestal pumps had more adjustment than that. I have never been around them, but I figured there would be an adjustable stop below the float and another above the float.

Actually, I guess there could be a fixed stop below, and just an adjustable one above.

 

[Oldyellr]

My previous pedestal sump pump had adjustable stops on the float rod, just like my original one. The Simer 3884 submersible pump I have now does not, it has a fixed differential of 3.5". There is/was also a 3994 model with a tethered switch and an 8" differential.

Back in the day all such pumps were controlled by floats on a rod with stops. My original sewage pump from the 1970s had a mechanical float switch actuated by a rod with adjustable stops that eventually became unreliable. But I do like the earlier suggestion to employ an electronic sensor system like the HydroCheck HC6000. There are similar, less expensive systems like that, but still cost more than a basic sump pump.