Softener System selection

[NCPABill]

Thank you for adding me. I've read and read, to the point that I think I know less now....

In any case, My water test results (university testing service) show that ph is 8.26, total dissolved solids are 754, total hardness CaCO3 is 180 mg/L - (11 grains per gallon), iron is .22 mg/L, manganese .024 mg/L, calcium 43.7 mg/L, magnesium 17.2 mg/L, and total alkalinity is 222.8 mg CaCO3 / L.

Real-life results are a sulphur smell and rust staining on fixtures. I have changed an anode rod, which helps short term, but is limited in efficacy. I would ideally install a system myself as I seem to understand things better when I go through the process. Cost is a factor, but I think I can afford to do this correctly. I do not have a meter, but would consider this system to be a 10 to 11 person system, depending on who is "home" at the time.

Any thoughts? Thank you for entertaining yet another "what system" question - again, I've read until I'm thoroughly confused.....

NCPABill

 

[Reach4]

Real-life results are a sulphur smell and rust staining on fixtures. I have changed an anode rod, which helps short term, but is limited in efficacy.

A softener won't help sulfur (H2S) smell.

A powered anode is better than aluminum+zinc in not generating H2S in the WH. I like the Ceranode unit because of the longer electrode, but it costs more. Even WH temperatures of 140 or more helps with that, but you should then have a tempering valve for burn prevention. What you do in the WH won't help with H2S generated before the WH. On the other hand, many iron filters also treat H2S too. There is more than one way to treat iron+H2S. H2O2 injection is more predictable I think. My iron+H2S backwashing filter works well for me, but that may be because my water has enough dissolved oxygen.

A better sanitizing of well and plumbing can keep H2S down longer. https://terrylove.com/forums/index....izing-extra-attention-to-4-inch-casing.65845/ is my well and plumbing sanitizing procedure. It is better to do in warmer weather. It calls for materials that can take a bit of time to accumulate. A warmer few days in PA November might be OK, but otherwise spring will make for more comfortable work will you expect to get a little wet.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[ditttohead]

Reach4 made an excellent recommendation, you mentioned you have 10 people in the house. Just want to confirm, that makes a big difference in the system design.

 

[NCPABill]

Reach4 made an excellent recommendation, you mentioned you have 10 people i the house. Just want to confirm, that makes a big difference in the system design.

Correct, 10 people. I'll begin investigating H2S2 systems. So much to learn.....!

 

[NCPABill]

I have consulted with a local water treatment company who is recommending a Charger Iron / Sulfur breaker and then a water softener. They seem knowledgeable, with a low pressure sales style. They spent time trying to get me to understand the system, and potential phasing of installation to spread out the costs. They did say that installation was available, but I have few reservations on that part of the process.

Does the recommendation of an Iron / Sulfur breaker and water softener seem to make sense?

Thanks for your thoughts.

 

[Skyjumper]

a couple years ago I battled sulfur smell in the hot water only. long story short, it was due to iron build up in the softener and hot water heater. once I cleaned the softener and flushed the hot water heater the sulfur smell went away and has not returned. I use resin cleaners to keep the softener clean.

I'll admit I don't fully understand the connection between iron and sulfur smell... I'm sure IRB and SRB have something to do with it... but the fact is getting rid of the iron by using resin cleaners in the softener got rid of the smell permanently.

since you don't have much iron, but enough to cause staining, I'd start by getting a good water softener and keeping it clean by using resing cleaners with every regeneration. there's several products & methods to do this, and its pretty basic. Iron filter are more work and more expense and probably not needed in your application unless iron control doesn't work.

 

[NCPABill]

skyjumper (et al) Thank you for your reply. I will proceed in that direction. I hope to be able to post back with the results - it seems to be the missing link in discussion forums!

Thanks again!

 

[ditttohead]

Is the sulfur smell on both the hot and cold or mainly the hot water?