Schedule 80 deep well pump barb?

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dven

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Just wondering if a schedule 80 barb at the pump discharge is a thing? If so, that would theoretically eliminate any potential SS to SS sealing issues or any SS to Brass corrosion issues. Is galvanic corrosion really an issue with a ss pump discharge and a brass barb?

Something along the lines of https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/schedule-80-straight-reducing-barb-x-male-thread-1.html is what I was wondering about.

The obvious downsides are not as many barbs as the metal (especially the long barbs) and not sure if it would stand up to the stresses of lifting/lowering the pump.

Thoughts?
 

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The barbs are too short and it is impossible to get the hose clamps tight enough on a plastic barb fitting. All you have to do to keep to dissimilar metals from eating away is to wrap the connection and a foot or so up the pipe with regular electric tape.
 

dven

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So, if I'm reading that right, you'd use ptfe as usual for the actual threads on the barb and THEN additionally wrap the pump discharge head + barb with another layer of electrical tape to prevent the corrosion? I'm assuming you'd only wrap the metal bits if you are using poly pipe for the drop.
 

Reach4

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Just wondering if a schedule 80 barb at the pump discharge is a thing? If so, that would theoretically eliminate any potential SS to SS sealing issues or any SS to Brass corrosion issues. Is galvanic corrosion really an issue with a ss pump discharge and a brass barb?
The Teflon tape or pipe dope would go on the threads. The electric tape goes over the outside of any metal pipe or fitting.

So stainless pump. Brass check valve. Stainless or brass barbed (insert) fitting.

Scotch 33+ electrical tape.
 

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Even galvanized screwed into brass or SS will last a long time if wrapped with electric tape. When we use to run a lot of pumps on galvanized pipe, if we forgot to wrap with tape we would be back in 6 months or a year to fix a hole in the galvanized pipe, right about the check valve. When wrapped with electric tape it would still look new 30 years later.
 

dven

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I'd have thought that the water running through the interior would be just as likely to cause corrosion - but from the inside. But guess not! Good to know about the wrapping trick!
 

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Electrolysis always eats out the threads on the outside of the steel pipe screwed into brass or Stainless. Doesn't seem to cause a problem on the inside of the pipe. I can take you to some I wrapped with tape 40 years ago and under the tape they look brand new.
 

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Interesting. I never heard about the electrical tape wrapping. I don't quite understand how it helps since the metals are still touching, but experience never lies.
 

Reach4

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Interesting. I never heard about the electrical tape wrapping. I don't quite understand how it helps since the metals are still touching, but experience never lies.
I think the process you are trying to prevent are metal ions and electrons traveling through conductive liquid ("electrolyte") from one metal to another. The insulating tape would make that path for ions and electrons much longer.
 
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Taylorjm

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I think the process you are trying to prevent are metal ions and electrons traveling through conductive liquid ("electrolyte") from one metal to another. The insulating tape would make that path for ions and electrons much longer.

But I guess I don't understand why wrapping the outside of a pipe with electrical tape would prevent that. Any type of galvanic corrosion seems like it would occur under the tape just the same as without the tape. The metals are still touching each other.
 

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I think Reach understands the chemistry much better than I do. I just know it works. I started doing that when I was a kid. Every pump I pulled had a hole in the galvanized pipe right above the check valve. Had electric tape in my hand from making the wire spice, and just wrapped the pipe with it after tightening the connection. 20-30 years later when I pulled those pumps again, the pipe was still like new. I haven't pulled many pumps in the last few years. But I fixed the pump at my sons house a couple years ago and forgot to tape it. 18 months later I was back to fix the hole in the pipe and made sure to wrap it with tape that time. :mad:
 

Taylorjm

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I think Reach understands the chemistry much better than I do. I just know it works. I started doing that when I was a kid. Every pump I pulled had a hole in the galvanized pipe right above the check valve. Had electric tape in my hand from making the wire spice, and just wrapped the pipe with it after tightening the connection. 20-30 years later when I pulled those pumps again, the pipe was still like new. I haven't pulled many pumps in the last few years. But I fixed the pump at my sons house a couple years ago and forgot to tape it. 18 months later I was back to fix the hole in the pipe and made sure to wrap it with tape that time. :mad:

So are you talking about pipe that is under water? Or above ground? I don't think it was really clear that it was a submersible pump unless I missed that part. When you were talking about pulling a pump, I thought you were replacing it, not physically pulling it from a well. Maybe that's my confusion because I was thinking you have a pump above ground and was wrapping the pipes in electrical tape?
 

Bannerman

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Taylorjm, quote from OP:
The obvious downsides are not as many barbs as the metal (especially the long barbs) and not sure if it would stand up to the stresses of lifting/lowering the pump.
 

Taylorjm

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Taylorjm, quote from OP:

The OP wasn't the one that talked about wrapping pipe in electrical tape. The person that mentioned doing that said " The electric tape goes over the outside of any metal pipe or fitting.". It wasn't clear if it was for under water, or above water. He made the statement, I inquired as to the specifics.
 

Bannerman

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Taylorjm,
not sure if it would stand up to the stresses of lifting/lowering the pump.

I don't think it was really clear that it was a submersible pump

I was responding to your comment that it wasn't clear that it was a submersible pump. The OP was concerned with stress on the plastic barbed fitting from lifting and lowering the pump which would only occur when using a submersible pump.
 

dven

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So the consensus would seem to be

1. SS Pump
2. Brass nipple (optional if decent pump with decent SS check valve?)
3. Brass Check Valve (optional if decent pump with decent SS check valve?)
4. Brass or SS (if using optional check valve) Barb

Make joints with standard teflon. Wrap all metal pieces above the pump with electrical tape.

Though this thread may contradict the electrical tape wrapping preventing the corrosion? https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/mixing-brass-and-stainless.64661/ Specifically posts #4, #7, & #9. Unclear if the corroded brass was wrapped.
 

Valveman

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Haven't heard from Craigpump in a while? Bet he wasn't wrapping those with tape because he thought brass and stainless would not corrode? Maybe he will chime in and let us know?
 
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