Replacing main valve on copper pipe against wall

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Mitchella

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I'm going to replace my main water valve, an old sweated straight multi-turn (gate?) valve 3/4" whos supply pipe comes up from the slab/floor. The pipe that goes to the valve that is tight against the block wall. the pipe continues from the valve up to the joists and has some wiggle room. The replacement valves are bigger, especially my 3/4" Apollo FIP fitting I could use. The original has a drain valve on the side but I'm not sure I need one on the new valve given a sink right there. I didn't know whether to try to bend slightly the pipe or cut it and bump it out a little w/ 45 deg fittings or adapt to PEX or what. I want to replace all 5 valves. I may at some point want to put a motorized valve actuator on the main valve so wasn't sure about providing room around the valve for that possibility. I can sweat a new valve or use Sharkbite or my threaded Apollo, etc. but wasn't sure of all the considerations. I attached a picture of the network, the main valve is bottom right green handle. it branches up to the laundry spigots, outside spigot (thru a T with a red hot side to choose cold or hot for outside) and behind the sink out of view is stub outs for the sink. Any advice and pros/cons will be appreciated and NEEDED..Thank you
 

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Mitchella

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Thank you, it took me a while to figure it out. I hope it shows the 5 valves including the main to be replaced. Like should I use a washer outlet box, etc. If I did it w/ PEX should it be on a plywood backing?
 

Breplum

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We typically use channel, ether shallow or deep, with channel clamps made for copper (hydrsorb/cushion clamps); would reroute the ABS to be out of the way. So, offsetting from the wall with 45s or 90s.
We don't solder at all anymore and use Viega ProPress.
A plumber can do this all in about two hours.
 
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