Replacing Gate Valves with ball Valves

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I have this old setup. What I'm wanting to do is replace the old gate valves with new ball valves. I realized though if I cut all the old gate valves and replace them there probably isn't going to be any pipe slack to put back together. In a situation like this, what is the best way to go about it?

P.S. How do we go about inserting pictures on this forum? What do I click on?
 

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* figured it out, thanks guys

20190414_154859.jpg
 

Cacher_Chick

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I would just redo all of it with new pipe and valves. I would also look at moving it over so that the dryer vent is not blocked, which will make is easier to clean.

Unkept dryer venting is one of the leading causes of residential fires in the U.S.
 

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Agree 100% with cacher chick, including vent. I would build it as a unit with PVC and then pop it all in one shot. Or you could screw around for days and spend way more $ for a Rube Goldberg display!
 

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Great advice. I'm not a plumber in any way so do I just cut the copper from the bottom and then attach some kind of bonding for the copper and pvc?
 

WorthFlorida

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Sharkbite has fittings for copper to PVC. However, most PVC ball valves are junk and freeze up. Go with a brass ball valve assembly unless PVC has a stainless steel ball. Is this city water or a well? With city water usually a filter is not needed, a well usually to trap sediment. If you want a cartridge filter there are models that with a built in shut offs but no bypass. For a whole house water main the cartridges needs to be changed about once a month. If not maintained they have a habit of growing nasty stuff inside of them.
 
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Sharkbite has fittings for copper to PVC. However, most PVC ball valves are junk and freeze up. Go with a brass ball valve assembly unless PVC has a stainless steel ball. Is this city water or a well? With city water usually a filter is not needed, a well usually to trap sediment. If you want a cartridge filter there are models that with a built in shut offs but no bypass. For a whole house water main the cartridges needs to be changed about once a month. If not maintained they have a habit of growing nasty stuff inside of them.

Wow, this is interesting. This is city water and I found out that this particular sediment trap is no longer sold by Sears. (sears water filter 3416, sediment removal type). This home does not have a backflow on the irrigation system and so maybe this was used in place? None the less, those valves on both sides are frozen shut or open and I'm not even sure if it's being used. If i don't need it, redoing the setup might be alot cheaper
 

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That gas valve is 3/4 and on both sides has threads. Could I just unscrew the one side then other and replace with the proper ball valve. That be a start. Is that the correct way of installing?
 

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If you are handy you could spend less than $100 buying a stick of copper pipe and some fittings along with a few new tools, and teach yourself how to sweat copper. There are a lot of "how-to" videos online, and with these small sizes, it's not rocket science.

I would check with your municipality about the requirements for vaccuum breakers or a backflow preventer. Running an irrigation system without is endangering your family and everyone else that is connected to the water supply.
 

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Here is a closer look at that valve with the new one I just purchased. I see how I would unscrew both ends, unscrew one way off then the other way. But when installing the new ball valve, how would I make sure both ends are screwed on tight?

20190421_165041.jpg
20190421_165054.jpg
 

Cacher_Chick

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Here is a closer look at that valve with the new one I just purchased. I see how I would unscrew both ends, unscrew one way off then the other way. But when installing the new ball valve, how would I make sure both ends are screwed on tight?

The threads go in opposing directions, so the only way is to cut the plastic piping (or "unsweat" the copper) and then repair it after the valve is in place.
 
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I was curious about the gate valve right above the sediment filter. If I were to saw it off, could I replace it with a ball valve that has compression fittings in its spot?
 

WorthFlorida

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Anyone on this forum can not recommend fixes or installation that is contrary to standard codes and unsafe practices.

Need a picture with all the insulation removed. From the last picture you posted it looks like the city water comes from the left and irrigation to the right. Where does the water enter the home? What are the pipes going down to the ground do? Is it just for support?

If this contraption only feeds your irrigation system take it all out. Between the two ends install a backflow preventer and a shutoff valve and properly anchor it all the the home siding.

Others on this post recommends to remove it all. Don’t go on the cheap. You’re in Texas and flooding is common. Without a back-flow, a flooded field, lost of power and city water system loses pressure, you turn on a faucet in the home and you can draw flood water into the home from the irrigation system. You don’t want to get dysentery. If it hasn’t happened in the past doesn’t mean it won’t happen in the future.

https://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/?SID=ab21752bc7f1f8342b251121c05cdeb3
 
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