Replacing gas valve in boiler

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JohnCT

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After the gas company made a leak repair outside my business, I can't get the pilot to light. I removed the pilot tube and still can't get any gas from the valve, so I guess the valve is bad. This is the one I have:

https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-VR...24&sr=1-1&keywords=honeywell+manual+gas+valve

I'd like to replace this with one with an automatic pilot. Is there a valve I can buy that will plumb in without changing any gas pipe?

John
 

JohnCT

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cant get pilot to light or hold? You may just have to crack the union and bleed out air

Can't get it to light.

There was an leak at the meter behind my shop several months ago, and the gas company shut it off and tagged it until they repaired it. They turned the gas back on but I didn't attempt to light the boiler until this week when the weather got colder (actually forgot about it), and I can't get a pilot flame now.

I followed the instructions and turned the valve to the off position for 5 minutes (then a couple of hours) before putting it into the pilot light position. The red pilot start button does depress, but there is no gas to ignite pilot flame. I removed the entire pilot tube from the valve in case there was an obstruction at the pilot orifice, but I can't it to light on the top of the valve at the pilot tube fitting either. Well, I can get a *tiny* flame that quickly peters out even when holding the pilot button.

Tell me more about cracking the union to bleed out air. There is about 20' of pipe between the meter and the valve. Are you referring to the union on the inlet pipe? I'm more of an oil burner guy and I know about bleeding the oil pump. My knowledge on gas is pretty much limited to replacing the thermocouple every 5 years or so and not feeding my brother chili...

Thanks.

John

Edit: According to the .pdf from Honeywell, there is an inlet pressure port right at the inlet connection that's capped by a hex nut. Is it a good or bad idea to crack this open to purge air?

Second Edit: Throwing caution into the wind, I closed the remote shutoff valve on the gas pipe on the side of the boiler and removed the port pressure cap on the Honeywell valve. When I turned the shutoff valve back on, there was no gas coming out of the inlet port of the Honeywell valve, so I guess the gas company has a problem. Waiting to hear back from them.
 
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Dana

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In most New England states the gas utility is responsible for re-lighting things whenever they interrupt gas service for working on the meters or lines. Is that not the case in CT?
 

JohnCT

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sounds like your gas meter is shut off. take a pic of it

It's a dual meter because there are two services. My rent is empty and the gas is off, and I can clearly see the side feeding my shop is on.

Edit: Giving this some more thought, I wonder if my rent was turned on instead of my side.. I'll check Monday LOL.

In most New England states the gas utility is responsible for re-lighting things whenever they interrupt gas service for working on the meters or lines. Is that not the case in CT?

Almost certainly for residential accounts, but perhaps not for commercial accounts (which I am).

I left a message and haven't heard back. I'll call them again Monday if I don't hear back. Fortunately, the weather has been cooperating thus far.

Thanks again.

John
 
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JohnCT

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Update: All is well. Turns out the gas meter behind my store was indeed turned on, but the valve on the *street* was turned off. Finally got them to come out yesterday and they turned on the gas at the street. Took quite a while to get the air to bleed out when trying to light the pilot (kept blowing out my lighter). When I finally got the pilot to light, I let the pilot run for about a couple of hours to make sure I got all the air out before turning the burner on.

This morning, it's 68 in my shop instead of 55. I'm kind of an oil burner guy but I learned a lot about gas with this problem. Thanks for the advice and replies guys.

John
 
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