Pump switch, too many choices!! Steer me.

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Glennhvac

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OK folks,
I have an old Square D 40-60 DPST model FSG2. There is no lever on it. I wanted to get a replacement just to have as my luck dictates it will fail Friday night on a holiday weekend. I think I have found what seems to be it's replacement (

9013FYG2J24)​

I just want to make sure as there seems to be a bewildering selection of pump switches that all seem to share the same general specs. The only numbers I could find on mine is FSG2.
 

Reach4

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The FSG units are rated for 2HP. The FYG units are rated for 1.5HP.
If the part number has a CP suffix, that stands for clamshell pack... BP means bulk packed, so is probably not going to come in a plastic package.
 

Valveman

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Here is a regular FSG2.

But if you are worried that the pressure switch will fail, your pump is cycling on and off too much. A failed pressure switch is just one of the first signs of a cycling problem. If you do not heed that warning the next thing to go will be the tank and pump. Everything in a pump systems is destroyed from the pump cycling on and off too much. Pick up a CSV1A at the following link while you are at it and solve your cycling problem, then you will never need a new pressure switch.

Here is a good explanation for you.

 

Glennhvac

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The FSG units are rated for 2HP. The FYG units are rated for 1.5HP.
If the part number has a CP suffix, that stands for clamshell pack... BP means bulk packed, so is probably not going to come in a plastic package.
Ah. I have no idea my pump HP but I guess I should find an FSG unit with the same specs.
 

Reach4

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You should reads the current on one of your pump power leads at the pressure switch. That can pretty much tell you what HP your pump is.

When buying a pressure switch, you want to know the pressure to get 30/60, 40/60, or what? They are adjustable, but you might as way buy one that comes set to what you want.
 

Glennhvac

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Replacing a pressure switch without addressing the reason it failed is repeating the same thing over and over and expecting different results.
Did you read my post? It has not failed. Contacts do get worn and pitted after decades and thousands of cycles however. I have seen on more than one occasion in fifty some years air conditioner contractors fail. often wedding together. I am not having a cycling problem.
 

Glennhvac

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You should reads the current on one of your pump power leads at the pressure switch. That can pretty much tell you what HP your pump is.

When buying a pressure switch, you want to know the pressure to get 30/60, 40/60, or what? They are adjustable, but you might as way buy one that comes set to what you want.
I found one SQ D with the same specs as my old one. Square D 40-60 DPST. Thanks
 

Valveman

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Did you read my post? It has not failed. Contacts do get worn and pitted after decades and thousands of cycles however. I have seen on more than one occasion in fifty some years air conditioner contractors fail. often wedding together. I am not having a cycling problem.
Cycling is the only thing that causes wear and pitting on pressure switch points. Any pump that cycles on and off while a shower is running has a cycling problem, so everybody has a cycling problem. Even pumps that last "decades" would still last longer if over those decades there were many thousands of cycles less on the pump and switch. Sorry, but someone asking about a pressure switch is a cue for me to try and help solve the problem instead of just fixing the symptom.
 

LLigetfa

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But if you are worried that the pressure switch will fail, your pump is cycling on and off too much. A failed pressure switch is just one of the first signs of a cycling problem.
Cycling is not the only cause of a pressure switch failure. Mine have never failed due to burnt/worn contacts. Mine fail from mineral deposit buildup under the diaphragm. I hoped one of your EPS99 switches might solve that problem but it too, failed. I now keep a spare.
 
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