Pressure cut on switch at zero psi?

Discussion in 'Pumps and Tanks Well Forum & Blog. Water is life.' started by TPHAM, Mar 9, 2019.

  1. TPHAM

    TPHAM New Member

    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2019
    Location:
    Florida
    Hi all,
    Hope you all can help me with my little problem. I replaced irrigation pressure tank and switch (40/60). I checked the pressure in the tank to make sure it's at 38 psi.

    Here's the problem, I observed the cut off switch is above 60 and climbing closed to 80 psi and then switched off. Next day, the pressure indicator shown 60 psi, I drained the tank, pressure gauge shown 60 psi and slowly drop to 40 psi and then IMMEDIATELY to Zero and then the pressure switch on.

    Is my pressure gauge faulty? I have a new one on hand and will replace.

    My concerns are cut off is in the 80s psi and cut on is at zero psi while the pressure switch is 40/60 (new Square D)

    Thanks for your time and I appreciate any advice you can give.

    Twin
     
  2. Midriller

    Midriller Member

    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2017
    Occupation:
    Well Driller #39-2603
    Location:
    Galesburg, Mi
    Your pressure switch settings are out of adjustment or the 1/4" nipple is plugged with corrosion at 38PSI your bladder will hit bottom and will lose all pressure immediately. What style presure switch do you have? A pic would help as square d has multiple switches. To me it sound like a plugged nipple as the low is way low and the high is way high.
     
    Last edited: Mar 9, 2019
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  4. Randy Sellers

    Randy Sellers Da"BOSS"

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    Highway line painter
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    28655
    That is exactly what mine did and I couldn't find the reason easily. Until I came to this forum these guys are very informative and knowledgeable . Anyway my pressure went up to 70 lb. This may sound crazy but try tapping on the brass T coming out of your holding tank. don't worry about the tank back primarily your gauge Maybe brass tube and your pressure switch is should be on a tube as well coming up off the tee smaller in diameter. Tap on that as well what happened to mine is it gets a lot of sediment up up in there it was pretty much plugged off and I was getting false readings I literally had to use a wire brush I've heard around once every month or two tap on the tubes so that the settlement can be loosened up and run through your system and get caught up in your filter
     
  5. cacher_chick

    cacher_chick Test, Don't Guess!

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    Test, Don't Guess!
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    Land of Cheese
    I pipe the pressure switch off the top of a 3-4 foot long section of vertical 3/4" pipe, so that sediment never causes a problem.
     
  6. Midriller

    Midriller Member

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    Nov 8, 2017
    Occupation:
    Well Driller #39-2603
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    Galesburg, Mi
    Seems Excessive but im sure it never plugs.

    Generally if you use Brass nipple instead of Galv. you will have less issues and keep the nipple as short as possible. If you have that much debris you should service your well!! We have issues in MI with Iron at 5-10PPM and Iron Bacteria. Any treatment, with the exception of Hyd. Peroxide injection or pellet droppers are post pressure tank. So this is a common issue.
     
  7. LLigetfa

    LLigetfa DIYer, not in the trades

    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2011
    Occupation:
    Retired
    Location:
    NW Ontario, Canada
    You can partially test it by comparing the reading with the air pressure (tire gauge) when the pressure is higher than the precharge. In fact, it is important to calibrate the two gauges to get the precharge and the pressure switch set correctly.

    Water pressure gauges often get damaged by light frost which can often happen in warmer climates where they sit outside or in unheated enclosures.
     
  8. TPHAM

    TPHAM New Member

    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2019
    Location:
    Florida
    Hi Midriller,
    I checked the nipple before installing the new pressure switch and it looks clean. I'll check again.

    Square D switch is from Lowes with catalog no. FSG2J24CP
    I'll try taking a photo tomorrow and upload it.

    Thanks for responding.
     
  9. TPHAM

    TPHAM New Member

    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2019
    Location:
    Florida
    Hi All,
    Issue resolved!
    Thank-you for all your response, I took your advice and checked the 1/4" connection and it was plugged up pretty good. Took a drill and cleared the opening. Removed existing pressure gauge and blew the line with compressed air. Installed the pressure switch, replaced new pressure gauge. Ran the system, cut-on is at 40 psi, cut-off is a little under 60 psi.

    Thanks again,

    Twin
     
  10. valveman

    valveman Cary Austin Staff Member

    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2006
    Occupation:
    Pump Controls Technician
    Location:
    Lubbock, Texas
    When pressure switches clog up regularly, some people put them on top of a 2'-3' piece of pipe to help keep the crud out.

    Pressure Switch on top.jpg
     
  11. TPHAM

    TPHAM New Member

    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2019
    Location:
    Florida
    I see, I'll replace the 1/4x1/2 lg nipple with something longer, the longest Lowes has is 6" long. This would also bring the switch a little higher off the ground.

    The crud is located at the bottom of the tee though and not in the 1/4" tubing.
     
  12. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

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    Sep 25, 2013
    Location:
    IL
    How about a photo showing the pressure switch, input to the pressure tank, and the pressure gauge.
     
  13. Midriller

    Midriller Member

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    Nov 8, 2017
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    Well Driller #39-2603
    Location:
    Galesburg, Mi
    This Photo makes me cringe......... Valves before a pressure switch are a no no, this person has issues because their tank is on a dead leg and the sediment from the well has no choice but go to the tank and never leave causing pressure switch and tank issues.
     
  14. Midriller

    Midriller Member

    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2017
    Occupation:
    Well Driller #39-2603
    Location:
    Galesburg, Mi
    This is the best plumbing solution to debris as the tank is able to move debris away from switch and tank when lower flow fixtures are running and pump is off. Then when the higher capacity pump kicks on it does not force debris back into switch and tank causing issues.
     

    Attached Files:

  15. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2013
    Location:
    IL
    That picture has a check valve that I don't think is needed. I expect that was not what you liked about that picture. Having that check valve would require a thermal expansion tank for the WH.

    Do you think that having the well on one side of a tank tee and the house water exit on the other side of the tank tee is better than teeing before the pressure tank? I kinda like the idea of teeing the house and pressure tank first, because there would only be one pipe to deal with if you change the pressure tank. But then the pressure tank often lasts 20 or 30 years, so that is not a big consideration. Certainly having a sediment drain valve at the low spot is a plus.
     
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2019
  16. valveman

    valveman Cary Austin Staff Member

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    Mar 15, 2006
    Occupation:
    Pump Controls Technician
    Location:
    Lubbock, Texas
    I agree there should be no cut off valve between the pump and pressure switch. But the pic you show has the filter on the house side, as it should be. But that won't help keep sediment out of the pressure switch. I prefer the set up you show, less the check valve, and then you can use a tall nipple to keep sediment out of the switch.
     
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