Pneumatic tank -- how best to plumb?

[tkeoki]

The directions for this tank state to plumb the incoming water on one side and the outgoing on the opposite side. Is there any advantage/disadvantage to plumbing it to just one side with a tank tee?

Thanks

 

[Valveman]

With a regular hydro pneumatic tank (no bladder) you want the water with the air charge to enter the tank from one side. That way only water comes out the other side and you don't get air blowing out your faucets.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[LLigetfa]

Agreed. The tank works as an air separator.

 

[tkeoki]

Ok, thanks -- I've seen a lot of tank tees with multiple ports to hook up pressure gauges, pressure control switch, and various other things, where could I find something like that for a straight setup?

 

[LLigetfa]

What are you using for an airmaker now? Often the checkvalve used has two small ports on it, one for the snifter and another that you Tee off to a pressure switch. Other arrangements make use of ports on the side or top of the tank.

 

[tkeoki]

The check valve with the snifter valve is right at the well head, which is about 10 ft from the well house in a cement caisson. My current tank uses a normal tee on the intake, and then on the outtake they have a steel 1 1/4" to 1/2" reducing bushing with a 1/2" tee and the air make-up valve on one end and the pressure control switch on the other end. I can't really reuse it as it's all rusted together.

 

[LLigetfa]

The CSV1A has a few extra ports on it.
http://www.cyclestopvalves.com/st-viewcat.php?cid=94

 

[tkeoki]

Yeah, I've been looking at integrating a cycle stop valve, I know there's a few issues I'd have to work out with using a pneumatic tank with one and a couple other site issues. I have a WSHP that currently uses this well for its water, that I've been meaning to convert to using a shallow well I have on my property (the shallow well (30" cement cased) currently only outputs 4-5 gpm).

This was a project I was going to do 4 or so years ago, but life got in the way and haven't been able to get the time. Integrating the cycle stop valve is part of the master plan, I just need things to settle down for a bit so I can find the time.

 

[Craigpump]

One little detail...those ports on the side are at different levels, you want to put the water in the higher port and take water out the lower.

 

[tkeoki]

A have a few additional questions:

1) can the pressure switch be installed up high on the tank in the air portion of the tank? Or is it better to be connected to a point that will have water?

2) The current plumbing from the well head to the well house (about 10' distance) is 1 1/4 galvanized piping. Attached is a picture of the well head. Where would be the best place to plumb in the new pipe? Should I replace the union and start from there or remove the nipple also before the union? Or can I leave the female part of the union and just use a new male part?

And with how rusted the galvanized threads are, what's the trick to unthreading them?

Thanks for all your help.