Plumbing advice post new kitchen sink installation

[Pra Chek]

Hello Everyone,

We are replacing our kitchen sink which is more deeper than existing one. This means that after the new sink is installed the position of insinkerator outlet to drain goes below the current position. I would suggestions on how I could connect the insinkerator outlet to drain. I tried to draw the current position and what might happen after new sink installation.

One advice I got so far is to try to cut the metal pipe to make it possible for insikerator outlet to go into the drain. I am hesitant to do this as am not sure if that is cleaner way to do this and also If I can cut with a hack saw that cuts metal.

Please advise.

Thanks,
Praveen

 

[Jeff H Young]

sure you can cut it with hack saw cut it about an inch above the solder joint . or cut it where it comes through wall about an inch or so from wall and go plastic w new p trap

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Reach4]

Does the new disposal put its output in the same place?

If you remove the two screws holding the discharge tube to the disposal, and loosen the nut on the trap, can you lift the discharge tube out?

I have never worked on one of those, so I don't know if something goes into the body of the disposal, or is only held on the surface.

If cutting something, how about a photo of the 3 inches or more where the pipe is going into the wall. In other words, show us a side view with the camera near the back wall. Maybe better would be a shot looking up from the bottom of the cabinet showing the wall and side of the disposal.

 

[Pra Chek]

@Reach4 I will be using the same disposal but the outlet will not be at same height as now because I am replacing existing sink with a newer one which has deeper tub. I am guessing the disposal outlet will come on the same side but a little lower so I have to do something to the soldered p-trap to put the output of disposal into it.

Yes, If I remove the two screws holding the discharge tube to the disposal, I can lift it out.

Please see the picture attached like you asked.

Appreciate your advice.

 

[Jeff H Young]

So if you cut the vertical copper it should work . you can either adapt it to plastic at the cut or buy a copper to copper mission coupling.
BTW I think the saddle tap should be on other side of p trap

 

[Reach4]

Your situation is much better than I had imagined.

What you have with the old disposer is not correct, because your RO unit is feeding on the wrong side of the trap.

I would put a trap adapter at the wall. That lets you use "slip joint" drain stuff. You can adjust and change things easily then.

You would cut the copper pipe maybe 2 inches from the wall. Then depending on your inclination and skills, you would solder ("sweat") on a copper trap adapter (best), or you would use a suitable shielded coupler (Fernco 3010-150 or Mission KT-150) to connect on a "spigot" 1.5 inch trap adapter. I am presuming your pipe at the wall is 1-5/8 inch OD. You should check that with a digital caliper.

You would also need to check if you would need to angle the trap adapter to the side to get the trap to not run into the disposal. You would get a plastic trap, and check the fit before proceeding.

 

[Jeff H Young]

Your situation is much better than I had imagined.

What you have with the old disposer is not correct, because your RO unit is feeding on the wrong side of the trap.

I would put a trap adapter at the wall. That lets you use "slip joint" drain stuff. You can adjust and change things easily then.

You would cut the copper pipe maybe 2 inches from the wall. Then depending on your inclination and skills, you would solder ("sweat") on a copper trap adapter (best), or you would use a suitable shielded coupler (Fernco 3010-150 or Mission KT-150) to connect on a "spigot" 1.5 inch trap adapter. I am presuming your pipe at the wall is 1-5/8 inch OD. You should check that with a digital caliper.

You would also need to check if you would need to angle the trap adapter to the side to get the trap to not run into the disposal. You would get a plastic trap, and check the fit before proceeding.

Chances are the sinks are not identical and only differances are the depth. Ha Ha a guy that needs help with a disposal and is using a hacksaw might not have a digital caliper or a set of micrometers handy. but he can do it and we can help ! All of these numbers confuse people I have all the sizes memorised in my head like 1.625 inches but many most dont worked in machine shop as a young man. Im trying to make it easy. I would cut the trap off at wall like rach 4 suggest wash it off real good out side , re plumb R/O drain . go to hardware store bring your trap to the hardware store and pick up pieces you need. as reach 4 listed . in addition plumbers putty and he might need a new saddle t to relocate to the tailpiece. hope its not much deeper as the R/O tie in is going to take up space.

 

[Pra Chek]

@Jeff H Young You are right, I do not have a digital caliper and I am doing this for first time in my life.

@Reach4 Thanks for responding.

Is it the black thin pipe in the picture that is incorrectly fed to the disposer?

I want to confirm the order of things you are suggesting

1. Cut the copper pipe maybe 2 inches from the wall.
2. use a suitable shielded coupler (Fernco 3010-150 or Mission KT-150)
   
3. Connect on a 1.5 inch spigot trap adapter(Is this right one? https://www.homedepot.com/p/NIBCO-1-1-2-in-PVC-DWV-Trap-Adapter-C480127HD112/100347086)
4. Then connect on a plastic p-trap with spigot on one end and other end to disposal (Is this right one? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-1-2-in-Plastic-P-Trap-C9704B/205153793)

Am I missing anything in the steps listed above?

I am willing to give up the RO unit if that reduces complexity , I did not purchase it, not sure how much it will be useful to me. It came along with the unit.

Thank you both for helping me,
Praveen