New guy, new home, old irrigation system

[Ace of Spades]

Hi everyone, just joined because I have some (read, a lot) questions concerning irrigation systems. Back story is just moved into a new house (circa 1967) which has been modernized and it has an irrigation system that was I am guessing installed in the 80's. There was a new 1.5 hp pump motor (rated 60 gal/Min 40 psi) Flotec FP5172 but not installed, system runs off a well on the property. So far what I have done is convert the pump to 120 volts (was on 240) replaced all inline valves because the later solenoids did not fit the valves (I have 4 zones) built a new manifold because I broke the old one trying to loosen the fittings, using schedule 40 pvc. Replaced the chewed up and broken wiring from the controller to the pump and to the starter relay using under ground sprinkler wiring.

Replaced the starter relay with a Hunter PSR-53 10 hp rated one (over kill) in the process of replacing the wiring from the relay to the pump using 20 amp UV 12/3 300volt. The controller wires I used 7 wire and 4 wire for the zones and relay for 2 extra zones and easier repairs later on if needed. I replaced the old Lawn Genie mechanical ratchet type controller with a new Rain bird 6000 OUT 6 zone even tho I only have 4 zones I might add on later.

Now comes the fun part, I have only located one sprinkler head close to the pump which I dug up and replaced with a rain bird 4 inch (same as what was there) The people we brought the house from put in a egress window and removed about 4 feet of pipe and one rotary paw sprinkler head which I do not know if they capped it off or what, the piece they took out shows a tee connection and self draining valves as well adding to the problem. That is one problem and the other is figuring out where the all the heads are. There is no valve wires to trace, so it's probably a case of turning it on zone by zone and see what pops up I guess.

Does every thing I have got set up sound OK? and just turning on the system won't cause any more damage IE bursting pipes and heads etc etc? Thanks for read and will be looking forward to any replies....cheers for now.

Some pics of the set up

 

[Reach4]

Does every thing I have got set up sound OK?

http://www.flotecpump.com/ResidentialProduct_fl_lg_sp_FP5172.aspx says that should have a 30 amp breaker and the wire to go with that.

How far down is the water?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Ace of Spades]

I pulled the black poly pipe out and it was about 30 feet long with about 25 feet being wet.

 

[Ace of Spades]

I down loaded the manual for the pump and it states....

Pump FP5172
Model
HP 1 - 1/2
Volts 115/230
Max Load Amp 19.9/9.9
Branch Fuse Rating Amp 20/15
AWG Min. Wire Size 10/14 (5.5/2)
Distance in Feet (Meters) From Motor to Supply
0 - 100
(0 - 30) 10/14 (5.5/2)
101 - 200
(31 - 61) 8/14 (8.4/2)
201 - 300
(62 - 91) 6/12 (14/3)
301 - 400
(91 - 122) 4/10 (21/5.5)
401 - 500
(123 - 152) 4/10 (21/5.5)

So it looks like I am good to go there even tho it is confusing that has lighter fuse and wiring for the 230 volts unless I am reading it wrong. I will also need to get a foot valve for the well intake pipe. I just picked up some 10/3 20 amp 300 volt flex wiring and 20 amp 250 volt plug for the pump to out let wiring.

 

[WorthFlorida]

The work looks nice and well thought out except the electric. Do wire in 220 volt to the motor. The motor will run cooler, more efficient thus lasting longer. The amperage on each leg will be half of the 120 volt connection. The rating plate for 120v @ 19.9 amps requires 10 gauge wire.

That 120 volt cord on the pump will not last, will generate a lot of heat (voltage drop) and may not be rated at 20 amp. Your AC outlet is not GFCI either.

You want direct wire. In your configuration and hard to get access to the pump. Remove the pump and connect a length of liquid tight flexible conduit. Connect with THHN stranded 14 gauge wire (for 220v) with the other end to be connected to a safety cut off switch after you put it back in its location. Besure to connect the green ground wire to the pump.

The galvanized pipe fittings should have pipe dope on the threads, especially the well side. It just takes a pin hole and you'll lose prime. Tape is good but pipe dope is better for iron pipe.