Need help with sprinkler wiring

[fhorta]

Hello. I just recently replaced orbit sprinkler solenoid due to wires on solenoid were broken. guess from being old. I rewired, I thought the same way it was but now as soon as I plug in the timer that sprinkler comes on...the solenoid activates.

It makes a bussing sound and gets pretty warm. The timer cycles all other stations properly but since that sprinkler stays on all the time there's not much pressure on other stations.

I tried other new solenoid in case of a defect but still the same.

For now, I put back old solenoid and pretty much cancelled it so other stations work right. Any ideas, suggestions...I'd greatly appreciate it. The solenoid is the exact same one with same voltage and every thing.

 

[Jay01]

Can you post pictures?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[fhorta]

Don't know if this helps. Right now I put back the old solenoid . Basically I had one of the wires from new solenoid to a yellow wire coming from the controller and the other solenoid wire going to the rest of the cluster of wires coming from the other solenoids. The common wire coming from the controller is white at the cluster.

 

[Irrigate1]

The O RING on the new solenoid my be missing or you may need to use the old o ring, i dont like thise Orbit valves

 

[WorthFlorida]

......the solenoid activates..... It makes a buzzing sound and gets pretty warm. The timer cycles all other stations properly but since that sprinkler stays on all the time there's not much pressure on other stations.

This zone at the controller/timer is putting out the 24vac (or more) when it should not. With the new solenoid and connected with it buzzing, disconnect the yellow wire at the controller. It should stop or turn off the zone. Some timers have a module that operate two or four zones. Some small units for residential homes are all integrated in the controller. If you have a spare zone move the yellow wire to it and reprogram the clock so the bad zone never operates.

 

[Magna111]

The problem, as you’ve described it, is at the clock, it’s sending power out when it shouldn’t. Like the last reply said, if you have additional room on the clock, just move the wire to that zone, put the new soledoid back in, and reprogram the clock to match.

 

[Magna111]

Also, those valves are not supposed to be installed below grade, they’re supposed to be above grade, at least 6” above the highest head.