Need help not sure if I screwed up

Users who are viewing this thread

Lordoftheflies

Active Member
Messages
368
Reaction score
32
Points
28
Location
NY
Need a little help please.

In the middle of replumbing the 2nd floor bath.........

Along the same wall will be the bath, toilet, and vanity.

4x2 pvc sanitary tee for the bath is lowest on the stack.
Above it is a 4x3 sanitary tee for the toilet.
Above that is where I think I screwed up - I didn't raise the 4x2 sanitary tee high enough.........

And quite a bit above that is the vent for the vanity (and tees into existing vent coming up from the 1st floor for the kitchen, sink, and bathtub.

Because the people who framed my house didn't measure, the main 4" stack is partially blocked by the 2x4 wall for the upstairs bath. Thus I thought I would get around the stud by using (2) 90's as pictured.

The 2" piping for the bath will be run under the floor joists (perpendicular to them). The 1.5" drain for the vanity will be in a wall I am building out from the existing wall to hide the stack. The toilet will be very close to the stack.

I believe I've got all my venting all lined up properly. The bath will have its own vent up into the ceiling and tied back into the stack. The toilet is vented by the stack and the vanity will tee in as described before.

So here are my questions:

1) In order to get my vanity drain at ~20" AFF (currently it is way too low at like 7"), should I just use (2) more 90s? Is this allowed?

2) Should I instead cap the existing screw-up and just cut in another sanitary tee above it? I will have to cut the 2" vertical vent pipe but that won't be an issue.

3) Can I instead cut both 90s out (I didn't do myself any favors as I only left exactly 1/2" of meat on the pipe for me to reattach anything else to) and use a 45 to bring the pipe higher and then another 45 to level it out?

4) Would putting the 45 be as if I had used a wye instead of a sanitary tee?

Also the reason why I didn't want to notch the wall studs is because they are supporting the top plate which is holding up the old cast iron stack.

Thanks.

Existing galvanized vent coming out of floor from 1st floor. AAV temporarily installed at the time of the snap.

2017-10-03 16.04.42.jpg


This is after I cut the galvanized and used a 2" no-hub fully banded connector to transition to pvc. Is this ok since this will only be a vent? I had to turn it downwards in order to be able to get under the joists.

2017-10-04 17.57.33.jpg


Here is how I ran it under the joists.

2017-10-08 16.47.13.jpg


Main stack the upper sanitary tee is for the vent.

2017-10-08 16.47.08.jpg


Here you can see the closet flange connection.

2017-10-08 16.51.16.jpg


More pics in a sec
 

Attachments

  • 2017-10-08 18.26.16.jpg
    2017-10-08 18.26.16.jpg
    66.6 KB · Views: 230
Last edited:

Lordoftheflies

Active Member
Messages
368
Reaction score
32
Points
28
Location
NY
You can see how I had to notch the bottom plates for the stack.

By the time I realized my mistake, it was too late to pull the 90s off. Smh.

2017-10-08 18.26.16.jpg


2017-10-08 18.26.18.jpg


Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.
 

Lordoftheflies

Active Member
Messages
368
Reaction score
32
Points
28
Location
NY
Here is the layout at the moment.
 

Attachments

  • Updated layout v9.pdf
    74.2 KB · Views: 296

Lordoftheflies

Active Member
Messages
368
Reaction score
32
Points
28
Location
NY
Ok I think I might have a solution -

1) Get one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Jones-Stephe...e=UTF8&qid=1507507764&sr=1-2&keywords=J44-150

2) Then drill out the two 90s at the sanitary tee.

3) Insert 1.5" pipe into sanitary tee, get a long sweep 90 for the transition to vertical, then use a 2" sanitary tee (with two 2"=>1.5" adapters), another straight piece that will be my vanity drain.

Sound like a plan?
 

Lordoftheflies

Active Member
Messages
368
Reaction score
32
Points
28
Location
NY
Do I need a long sweep 90 for the transition from vertical to horizontal or can I use a regular 90?
 
Last edited:

Lordoftheflies

Active Member
Messages
368
Reaction score
32
Points
28
Location
NY
Ok I got my pipe reamer and was able to fix it. Ended up using the 2" and replacing the 2"->1.5" adapter.

Also fixed the vent so there's no s-trap there in case condensation collects. Sloped downwards properly.

The aav is temporarily just pressed in so sewer gases don't come up.

2017-10-12 14.12.17.jpg


And yeah I messed up on the angle of the 2 90s hence the couplings. :D

2017-10-12 16.15.31.jpg
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,749
Reaction score
4,400
Points
113
Location
IL
That santee used as a vent in the upper left corner should have been turned the other way, but it is not going to matter. I don't know inspectors, but I am suspecting one would let that ride.
 

hj

Master Plumber
Messages
33,599
Reaction score
1,037
Points
113
Location
Cave Creek, Arizona
Website
www.terrylove.com
Ours WOULD NOT even though it is immaterial. There is no doubt that this is a DIY job. Lots of unnecessary fittings and pipe. And since you were installing a vent for the sink the two 90s would have been OK.
 

Lordoftheflies

Active Member
Messages
368
Reaction score
32
Points
28
Location
NY
Yes, a diy job for sure. However, I didn't know that for a vent the santee should be upside down?

Also, the extra fittings was due to the fact the stack is IN the 2x4 wall and I had to bend around it. I already had to notch the bottom plates so I didn't feel like notching the wall studs that are supporting the top plate that is holding up the cast iron part of the stack.......
 

Cacher_Chick

Test, Don't Guess!
Messages
5,458
Reaction score
213
Points
63
Location
Land of Cheese
Looks like the horizontal sections of vent may be below the minimum height. The vents must stay vertical until they are at least 6" above the flood rim of the highest fixture served, or 42" above the floor, whichever is higher.
 

Lordoftheflies

Active Member
Messages
368
Reaction score
32
Points
28
Location
NY
Thanks cacher. Just curious though because I don't have it tied to another fixture, does it still need to be 6" above the flood rim? It is tied to the vent coming out of the first floor (this bath is on the 2nd) so is this still a problem? The bathtub on the other side of the stack will have its own vent and the toilet is vented by the stack.
 

Lordoftheflies

Active Member
Messages
368
Reaction score
32
Points
28
Location
NY
a vent can run horizontal below the flood rim as long as you use drainage fittings, slope it towards the drain, and don't tie into another fixture vent until you bring it 6" above the flood rim of the higher fixture. When roughing in vessel sinks I usually bring the drain up to the side then run the trap arm to the sink center.
 

Lordoftheflies

Active Member
Messages
368
Reaction score
32
Points
28
Location
NY
Well I cut out and reused some parts and was able to raise the center of the horizontal pipe at 38" so I think I'm good.

The cabinet is 22 7/8", sink is 2 3/8", so I will adjust the legs so that the overall height is 32" AFF.

IMG_20171013_105228.jpg
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks