Looking to replace the water filter media myself. What filter media should I get?

[N1one]

My filter media is overdue for a change (about 9 years now) but I don't know what media to get or where to get it from. I just had my water tested with a sample taken while the filter and softener were bypassed. I like doing things myself and I think this is within my skill set.

I lost confidence in my previous water person after they recommended some wildly expensive services and replacements that were completely unnecessary. My current filter was also set up using my test results from before I bought the house. I took a sample after it had been filtered by the existing system. It seems like that would not give an accurate picture of what the water is directly from the well.

I've included my water test results and an image of my filter. It is a 2 cubic ft size tank. Also, I have a softener that was bypassed for this water test.

What do folks recommend for media and what is the best place to get that media from? Anything else I should replace since I'm taking things apart? O rings? Gaskets?

Thanks. Your advice is very much appreciated.

 

[Reach4]

What is the original media?

What is the purpose of that backwashing filter? Looking at your test report, those are things that I think a softener should be able to deal with.

Are you having symptoms when the filter and softener are not bypassed, and if so, what?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[N1one]

What is the original media?

What is the purpose of that backwashing filter? Looking at your test report, those are things that I think a softener should be able to deal with.

Are you having symptoms when the filter and softener are not bypassed, and if so, what?

Well, I was told by the water guy when I moved in that I needed a filter and a softener. There was a filter and softener when I moved in but they were both shot and leaking. I have been seeing more crud/deposits in my toilet and tub lately so I was assuming that the media in the filter needed to be replaced. In all fairness though, my softener was almost out of salt and after I refilled it, it seems to be better. I think.
I assume the backwashing filter is to remove the iron and manganese. I've learned that the softener will do that as well but maybe the water guy thought that it couldn't get it all? I'm no expert.

I don't know what media is currently in the filter. I recall the guy telling me they make a "custom" blend of medias. Is there a media that would be best for my needs?

I haven't tried bypassing the filter or softener individually to see how things look. I'll try to do that this weekend.


Thanks for your help.

 

[Reach4]

A backwashing filter before the softener can be aimed at different things. Simplest would be to remove sediment.
It could be to remove odors (H2S).

It could be to remove manganese (your most irritating contaminant listed in your test). That has a taste. But softeners can remove that. Same for iron. Some periodic treatment of the softener resin can get that going again to remove iron, and I would hope Mn.

Different media have different backwashing needs. You could have GAC (carbon) media, removes some odors.

So best for you? No clue.

What color is your crud-- rust color, black that is hard to remove, or black that brushes off?

Here is a way to use Iron Out crystals to treat your resin periodically to deal with iron. It may also be useful for a softener dealing with Mn. This is not an authoritative procedure, but it should be pretty good.

A softener is not the best way to deal with significant iron, but it can be economical or cash-flow positive.

1.Dissolve 1/4 to 1/2 cup of Iron Out crystals into maybe 1 or 2 gallons of warm water.(X1: option -- maybe up the dose) Pour this into the brine tank, possibly down the brine tube. Agitate if you can.
2. Let this sit for 2 hours to 2 weeks. (X2: option: move the salt aside if the salt is shallow to expose liquid, and pour the IO into the liquid.
3. Start a regeneration. Usually after backwash, the brine draw cycle starts. Get to brine draw however it happens. Let the brine get drawn until the the brine tank is almost drawn. (X2) Alternatively monitor the drain line with a TDS meter, and look for a big increase in TDS. At that point, stop the flow of water with the bypass valve. That will let the solution sit in contact with the resin.

4. Let the solution sit in the resin for a time. That time (X3) might be an hour or might be 4 hours.

5a alternative: With an electronic timer, the cycling will continue while the water is off. However since the water is blocked, the solution says in contact with the resin. Then do a full regeneration to get the solution all cleaned out.

5b alternative: If you have an electromechanical valve, you can unplug the softener, and the softener will hold in the midst of the BD cycle. After you turn the water on, brine draw will continue, and you can slowly let the brine+IO interact with the resin for maybe 30 minutes. Turn the power back on, and the regen will continue and complete. That will get more efficiency out of the solution.

Iron Out has an odor that bothers some more than others. I expect it to rinse out. But there has been a post or two that report the odor lingering. I have not run into lingering. I like the 152 ounce bottle of Iron Out powder. It does not spoil, so you can get multiple treatments from that bottle.

One more thing: consider well and plumbing sanitizing. https://terrylove.com/forums/index....izing-extra-attention-to-4-inch-casing.65845/ Warmer weather is coming, and warmer weather is nice for sanitizing.

 

[N1one]

Wow. That's a lot of info. I'm going to have to read through that a few times. I've run Iron Out through the softener a few times before but not with the soaking process you described. The film/deposit has been grey/black and wipes away easily which I think goes with what I've read about manganese. Our water doesn't taste great unless we run it through the brita. Thanks for all your help