Installing a basement washer drain to a 60” high, 3” horizontal pvc drain pipe

[wwhitney]

That would involve a lot of work getting the short cast iron section out I think.

Sure. But if you don't replace it, what is your plan to patch the hole? Is that easier than removing the short cast iron section? I guess you could instead cut it back, but cutting it is also difficult.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[PeteyD]

Sure. But if you don't replace it, what is your plan to patch the hole? Is that easier than removing the short cast iron section? I guess you could instead cut it back, but cutting it is also difficult.

Cheers, Wayne

Maybe a little silicone around the leaky connection?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[wwhitney]

Maybe a little silicone around the leaky connection?

Maybe, but you'd also have to cap the connection. So it depends on what you find when you pull the hose off.

If you're able to get the connector out and end up with just a hole in the cast iron, I guess a temporary solution could be to get another of those rubber couplings, one without an inner stop and sized for the cast iron, undo the rubber coupling above the hole for access, and slide the new rubber coupling over the hole.

Then if you add a trap and a standpipe for the laundry, it would at least be a lot better than the current laundry drain connection.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[PeteyD]

That sounds like a plan!

 

[PeteyD]

Yes, this is exactly what I want to do although tapping into the 2” pipe would be easier because there’s more give to it. Is an aav instead of venting to the outside?

I’ve read that “a washing machine pipes p-trap must be installed above the floor, at least 6" above but not more than 18" above”. Mine will definitely be more than 18” from the floor. How big of a problem is that?

 

[wwhitney]

I’ve read that “a washing machine pipes p-trap must be installed above the floor, at least 6" above but not more than 18" above”. Mine will definitely be more than 18” from the floor. How big of a problem is that?

That's a UPC requirement, not an IPC requirement. Both codes require the standpipe to be at least 18" long, I forget the upper limit(s) on standpipe length, but they won't be a problem for you.

 

[PeteyD]

That's a UPC requirement, not an IPC requirement. Both codes require the standpipe to be at least 18" long, I forget the upper limit(s) on standpipe length, but they won't be a problem for you.

Thanks for all the help. I’m planning on working on it tomorrow.

 

[PeteyD]

That's a UPC requirement, not an IPC requirement. Both codes require the standpipe to be at least 18" long, I forget the upper limit(s) on standpipe length, but they won't be a problem for you.

“The automatic clothes washer fixture drain shall connect to a branch drain or drainage stack a minimum of 3 inches (76 mm) in diameter”
So am I right in saying that I have to tap into the lower 3” horizontal and not the upper 2” horizontal? Or is it ok as long as that 2” connects to a 3” main?

 

[wwhitney]

Yeah, once the IPC washer standpipe drain joins another drain, it's supposed to be at least 3" after the juncture. So that would be an argument for tying into the 3" drain.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[PeteyD]

Yeah, once the IPC washer standpipe drain joins another drain, it's supposed to be at least 3" after the juncture. So that would be an argument for tying into the 3" drain.

Cheers, Wayne

Can I use

Yeah, once the IPC washer standpipe drain joins another drain, it's supposed to be at least 3" after the juncture. So that would be an argument for tying into the 3" drain.

Cheers, Wayne

Can I use those French shielded rubber couplings? The 3” pipe has no give at all.

 

[PeteyD]

Can I use


Can I use those Fernco shielded rubber couplings? The 3” pipe has no give at all.

 

[wwhitney]

Sure you can use Fernco couplings. About the only way to cut in a fitting between two fixed points is with two rubber couplings, the way the san-tee was cut into the fresh air inlet.

Except you effectively have a free end already on the 3" pipe, because it goes to that san-tee with the two rubber couplings. So you can carefully measure and cut out the section of the 3" pipe you need to (either on the vertical for a san-tee, or on the horizontal for a wye), then loosen the rubber couplings to remove the plastic pipe between the cut and the fresh air inlet. That should let you glue in your fitting and then make up the rubber couplings again.

[I'd be inclined to also replace the rubber couplings with shielded above ground couplings, although that may require replacing more plastic (the below grade rubber couplings are around 4" long or more, the above grade shielded couplings are 2-1/8"). Unless I expected to just demo everything out within a year and redo it properly, then I wouldn't worry about the rubber couplings right now.]

Cheers, Wayne

 

[PeteyD]

Sure you can use Fernco couplings. About the only way to cut in a fitting between two fixed points is with two rubber couplings, the way the san-tee was cut into the fresh air inlet.

Except you effectively have a free end already on the 3" pipe, because it goes to that san-tee with the two rubber couplings. So you can carefully measure and cut out the section of the 3" pipe you need to (either on the vertical for a san-tee, or on the horizontal for a wye), then loosen the rubber couplings to remove the plastic pipe between the cut and the fresh air inlet. That should let you glue in your fitting and then make up the rubber couplings again.

[I'd be inclined to also replace the rubber couplings with shielded above ground couplings, although that may require replacing more plastic (the below grade rubber couplings are around 4" long or more, the above grade shielded couplings are 2-1/8"). Unless I expected to just demo everything out within a year and redo it properly, then I wouldn't worry about the rubber couplings right now.]

Cheers, Wayne

Thanks Wayne!