Ideas for softener drain and vent

[Chulapol]

I would like to install a water softener in my basement. There is currently no drain opening in the basement. It does have a rough-in with a vent pipe coming down from the ceiling. The vertical drain pipe is very close to the cement wall and I don't know if it would be easy to cut or add a san-tee. I'm now thinking of using the cleanout area. Here are 2 ideas that I'm thinking about. Let me know if any of them would work (or none). If not, please give me some suggestions. Also about venting, would AAV be okay if I don't vent it up to the roof?

Please note, I didn't position the drain to the right because I plan to finish the basement later. To the right of cleanout, there would be a bathroom based on the location of rough-in.

Thank you in advance for your help,.

 

[Reach4]

I modified your picture. This would be a good application for an AAV I think. That would go where the upper yellow is.

For the bathroom considerations, it might be a good time to plan ahead for that.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Chulapol]

Thank you for updating the picture. To clarify, would the yellow part (red circle) be 90 degree sweeping tee? Would the purple part (blue circle) be AAV and I don't need to connect it to a vent pipe.

 

[Reach4]

Thank you for updating the picture. To clarify, would the yellow part (red circle) be 90 degree sweeping tee?

Yes. It is called a combo. Overkill IMO, but I don't make the rules.

Would the purple part (blue circle) be AAV and I don't need to connect it to a vent pipe.

Yes. Minimum of 4 inches above the trap arm, but higher is good.

You could tie not the vent when you do the bathroom in the future, or the bathroom could use an AAV. A bathroom is allowed to use an AAV also, but I think a real vent is better, especially with a toilet.

 

[Jeff H Young]

I like original plan 10 foot pipe a couple 90s tie the vent in cant get much easier same if you put a bathroom in its pretty easy to plumb it all right there. Thats the way I would do either or both! but if you want it even easier get the aav. no question which is better

 

[Chulapol]

Thank you for your suggestion. One of my neighbor also shared a picture with me of how an installer set up a drain for him (attached picture). Yes, it's missing an air-gap. But my question is that would this set up work? Would the drop shortly after p trap like this be a concern? It looks easy, but I also want to do it the right way in my house.

P.S. the main drain (vertical) is 4" and the p-trap drain is 2".

 

[Reach4]

It would work, but to be official, the pipe from above needs to be a vent and not carry drainage-- which seems highly unlikely.

 

[Reach4]

I like original plan 10 foot pipe a couple 90s tie the vent in cant get much easier same if you put a bathroom in its pretty easy to plumb it all right there.

That would be better, particularly if the bathroom venting plan could be integrated in.

 

[Chulapol]

In that case, it would look like this (attached pic), correct? I could either use AAV or tie to the vent, right.

That would be better, particularly if the bathroom venting plan could be integrated in.

I was thinking of using 45 degree wye to connect the top vent. 45 degree angel will connect to a drain vent and the other side (straight) will be capped for future vent connection for bathroom. Would that work?

 

[Reach4]

n that case, it would look like this (attached pic), correct? I could either use AAV or tie to the vent, right.

Yes.

I was thinking of using 45 degree wye to connect the top vent. 45 degree angel will connect to a drain vent and the other side (straight) will be capped for future vent connection for bathroom. Would that work?

When you cap the wye, use a piece of pipe and cap that. Then when it comes time to use the connection, cut the pipe just above the cap.

You could use right angles instead of 45. The connection up high could be an upside down santee. Maybe that makes running new pipes in the future easier.

Also clamp the standpipe to take any mechanical forces.

 

[Jeff H Young]

I was just refering to a few 90s as the ease of install certainly 45s are fine. You may concider that if/when bathroom is built the vent pipe will want to be hidden . For us in the trade or even those that have done extensive DIY, this job is a piece of cake. Not so for everyone , plus there are more than one way to approach this. you could just plumb the softener quick and easy and then when building out bathroom re-do what needs on the vent. or think ahead and have it all ready. I was thinking if you ran on 45 up the wall you would be having to fur around pipe later. I never run on a 45 verticaly unless its a short offset but no big deal whatever gets job dpone in way you like.

 

[Chulapol]

When you cap the wye, use a piece of pipe and cap that. Then when it comes time to use the connection, cut the pipe just above the cap.

Great suggestion!

I was just refering to a few 90s as the ease of install certainly 45s are fine. You may concider that if/when bathroom is built the vent pipe will want to be hidden . For us in the trade or even those that have done extensive DIY, this job is a piece of cake. Not so for everyone , plus there are more than one way to approach this. you could just plumb the softener quick and easy and then when building out bathroom re-do what needs on the vent. or think ahead and have it all ready. I was thinking if you ran on 45 up the wall you would be having to fur around pipe later. I never run on a 45 verticaly unless its a short offset but no big deal whatever gets job dpone in way you like.

That's good to know that it's not necessary for vertical 45s and I can use 90s. I just thought that it might make a vent flow better (instead of couple of 90s turns). It sounds like it doesn't really matter and I like the idea of using 90s. It looks cleaner to me. Also, I might just use AAV for now and reconfigure it later when working on the bathroom in the future. I believe, using AAV in this case would not have any major concern. I usually spend time working from home in the basement on the opposite corner of the drain area (~30 ft away).

I enjoy doing things myself and I believe in doing it the right way (although might not be a perfect way). I'm weighing the information and if it's not doable or too risky for me, I would get someone to do it. So far this seems to be DIY-able.

The reason that that I didn't think about tying to the main drain pipe is b/c that pipe is almost against the wall and I don't know if I could easily cut that pipe without having to rip the insulation sheet.

I learned a lot. Thank you very much.