How to tie softener to existing sump drain line to daylight - check valve?

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My softener and iron filter currently drain into a crock which uses a grinder pump to get up from the basement and into the gravity main drain line to a septic field. I am not concerned about whether draining to the field is acceptable.

Thursday this week my grinder crock alarm went off at 02:45. The pump switch didn't activate and the iron filter happily continued discharging. A small fetid lake emerged.

I got the pump running then mopped with bleach until 04:00. This was motivational. I no longer want to drain to this crock.

I have access to the gravity exit main drain but it does not quite allow for 18" air-gap to trap, but almost. I can probably get 15". I cannot go to the next higher floor. It would be a large contraption to include the p-trap, AAV and air-gaps. I am looking for options.

I have a sump pump crock right next to the grinder crock. The drain goes up through a check valve then out to daylight. I am wondering if I can safely tie the softener and iron filter outlets into this sump outlet line using a check valve. I am not taking about into the crock. I want gravity drain. I am talking about into the horizontal line that exits to daylight with a slope down. There is even less headroom so an air-gap is out of the question.

The house is on a hill and we'll drained. I do not think the sump pump will ever activate; but it could. The drain is to daylight and is not a sewage line. It may have spiders and wasps. Is backflow contamination a concern?

I am not concerned about putting salt water outside. It drains to stones which themselves are the top layer of a perimeter 4" drain around the house and eventually to daylight.

Do any of you think that a check valve teed or wyed into the sump drain line is a good approach? P-trap too?

Thank you in advance
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