poppity
New Member
I have a several part question, and I don't think something like this has quite been asked here before. So I'll try to be as detailed as possible!
I'm redoing the 2nd-floor bath in my ~1875 condo. I've cleared everything out, including about three extra inches of layered flooring. My primary concern involves the toilet. I unsweated an old brass flange from a 3" brass drain pipe so I can install a new flange to sit on top of a new tile floor. As you can see in the photos, the flange connected with a three-inch-or-so section of vertical pipe, which drops into a 90-degree brass curve. The short vertical section unsweated itself when I removed the flange, but I've left it for the moment (in case you guys recommend resweating it). The curve connects to a nearly four-foot-long horizontal section of brass that connects to the cast iron stack. Here's where the questions start:
1. After looking at the attached photo, is there a crack in the connection between the horizontal brass drain pipe and the stack? If so, do I need to be concerned? Can it be patched, or do I need to replace the entire connection between my drain and the stack?
2. If the "crack" is a non-issue, can I connect PVC (or ABS?) to the existing brass pipe and then connect a PVC (or ABS) toilet flange?
3. If so, where should I connect the PVC/ABS to the brass? Should I cut into the horizontal brass pipe and connect PVC there using a rubber slip-over coupling with clamps? Or can I use a slip-over coupling to connect the PVC flange directly to the curved brass elbow? (This would be ideal, as there's an existing vent just below where the flange will connect.)
4. Is it possible/necessary, to resweat the short vertical section of brass pipe that came loose without removing any flooring?
5. If this nuttiness will work, do I have to use any kind of cement or adhesive when connecting the two pipes with a rubber slip-on coupling? Everything I've read about connecting brass to PVC suggests a rubber coupling, but doesn't mention anything about any sorts of solvent.
6. Finally, is there any reason I can't use a four-inch-wide flange that tapers to a three-inch connection?
I think that's it, depending on what you guys think. Please let me know if you have any questions, if someone's already answered all these questions, and thank you so much in advance!
:Chris
I'm redoing the 2nd-floor bath in my ~1875 condo. I've cleared everything out, including about three extra inches of layered flooring. My primary concern involves the toilet. I unsweated an old brass flange from a 3" brass drain pipe so I can install a new flange to sit on top of a new tile floor. As you can see in the photos, the flange connected with a three-inch-or-so section of vertical pipe, which drops into a 90-degree brass curve. The short vertical section unsweated itself when I removed the flange, but I've left it for the moment (in case you guys recommend resweating it). The curve connects to a nearly four-foot-long horizontal section of brass that connects to the cast iron stack. Here's where the questions start:
1. After looking at the attached photo, is there a crack in the connection between the horizontal brass drain pipe and the stack? If so, do I need to be concerned? Can it be patched, or do I need to replace the entire connection between my drain and the stack?
2. If the "crack" is a non-issue, can I connect PVC (or ABS?) to the existing brass pipe and then connect a PVC (or ABS) toilet flange?
3. If so, where should I connect the PVC/ABS to the brass? Should I cut into the horizontal brass pipe and connect PVC there using a rubber slip-over coupling with clamps? Or can I use a slip-over coupling to connect the PVC flange directly to the curved brass elbow? (This would be ideal, as there's an existing vent just below where the flange will connect.)
4. Is it possible/necessary, to resweat the short vertical section of brass pipe that came loose without removing any flooring?
5. If this nuttiness will work, do I have to use any kind of cement or adhesive when connecting the two pipes with a rubber slip-on coupling? Everything I've read about connecting brass to PVC suggests a rubber coupling, but doesn't mention anything about any sorts of solvent.
6. Finally, is there any reason I can't use a four-inch-wide flange that tapers to a three-inch connection?
I think that's it, depending on what you guys think. Please let me know if you have any questions, if someone's already answered all these questions, and thank you so much in advance!
:Chris