Fleck valve recommendations?

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brain

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Continuing to work to replace our existing softener, dealers have provided lots of options, with differing Fleck valve configurations, depending on the dealer.

Current unit is a Water Right IMP-1354, and I have determined it has a 2510 valve and a rebranded XT controller. I was able to verify valve from images online and the master programming mode (2510/2850, downflow). 1" copper plumbing to the unit. 13x54 tank (assume 2.5cuft), 18x40 brine tank.

We've not had trouble with the 2510, though I found it odd that specs kept with the unit claim it only has 19GPM@15PPSI, with 9@5PSI. We're on a well, with bladder tank and well switch set to 20-38PSI on/off settings.

Reading the forum, lots of posts about the 5600(SXT), with some notes it's an old valve, but that the 5800 is a replacement, newer and solid. One of the dealer options offers this. Another is a 2510-based unit.

I did a bit of research, and noted the 5800 is a 3/4' internal, but has better flow rates (Cont/Peak/CV: 21/27/5.4) than the 2510 (19/24/4.8). I also found the 1" 5810 valve is no more.

I guess I'm just wondering if I should consider the 5800 even though it's a 3/4" valve, over a newer update of the old 2510 1" valve we have. As well, trying to determine if the controller should factor in, as it looks like the 2510XT controller I have and the newer SXT controller are different, and I assume the 5800SXT controller is different yet (not sure if in a good or bad way).

I'm also looking at Hellenbrand units, which use a Clack WS-1, as two of the dealers have those, but I didn't have as much confusion there.
 
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Reach4

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"We've not had trouble with the 2510,"
Why replace?

If it is softening city water, replacing the resin should have a good effect.
 

brain

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"We've not had trouble with the 2510,"
Why replace?

If it is softening city water, replacing the resin should have a good effect.
Sorry, I was imprecise. We've not had trouble with the valve, but the unit is no longer softening, and I am not comfortable replacing the resin. None of the current dealers will do it for this softener, as it's a brand they do not carry. They also note it's 15 years old and they all recommended replacing the unit.

As noted in the post, we are on a well.
 

Bannerman

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You didn't mention if your well water contains iron or manganese, which if present, will usually accumulate on the surface of the resin beads which over time, will reduce the resin's ability to remove hardness. While a softener is not an efficient method for iron removal, if iron is being removed with the softener, additional cleaning with an acidic cleaner will be regularly required to assist to remove the accumulation.

Assuming chlorine or an alternate oxidizer is not being added before the softener to treat an iron/manganese/sulfur or bacterial issue, the existing resin may remain OK.

You didn't specify if each regeneration is taking longer to complete, or performing in an odd manner (ie: brine tank filling excessively).

After 15 years of continuous use, I anticipate the control valve will require maintenance to replace the usual wear and tear items (Seals, Spacers, O-rings, Brine Valve & possibly piston & cap), but its possible for a fix to be as simple as removing and cleaning the injector.

Unlike many other softener brands, both Fleck and Clack offer high quality & reliable control valves which will typically continue to operate for several decades when serviced periodically.

The following video links detail the procedure of disassembling and rebuilding the 2510 valve.

 

brain

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We have 2.5ppm of iron. Regenerations have not changed in duration in the time we have used it, and I see no issues with brine tank filling or other concerns. I have a receipt showing the valve was serviced in 2016, a piston was replaced and the 3/4" bypass was as well, + labor.

I suspect the iron and lack of resin maintenance has fouled the bed prior to our buying the home. Local firms who have visited in person to do tests and get measurements feel the valve is in good shape and also blame the resin, but none are willing to replace the resin, all have noted that even if the valve is fine, the XT controller is old and they feel replacement is a better option. As noted, while I considered replacing the resin, the more I read on it, the less I feel comfortable doing so by myself. As well, if I replace the resin and then need to have other service, none of the current local firms say they can help with diagnosis other than to say it's not working and replace, given the age.

If I knew more about softeners and issue diagnosis, I might consider other options, but I feel, at this point, replacing the unit is the most supportable option. That's why I thought I'd get some comments on the valve options.
 

Reach4

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If interested in trying to clean accumulated iron from your resin, see https://terrylove.com/forums/index....h-water-after-regeneration.97324/#post-700271

However I would up the dose to one cup of Iron Out powder/crystals.


Also consider mixing IO into your salt routinely for routine use.
 

Bannerman

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To attempt to restore the resin, I would recommend dissolving the strong dose of Super Iron Out into 1-gallon of hot tap water (~120F) and then pour that mixture into the brine tank's Brine Well, mixing with the brine already in the brine tank. Immediately initiate a regeneration cycle. Once the brine/SIO mixture has been transferred into the media tank, to extend the mixture's contact time with the resin, close the softener's bypass valve and remove the power plug from the wall outlet. After 1-1.5 hrs, open the bypass valve and restore electrical power to allow the control valve to complete the remaining regeneration cycle.

Since there maybe as much as 15-yrs of iron accumulation, suggest immediately performing a 2nd cleaning, following the same procedure as above.

Because SIO has a strong odor, and as iron removal will expose additional resin bead surfaces that may not have been regenerated for numerous years, suggest performing 1 additional regeneration cycle, directly before departing for the night, using sufficient salt but with no SIO. The additional regen cycle should ensure any residual SIO is rinsed away, and is also likely to regenerate additional resin capacity, thereby reducing hardness leakage through the resin bed.

Since each 1ppm iron depletes ~86 ppm (5 gpg) hardness removal capacity, the softener's hardness setting must include not only actual hardness, but also compensation for the iron amount.

Suggest listing the softener's current settings, and state the actual hardness tested in your raw water directly from the well.
 

brain

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OK, I attempted to restore the resin. I followed the instructions above (2 SIO cycles and then another regen after). The hardness at the well is 23gpg, and the iron is 2.5ppm, so the softener is set for 36, to compensate.

We had to be out of town for a few weeks, so we're just now back and using water again. Before, there was no odors, but now, the house is full of an odor that approximates the chemical in home hair perm products (at least that's what the SO and I can attribute it to). I've smelled rotten eggs and suflur, and the smell does not seem the same. I am still waiting on a water test kit to arrive to test new hardness, but the situation I fear has gotten worse. I've regenerated 3 times since we arrived back, and the smell has not dissipated. If I search for home perm smell, I get "ammonia", but a search for ammonia water softener didn't bring up much.

The exact settings on the unit are:
MTR DLY FIX RSV
2510 valve
down flow
48000 capacity
36 hardness
35% safety factor
regen day: 5
11:30PM regen
Regen cycle 1-5: 12,1:30,4,12 (seems like I am missing a number here)
aux relay enabled
start 1: 12
end 1: 32
start 2: 32
end 2: 32
no chem pump
.75 turbine

Jim
 
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