Fleck 5600 running my well dry

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Eric70

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Hello all. 2-months ago, I had a new Fleck 5600 backwash system installed to replace a Watertech Reionator. The Reionator worked fine to mitigate the high levels of iron I have in my well water; however, the constant filter changes were becoming annoying. I have always had very good water pressure and quantity, and the guy who recommended and installed the Fleck 5600 did a test on my Well, and was very familiar with it.

Upon installation of the Fleck system, the installer set it to backwash every night to try and manage the high levels of iron. According to him, the Fleck can use anywhere from (on average) 50 to 100 gallons of water every backwash cycle. I went out of town for four days shortly after the install, and came home to have no water for the next few days. The installer has admitted that backwashing every night most likely depleted my well. He changed the backwash cycle to every four days, however the cycle only goes for about 10 minutes before I once again run out of water. So, I have a backwash system that can’t run a backwash cycle!

The installer is convinced that all I need is to be patient for my well to fill back up, and the system will work fine. However, after two months of constantly running out of water, my patience has been exhausted. Granted, it’s been a dry year where I live, yet I (nor he) has any idea when, or if, the well will ever get back to a level that can handle a full backwash cycle before running me out of water. He has refused to offer a refund, as he claims it’s not the Flecks fault, yet “it’s just been a dry year”.

Do you all think that a Fleck system is indeed a good fit for an 810’ deep well such as mine? Or am I just being fooled into believeing that’s there’s ever going to be hope that it will ever work without running me out of water? Thanks for taking the time to read this, and any insight and advice you have!
 

ditttohead

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You have a problem that we see a lot. The 5600 valve is not the correct valve for this application since it is not adjustable. You really should replace the valve with a modern valve like the 5800SXT or 2510SXT. Otherwise I would recommend setting up a separate source backwash and a cistern/atmospheric tank. You could also add a couple of large pressure tanks to accommodate the backwash rates, this would give the well time to recover.
 

Eric70

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You have a problem that we see a lot. The 5600 valve is not the correct valve for this application since it is not adjustable. You really should replace the valve with a modern valve like the 5800SXT or 2510SXT. Otherwise I would recommend setting up a separate source backwash and a cistern/atmospheric tank. You could also add a couple of large pressure tanks to accommodate the backwash rates, this would give the well time to recover.

Thank you very much for your reply. With the 5600 valve not being adjustable, does that mean that the quantity of water per backwash cycle can’t be adjusted down? I thought it would be a good idea to install a cistern tank to store water (and know I actually have water). I have a 32-gallon Pressure tank with a 5-gallon drawdown. In addition to putting in a cistern, would you recommmend another, or maybe just a larger, pressure tank?

I’ve been patiently waiting for soaking rain (which we haven’t had) to help the well recover, yet I’ve also been told it “can take years” for surface water to finally get down 800+ feet to feed the well? Is that correct? (I hope not! :()
 

ditttohead

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It is correct. Ground water supplies can take many years to recover if they ever do. If you have a cistern then a pressure tank is typically not used. A simple float switch will turn the well pump on and off. A distribution pump is used to push water from your cistern to the house. You could replace the 5600 with a better valve and add a 119 gallon pressure tank. This would probably work much better than what you have. How many GOM is your well pushing now?
 

Reach4

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I had a new Fleck 5600 backwash system installed
To be clear, that is a 5600 mechanical valve and not a 5600SXT with a digital display, right?

A shorter backwash cycle might be in order.

Tell us about your well and your well pump.

Also tell us the tank diameter and what the media is.
 

Eric70

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It is correct. Ground water supplies can take many years to recover if they ever do. If you have a cistern then a pressure tank is typically not used. A simple float switch will turn the well pump on and off. A distribution pump is used to push water from your cistern to the house. You could replace the 5600 with a better valve and add a 119 gallon pressure tank. This would probably work much better than what you have. How many GOM is your well pushing now?

Thank you. I didn’t realize that a pressure tank isn’t necessary with a cistern. Would you recommend replacing my 32-gallon pressure tank with a 119-gallon, versus installing a cistern? I’ll have to measure my current GPM (since this Fleck was installed and my water quantity issues started). Before the install when I had no issues, I had close to 8 GPM, and it took just short of 40 seconds from the cut-in of 40psi to cut-out of 60psi. Since this all started, IF my pressure tank actually cuts-in (many times it just drains to “0” when it gets to 40psi) that time can be from 2 to 5 minutes, due to just not having enough water.
 

ditttohead

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Bigger tanks are always good (except for the pocketbook). A better valve would be a good investment. The cistern is up to you. I work with many companies in Colorado that have wells that produce less than 2 gpm so cisterns are required. If your well is able to make 8 GPM then a cistern is likely not needed but would be desirable. It is always nice to have a couple thousand gallons of water stored in case something goes wrong with the well pump.
 

Eric70

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To be clear, that is a 5600 mechanical valve and not a 5600SXT with a digital display, right?

A shorter backwash cycle might be in order.

Tell us about your well and your well pump.

Also tell us the tank diameter and what the media is.

Hello, Reach4. The Owner’s Manual (all 5 pages of it :cool:) refers to it as a “FLECK 5600 Electromechanical” valve. My well is 810’ deep, and was drilled and installed back in 1995 when the home was built. The only background I have on the well is from the Well Permit, and I assume that the pump, check valves, and other parts are original (I contacted the Company that drilled and installed the well, and they said they have no paperwork on the specifics). I did have that same Company come out to test the amperage of my pump when this all started, and the Technician said it was good (he also checked for possible leaks, and couldn’t find any evidence of that). The “Operating Specifications” sticker on the tank the Fleck is attached to states the size is “948 PG 2.5”T. “
 

Eric70

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Bigger tanks are always good (except for the pocketbook). A better valve would be a good investment. The cistern is up to you. I work with many companies in Colorado that have wells that produce less than 2 gpm so cisterns are required. If your well is able to make 8 GPM then a cistern is likely not needed but would be desirable. It is always nice to have a couple thousand gallons of water stored in case something goes wrong with the well pump.

Thank you once again! The few neighbors I have all have cisterns due to their low production rate (in fact, they had been envious of my high production rate...at least up until this problem started). Since the Fleck was installed, and I started routinely running out of water, I’m constantly checking my pressure gauge to see if I even have enough water to take a 5-minute shower. However, even if it’s full at 60psi, there’s little certainty that it will refill when it gets to 40psi cut-in. Oftentimes, when it gets to cut-in, it drops right down to “0”. Having a cistern tank would be nice as I could actually verify I had an ample supply of water.

Do you think that by switching to a more efficient, less water usage valve, as well as installing a cistern would possibly allow this Fleck to work with my well? I really WANT it to work, as I like the simplicity of the system, and that it requires no messy filter to be routinely changed. Yet, I just don’t want to live in constant paranoia (as has been the case since its installation) of whether it’s going to run me out of water :(
 

Reach4

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No pressure tank is needed to fill a cistern, but the pressure tank that draws water from the cistern needs a pressure tank.
948 PG 2.5”T
Could that maybe be 9 inch diameter by 48 inches tall tank? That makes backwash gpm needed much lower than for a bigger diameter tank.

A 119 gallon pressure tank could help if you could be sure that it would be full when the backwash started. However it could be almost empty at the start of backwash. If you could go poke the pressure switch armature to go on before your shower would guarantee that your pressure tank would be full at the start of the shower.

A controller that could backwash for 2 minutes, turn off for 5 minutes, backwash another 2 minutes and so forth could be useful.
 

Eric70

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No pressure tank is needed to fill a cistern, but the pressure tank that draws water from the cistern needs a pressure tank.

Could that maybe be 9 inch diameter by 48 inches tall tank? That makes backwash gpm needed much lower than for a bigger diameter tank.

A 119 gallon pressure tank could help if you could be sure that it would be full when the backwash started. However it could be almost empty at the start of backwash. If you could go poke the pressure switch armature to go on before your shower would guarantee that your pressure tank would be full at the start of the shower.

A controller that could backwash for 2 minutes, turn off for 5 minutes, backwash another 2 minutes and so forth could be useful.

The diameter of the tank is 2.5’, and the height is 48”. I have spoken with a Well Specialist, and he was very skeptical that this 5600 system may ever run a full backwash if it uses upwards of 100 gallons of water every cycle. Since I was out of town during the first few cycles after install, I’m not sure if it’s ever had enough water to run a complete cycle? When I’ve been home to monitor several cycles, at best it’s made it about 30 minutes before running dry (not even a half of a cycle). Yet the guy who installed it continues to just blame my well, and that I need to be “patient for it to replenish itself”. Yet there was never any water quantity issues before this install.

Needless to say, it’s been difficult remaining patient, and continuing to trust this guy, when I’ve been for two months gambling if I have water when I turn on a faucet. If he could change it out to something that can backwash more efficiently, and use less water, I may be more optimistic.
 

Eric70

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Bigger tanks are always good (except for the pocketbook). A better valve would be a good investment. The cistern is up to you. I work with many companies in Colorado that have wells that produce less than 2 gpm so cisterns are required. If your well is able to make 8 GPM then a cistern is likely not needed but would be desirable. It is always nice to have a couple thousand gallons of water stored in case something goes wrong with the well pump.

If I would install a several hundred gallon cistern in the mechanical room where my backwash system is, do you think that may be the best option? If the backwash system needs upwards of 100 gallons per cycle, and I get a 500 gallon cistern, I would assume it would then be able to run a full cycle, and I would still have ample water stored in the tank?

I’m just trying to think what would be the most affordable and practical solution to where I can keep the backwash system, and it can run full cycles every week or so.
 

Reach4

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Those specs are for the cylinder that the Fleck is attached to.

2.5 ft diameter is 30 inches in diameter. It would take a huge flow of water to backwash a 30 inch diameter media tank.
 

Eric70

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I bet that 2.5 ft. is circumference, which equals 9.5 inch diameter.

Yes, that is correct. My bad.

I spoke to the guy who installed the backwash system today, and after talking to the manufacturer, he echoed what ditttohead posted earlier. Apparently, the Fleck5600 that he installed uses 150 gallons of water PER backwash cycle :eek: (and as ditttohead also stated, the 5600 cannot be adjusted to use less than that).

So, in order to help my well recover, and use less water per backwash, he now recommends installing the 2510. He says that valve uses 60 gallons (versus 150 gallons) and CAN be adjusted to use less, if needed. Since he set the 5600 to backwash every day when he installed it, I have no doubt that my well just couldn’t handle 150 gallons being used every day.

I think it would be a good idea to install a cistern to store water, and hopefully this new 2510 valve will allow me to actually use this system and run full backwash cycles when necessary.
 

Reach4

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So, in order to help my well recover, and use less water per backwash, he now recommends installing the 2510. He says that valve uses 60 gallons (versus 150 gallons) and CAN be adjusted to use less, if needed.
The 2500xtr 5810xtr offers even more flexiblity. As I understand it, it could do the backwash in stages, allowing the pressure tank to refill between backwash events. So maybe backwash 2 minutes, wait 10, etc.
 
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Eric70

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The 2500xtr offers even more flexiblity. As I understand it, it could do the backwash in stages, allowing the pressure tank to refill between backwash events. So maybe backwash 2 minutes, wait 10, etc.

That’s what I also understood as well. Hopefully my well can recover enough to manage a backwash cycle like you mentioned. Being able to change the timing to where my pressure tank may have the ability to refill in between stages would be a big help. I’m keeping my fingers crossed I’ll eventually have plenty of water, and a backwash system that works as it should.
 

ditttohead

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2500XTR?
1990 meets 2020 :)

Do your mean the 5810XTR?

the 2510sxt will be perfect for your application. The larger bladder tank will also help.
 
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