Fill swimming pool from my well ?

Tomdude

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Good evening I have an 8000 gallon above ground pool that I want to fill from my well. I want to use my well rather than trucking in water because a lot of wells in this area are polluted with PFAS. I have a whole house carbon system and my well water is free of PFAS. My well is 54 feet deep with a new submersible pump at 50 foot depth. In 20 odd years here I never ran out of water, even in drought years. I want to avoid stressing or burning out my new well pump. I plan to run the garden hose into the pool for one hour at a time, then turn the hose off for an hour to let the well recharge and the pump cool off. While the hose is running, I will sit on the pool deck and read. If the hose stops running, I will immediately turn off the breaker to save the well pump. I have read that well pumps burn out when run dry.

Thanks for reading this War and Peace sized post. Does this sound like a good plan? Would you do anything differently? Thanks in advance for any advice.
 
What's in the well water? Any clear water iron? Adding chlorine after the fill can cause all kinds of stains as things are oxidized by the chlorine. Right now fill porcelain bowl of well water, add a few drops of bleach and let it sit overnight.
 
Thank you for your reply My well water works fine for filling the pool and I have done it years ago with no problems. My original well pump was a Gould two line jet pump built in 1991 and the well head was buried. I had the jet pump replaced with a new submersible and the well head converted to a modern above ground design. The jet pump was working fine, I just wanted a more modern well pump before I retire.

My main goal is being able to fill my pool without overheating the submersible pump. This is my first submersible well pump and I dont know much about them. I have a whole house carbon filter to remove the PFAS and other pollutants.
 
You can run a submersible pump indefinitely and as long as there is water flowing through it won't overheat. It's the startup amps that create heat and destroy motors. As long as you an limit the pumps cycling and your well doesn't run out of water you'll be good to go.
 
As was said, just don't let the well pump cycle on and off while running the hose in the pool. Best to run several hoses or at least enough to keep the pump from being able to reach 60 and shut off. Adding a Cycle Stop Valve to your pressure tank system would let you fill the pool with as little as 1 GPM, without cycling the pump on and off. 1 GPM is all that is needed to keep a pump/motor cool, then it can run 24/7/365 without hurting anything. I have one on a stock water tank that hasn't shut off since 1996.
CSV1A with 20 gallon tank cross.png
 
As was said, just don't let the well pump cycle on and off while running the hose in the pool. Best to run several hoses or at least enough to keep the pump from being able to reach 60 and shut off. Adding a Cycle Stop Valve to your pressure tank system would let you fill the pool with as little as 1 GPM, without cycling the pump on and off. 1 GPM is all that is needed to keep a pump/motor cool, then it can run 24/7/365 without hurting anything. I have one on a stock water tank that hasn't shut off since 1996.View attachment 99170

I know this thread is old but I'm about to drain and refill my hot tub and I have a submersible pump. Can someone clarify what this post means? I don't want to burn out my pump.

Thank you!
 
I know this thread is old but I'm about to drain and refill my hot tub and I have a submersible pump. Can someone clarify what this post means? I don't want to burn out my pump.

Thank you!

The gist of it is that the pump won't mind running as long as it's needed to - what damages pumps is the cycling on and off. If you're filling the hot tub and the pump has to cycle on and off, that creates wear and tear. What Cary suggested is running multiple hoses. By running multiple hoses from several taps, you'll draw as much or more water than the pump will deliver. That way, the pump will run continually (not a problem) instead of cycling (bad). The other way is to install a Cycle Stop Valve which will benefit the well pump even when using it for things like showers, watering the lawn or garden, etc.

John
 
Good evening. I have an 8000 gallon above ground pool that I want to fill from my well. I want to use my well rather than trucking in water because a lot of wells in this area are polluted with PFAS. I have a whole house carbon system and my well water is free of PFAS. My well is 54 feet deep with a new submersible pump at 50 foot depth. In 20 odd years here I never ran out of water, even in drought years. I want to avoid stressing or burning out my new well pump. ORCA Pool Services could also be worth consulting for advice on pool filling and maintenance. I plan to run the garden hose into the pool for one hour at a time, then turn the hose off for an hour to let the well recharge and the pump cool off. While the hose is running, I will sit on the pool deck and read. If the hose stops running, I will immediately turn off the breaker to save the well pump. I have read that well pumps burn out when run dry.

Thanks for reading this War and Peace sized post. Does this sound like a good plan? Would you do anything differently? Thanks in advance for any advice.
Your plan sounds pretty reasonable, especially since your well has never run dry in 20+ years. The main thing I would determine first is the well’s recovery rate and how many gallons per minute your hose is actually drawing. If the pump is producing more water than the well can sustainably supply, even an hour of running could eventually lower the water level. I’d also recommend installing or using a dry-run/low-water cutoff if your system doesn’t already have one. That’s more reliable than depending on someone to notice the flow stopping. Otherwise, filling the pool slowly over several days and giving the well regular rest periods seems like a sensible approach. I’d rather take a little longer filling it than risk stressing a new pump.
 
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