Deep Well Pump Running NEED HELP

[jb73]

DEEP WELL PUMP RUNNING EVEN AFTER VERIFICATIINSNAND ADJUSTMENTS

Good day to all, we have a deep well at 300 ft, the 4-in casing is down to 210 ft, the pump is hung at 187 ft, and the static water level was 157 ft at time of well installation. This well is 20 years old here in FL. The pump is a two and a half horse submersible pump.

I had to replace the pressure switch about a year ago due to ants getting into it. We are now having issues again, one year later, but this time it's not ant related.

The pump continuously runs. The pressure switch is a 40/60. When I replaced it with a new unit a year ago, I also replace the nipple pipe leaving up to the pressure switch. I did not see any sediment in the original but replaced it anyways. I verified that the pressure tank is set approximately 2 lb less. It does not appear that my pump is reaching 60 PSI for the cutoff. It looks like it's reaching close, at about 58 PSI.
I replaced the pressure switch again a few days ago, but still same issues.
I adjusted the new pressure switch down a couple times and now I'm at about 55 psi. Initially the pressure builds up and it's cutting off, but at some point during its cycling throughout the day or night, the pressure switch will stay closed and the pump continues to run. I have to gently tap on the switch box and the contacts will release and pump with shut off...

I would think that by lowering the pressure for the cut off, the pump should turn off with regularity. I'm not sure if I'm having a pump issue or if there's something else going on. I know normally you would not adjust the pressure switch cut in and cut off values, but because it appeared that my pump was not reaching the 60 PSI cut off, I thought adjusting the cut off down to 55 may resolve the issue, especially if the pump was slightly weak. The one thing I have not done is check my static water level. The 157 ft was calculated when the pump was originally installed 20 years ago.

Anyone have any recommendations or suggestions before I have the expense of a well company coming out? Any recommendations or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

 

[Valveman]

You may have a leak somewhere that is depleting the well, or just letting out enough water the pump can't build pressure. If there is no check valve at the tank, turning off power to the pump when all faucets are closed to see if the pressure drops will tell you there is a leak in the pipe. If there is a check valve at the tank, sometimes air in the line will indicate a hole in the drop pipe. It could also just be a worn pump that cannot build enough pressure anymore. Lowing the switch is good if needed, or just turn it off as you do not want a pump to run unless water is being used.

 

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[Reach4]

If you find there is not a leak, turning down the pressure switch makes sense. What is the water pressure indicated at the pressure gauge? I would not want the cut out pressure to be less than 5 psi below that. For example, if that pressure is 56 psi, I would not set the cut-out to less than 51 psi.

In a typical pressure switch, turning the nut on the big screw 3.5 turns CCW will lower the cut-in and cut-out by 10 psi. So I would turn the nut CCW about 3.15 turns CCW.

After turning down the pressure, then adjust the air precharge.

2.5 HP seems inappropriately high for a pump set at 187 to just service a house and some lawn. But 2.5 HP is only part of the story. Is this a 40 gpm pump? 12 gpm? If you replace this pump, give some thought to a different pump...

If you determine there is a leak, you could put in a top side check valve as a temporary workaround, along with reducing the pressure switch setting. But also plan for replacing the pump. A 1.5 HP, or even 1.0 HP, 10 gpm pump seems like a better choice to me. Choose your sprinkler heads and zones accordingly.