Cutting out countertops for sinks

[Verdeboy]

I recently attempted to cut out a countertop for a kitchen sink, where the countertop was 1" thick butcher block. My 5 amp Skil jigsaw was virtually useless. It just vibrated and shook, and cut about an inch every ten minutes.

I ended up using a circular saw for the straight cuts and somehow got the jigsaw to do the rounded corners.

I've since returned the Skil Jigsaw and I'm considering buying the Bosch 6.4 amp. I'm sure it will be a much better saw, but does anyone know whether it could do the entire cutout in thick hardwood like the 1" butcher block? For round cutouts, e.g., lavatory sinks, you can't use a circular saw.

By the way, I have a rotozip with a jigsaw handle attachment, and that was even more useless then the Skil Jigsaw.

 

[Prashster]

I think a jigsaw is the wrong tool for this kind of job. Butcher block is extremely hard and dense. You can try a stronger blade for the jsaw.

However, this job is best served by a router with a carbide-tipped 1" flush cutting bit. You can do the job in successive 1/4" passes. Be wary, though, a router really kicks. You should build yourself a template/jig out of 1/2" plywood (which you CAN cut w/yr jigsaw). Obviously, you'll have to make the template larger at the perimeter by the radius of the router face plate.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[hj]

cutout

All a jig saw does is move the blade up and down. You need the proper blade or nothing will cut it properly. The thicker the material, the coarser the blade has to be. But for the straight portions a SkilSaw may be the best and fastest cutter.

 

[Bob NH]

I have used a rotozip to cut some pretty tough material. But you need the correct bit. I usually use a 1/4" or 5/16" two-flute carbide bit with a 1" cutting length. Use the highest speed to minimize digging in and keep both hands on the tool.

One problem with using a regular router is that you often have a wall or backsplash that prevents you from doing the back edge with a router.

You could drill out the corners of a square opening with a large drill and use a SawzAll with a narrow metal-cutting blade.

The edge of an opening in a countertop is usually covered with the part going in so you don't have to be perfect, but you need to protect the countertop from marring with the tool.

 

[Mikey]

I bought a Bosch 1587AVSK-46 about a year ago and am very pleased with it. It's only a 5A saw, but "feels" very beefy. It's an orbital saw, which makes cutting thicker material a lot easier; coupled with Bosch's coarse blade, I don't think it'd be a problem going through 1" material.

 

[Spaceman Spiff]

Try a laminate trimmer. It is a step between the roto-zip and the router. It'll accept any 1/4" shank bit, has a good amount of power and handles somewhere inbetween. Use it like you would a router with your template and use a 1/4" upcut spiral flush cut bit. With this bit you can cut 1/2-3/4 per pass...

 

[twigpig]

I bought a Bosch after I broke my old Craftsman jigsaw. No comparison. The Bosch is much smoother to operate. A quality tool with plenty of power. Play around with the orbital adjustment to see what cuts the best and still gives you an acceptably smooth cut. Get a pack of course blades and if it stops cutting like you like or starts burning the wood change the blade. It only takes a minute to change the blade with the toolless turney thingy on the top. Take your time and don't rush the blade. Let the saw do the work. I put granite countertops in my house. Now that was hard to cut. I tried to use a masonry blade in the Bosch for a couple of minutes on the curved corners but quickly realized that was the wrong tool. Angle grinder time.

 

[Verdeboy]

I put granite countertops in my house. Now that was hard to cut. I tried to use a masonry blade in the Bosch for a couple of minutes on the curved corners but quickly realized that was the wrong tool. Angle grinder time.

Did you use a circular saw with a diamond blade to make the straight cuts?

I bought the latest and greatest Bosch--6.4 amps. Better to have excess power than not enough.

 

[twigpig]

Verdeboy

Yes I used a couple of diamond blades on a Porter Cable left blade skill saw. I used water when I cut outside cutting the blanks to length. I cut dry for the sink and cooktop holes inside (dust city). Changed the barings once. Used a cheapo Harbor Freight 4 1/2 angle grinder with diamond blade on the corners.

 

[Mikey]

Depending on the corner radius, you might consider blowing $50 or so for a diamond hole saw. I've bought them from http://www.diamond-drill-bit-and-tool.com/Diamond-Drill/MAIN.htm and been pretty happy. There's no pilot (at least on the ones I've used), so I use a block of hardwood pre-cut with the same size hole to hold the diamond saw in the proper position until the kerf is established. I've just used a hand-held drill, but a drill press would be sweet.

 

[sanaka]

1" maple (the usual wood for butcher block), or 1" of any wood really, should be no problem for a decent, properly set up jigsaw. It's about the right blade and knowing what you're doing.There are definitely junk jigsaws too. Bosch is a fine tool. When my 15 year old Bosch finally bit the dust, I upgraded to a Festo, definitely the Bentley of jigsaws. There is a feel that develops for using a jig saw. It won't cut nearly as fast as a skilsaw. The rough tooth blade needed for thick/hard materials also won't cut as tight a radius as a tiny scroll blade.

Peace,
Sanaka