Claw foot tub supply lines

Users who are viewing this thread

milz45

New Member
Messages
13
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Ohio
Hi. I'm installing a claw foot tub and need some guidance on the supply lines. I have the decorative 1/2" lines that came with the kit, along with decorative valves and escutcheons. I have PEX under the floor. The valves have a compression connector for the water line and a female thread on the other side. I'm struggling to figure out how to go from the PEX to all of this. Any help is appreciated.

20201206_180230.jpg
 

milz45

New Member
Messages
13
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Ohio
The stubs coming up from the floor will need to be done at rough-in stage, in copper before finish flooring goes down or secured from below...
Those stubs need to be secured to solid wood. https://www.supplyhouse.com/Sioux-C...O-E2p8vyAYfm75_7m7ayFzIupX01r-0xoC6JkQAvD_BwE
They also come with 90 deg. elbows.

Just so I'm clear, you're saying in this order ... PEX to copper stubs, stubs secured running through floor, escutcheon, copper to male thread fitting, decorative valve, then decorative supply line with compression fitting ... correct? So copper stub would run through the escutcheon? The hole looks pretty small, but maybe it would fit on copper.
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
39,015
Reaction score
4,479
Points
113
Location
IL
Just so I'm clear, you're saying in this order ... PEX to copper stubs, stubs secured running through floor, escutcheon, copper to male thread fitting, decorative valve, then decorative supply line with compression fitting ... correct? So copper stub would run through the escutcheon? The hole looks pretty small, but maybe it would fit on copper.
FYI, 1/2 inch PEX and 1/2 inch copper have the same outside diameter. That OD is 5/8 inch (0.625).
 

milz45

New Member
Messages
13
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Ohio
FYI, 1/2 inch pex and 1/2 inch copper have the same outside diameter. That OD is 5/8 inch (0.625).
Understood. The hole size I was talking about was in the escutcheon. It is exactly 1/2", which is the diameter of the decorative supply lines. So was wondering how I'd make that work with a copper stub.
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
39,015
Reaction score
4,479
Points
113
Location
IL
Understood. The hole size I was talking about was in the escutcheon. It is exactly 1/2", which is the diameter of the decorative supply lines. So was wondering how I'd make that work with a copper stub.
You would transition below probably. How big is the inside diameter of the ferrule in that nut for the valve? 3/8 or 1/2?


Do you have a photo of that system installed -- showing the escutcheon and the valve? Does the threaded part of the valve go on top to the faucet?

A 3/8 nipple would be 0.675 in OD. If that is the size into the threaded side of the valve, and the valve sat right above the escutcheon, and if the hole in the escutcheon cleared that, that would make sense. But your hole is too small for that.

A 1/4 inch NPT or IPS nipple is 0.540 OD. Seems possible, and as strange as it may seem is probably adequate flow. ID is 0.364.
 
Last edited:

Jeff H Young

In the Trades
Messages
9,299
Reaction score
2,342
Points
113
Location
92346
I noticed in original pic the hole looked small. There's more to hooking this up that's not shown. It could have 1/2 inch tubular connections to the valve or 1/2 inch IP . all this old stuff is re-created in modern ways . The escutcheon could be wrong for all I know It may require 1/2' threaded pipe thru floor with escutcheon and then the valve continuing with 1/2 " OD tube. But the OP is the one with all the information and needs confirm everything been through this many times ripping out floors ceilings and walls aint fun. been there done that
 

milz45

New Member
Messages
13
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Ohio
You would transition below probably. How big is the inside diameter of the ferrule in that nut for the valve? 3/8 or 1/2?


Do you have a photo of that system installed -- showing the escutcheon and the valve? Does the threaded part of the valve go on top to the faucet?

A 3/8 nipple would be 0.675 in OD. If that is the size into the threaded side of the valve, and the valve sat right above the escutcheon, and if the hole in the escutcheon cleared that, that would make sense. But your hole is too small for that.

A 1/4 inch NPT or IPS nipple is 0.540 OD. Seems possible, and as strange as it may seem is probably adequate flow. ID is 0.364.

The inside diameter of the ferrule in the nut is exactly 1/2". It looks to be where I would connect the hard decorative line which then goes up to the tub. The other side of the valve, which is a female thread, looks to be about 3/4" inner diameter. So it appears I need something that has a 1/2" diameter that goes from the PEX, through the escutcheon and to the female threaded side of the valve. Unfortunately, I do not have pictures of how it's supposed to be connected as it's a new installation.
 

Jeff H Young

In the Trades
Messages
9,299
Reaction score
2,342
Points
113
Location
92346
miltz 45 what I'm saying 1/2 '' threaded pipe through the escutcheon then your stop valve screws on then 1/2 inch OD line. You need to verify I'm just guessing your the one with a box of parts . are you buying everything piece by piece or do you have a kit? You got these parts some how was it just some random yard sale or are they supposed to work together? Need a little more help on this miltz45

clawfoot_2218.jpg


1/2" threaded stops into 1/2" brass nipples threaded into drop ear 90's below the floor.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
39,015
Reaction score
4,479
Points
113
Location
IL
he other side of the valve, which is a female thread, looks to be about 3/4" inner diameter.
Buy a 1/2 inch nipple, and take it home for size, or, better yet, take your valve to the store, and try for size. Start with 1/2 inch nominal.

Given the parts you have, you may end up having to drill that hole in the escutcheon bigger. Also, you could get a new escutcheon with the right size hole. Ones made for a shower arm may be the right size. The new escutcheon could be shallow I think.

So whatever nipple fits the valve bottom right, my current idea is to adapt the PEX to a brass nipple. Adapter from PEX to nipple is below the floor. Escutcheon drops over the nipple before attaching the valve. Valve fits on nipple, and is positioned tight against the top of the escutcheon. Then install your long 1/2 OD tubing up to the faucet. I am not a pro, and I have not done what I envision.
 
Last edited:

Jeff H Young

In the Trades
Messages
9,299
Reaction score
2,342
Points
113
Location
92346
Wrong escutcheon? it happens these designer places put a package together with wrong stuff who has 3/8 coming through the floor? maybe real old places had it but not so much modern, but in any case how can I advice without seeing the rest? Somehow he got one picture up but can't supply more info
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
39,015
Reaction score
4,479
Points
113
Location
IL
Yeah... so either there needs to be an adapter above the escutcheon to adapt the 1/2 inch OD pipe that fits through the escutcheon to fit the thread, or the escutcheon needs to be changed to pass the pipe that fits the thread. Since rubbed oil adapters are pretty rare I assume, I think change the escutcheon.

Also, you should really not be trying to measure things like that thread ID with a tape measure. Use a caliper. A digital caliper needs a battery. A vernier caliper needs skill.
 

milz45

New Member
Messages
13
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Ohio
Wrong escutcheon? it happens these designer places put a package together with wrong stuff who has 3/8 coming through the floor? maybe real old places had it but not so much modern, but in any case how can I advice without seeing the rest? Somehow he got one picture up but can't supply more info

The parts I have are part of a kit. They're made to work together. There are no other parts included that seem like they will resolve this. Nothing that will fit through the included escutcheon other than the main line itself. I can't show another picture of all the parts because they are 5 hours away. This is on a property I've been rehabbing and I only grabbed these parts when I last left. But again, there are no other parts that would fit through the escutcheon.

Based on the advice supplied here, I've ordered two new bronze escutcheons with 1/2". I plan on using 1/2 copper through the floor and escutcheon, then adapting that to the valve. It sounds like stubs attached to the floor from the bottom are the way to go, but do they have those with male threads cut on the other side? If not, am I best to try to cut those threads or sweat on a male adapter?
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
39,015
Reaction score
4,479
Points
113
Location
IL
Based on the advice supplied here, I've ordered two new bronze escutcheons with 1/2". I plan on using 1/2 copper through the floor and escutcheon, then adapting that to the valve. It sounds like stubs attached to the floor from the bottom are the way to go, but do they have those with male threads cut on the other side? If not, am I best to try to cut those threads or sweat on a male adapter?
Do you plan to have that copper and an adapter to the valve thread visible above the new escutcheon?

To me it is ambiguous if 1/2 inch for the new escutcheons means 1/2 copper tubing size 5/8 od, or actual 1/2 inch OD. I suspect you mean 5/8. I am confident that either would need a threaded adapter to fit the valve. Both would be a different thing than I was imagining. Your adapter will be visible between the escutcheon and the valve.

If you have figured out something that will fit and work nice, good. Anyway, looking nice is subjective. Macrame could cover the adapter.
 

Jeff H Young

In the Trades
Messages
9,299
Reaction score
2,342
Points
113
Location
92346
Do you plan to have that copper and an adapter to the valve thread visible above the new escutcheon?

To me it is ambiguous if 1/2 inch for the new escutcheons means 1/2 copper tubing size 5/8 od, or actual 1/2 inch OD. I suspect you mean 5/8. I am confident that either would need a threaded adapter to fit the valve. Both would be a different thing than I was imagining. Your adapter will be visible between the escutcheon and the valve.

If you have figured out something that will fit and work nice, good. Anyway, looking nice is subjective. Macrame could cover the adapter.
I wouldn't proceed with work until I had my parts. So 1/2inch escutcheon your ordering is for 1/2 inch copper (5/8) od make sure you specify ! then you will see a male adapter above the escutcheon? I prefer IPS nipples but that's just my preference on exposed work. It a little more work my way.
There are many different valves I like to have all my material on site Because I've ripped out tile ceilings and walls and of course they put blame on plumber ( at least some) the location of your pipes coming through the floor maters 6 inch , spread 8 inch, who knows? . Maybe you got it all figured out Just trying touch on all bases for job to finish smoothly
 

milz45

New Member
Messages
13
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Ohio
I wouldnt proceed with work until I had my parts. So 1/2inch escutcheon your ordering is for 1/2 inch copper (5/8) od make sure you specify ! then you will see a male adapter above the escutcheon? I prefer IPS nipples but thats just my preferance on exposed work. It a little more work my way.
There are many differant valves I like to have all my material on site Because Ive ripped out tile cielings and walls and of cource they put blame on plumber ( at least some) the location of your pipes coming through the floor maters 6 inch , spread 8 inch, who knows? . Maybe you got it all figured out Just trying touch on all bases for job to finish smoothly

Agreed. I'm trying to get all my supplies together before I go any further. You are correct, the new escutcheons I ordered are for 1/2 copper, so they have 5/8" diameter holes (I should have been clearer on that point). I would very much prefer not to have any kind of adapter above the escutcheons if I can help it. I think it would look much better that way. I guess where I'm getting hung up was the suggestion to use a stub out like in the attached image. I thought this would work nicely, allowing me to connect it to the floor with a few screws from the underside. But I have not found any stub outs like that which have male threads. So if I use an IPS nipple and a PEX-Copper elbow, how would I rigidly connect that to the floor from underneath?

I've added a diagram to better show what I'm asking.
 

Attachments

  • stub out.jpg
    stub out.jpg
    10.7 KB · Views: 259
  • Plumbing diagram.jpg
    Plumbing diagram.jpg
    28.1 KB · Views: 266

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
39,015
Reaction score
4,479
Points
113
Location
IL
I would very much prefer not to have any kind of adapter above the escutcheons if I can help it.
So compare a 1/2 inch copper or PEX or CPVC pipe to the thread you are trying to connect to; each is 5/8 OD. I expect the thread is larger. You need to identify the thread before you can proceed.

Did you understand what I was trying to describe in #10?
 

Jeff H Young

In the Trades
Messages
9,299
Reaction score
2,342
Points
113
Location
92346
Just like your illustration only I would use a 1/2 IPS brass nipple through floor attached drop ear 90s below to a wood block . The nipples themselves would receive no strapping
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
39,015
Reaction score
4,479
Points
113
Location
IL
I was thinking that the pipe stiffness from above could hold the valve down. The up-force would be from the escutcheon pressing against the bottom of the valve.

It may be possible to get an all-thread IPS nipple. They make nuts to fit that, and that nut could be beneath the floor. Also, there are any number of clamps that could grab the unthreaded part of a nipple. Even a worm gear clamp could do that.
 

wwhitney

In the Trades
Messages
6,637
Reaction score
1,870
Points
113
Location
Berkeley, CA
So if I use an IPS nipple and a PEX-Copper elbow, how would I rigidly connect that to the floor from underneath?
If the pex can approach your elbow from just below the subfloor, you can use a pex-IPS high ear elbow, e.g.

https://www.sharkbite.com/products/brass-push-hy-ear-elbow

Otherwise, you can use a drop ear elbow, and run a piece of blocking between adjacent joists to attach it to. You have the option to attach the elbow to the blocking first, then the blocking to the joists, which is useful if the blocking is high up in the joist bay, so you wouldn't have access to the screws for the elbow.

Cheers, Wayne
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks