Check valve leakage

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Reach4

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- 1st night after pump install: pump ran at 3am when no water was being used

- Test 1: All valves open, water trapped between the check valve and my house fixtures - 5 psi drop in 7hrs at both the pump gauge and the tank gauge (nominal gauge values were different due to a bad gauge, but the drop was the same)
This is not repeatable, is it? That is to say, you don't loose almost 1 psi per hour all of the time, do you?

Somebody flushed a toilet? Leaky flush valve on a toilet?

Bypassed softener did a timed regeneration cycle? Some softener bypass valves pass water to the softener when in bypass.
 

southcppaw

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I've only done the test once, so I can't say for sure. I can rule out somebody flushing during the test, but I can't rule out if a flush valve is leaking at this point. No idea about the softener.

I guess the last test would be to close the ball valve A and leave the softener valve on bypass this time. If the pressure holds that should eliminate anything on the house side leaking. If the pressure drops 5psi overnight then it's got nothing to do with the check valve.
 

Reach4

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I've only done the test once, so I can't say for sure. I can rule out somebody flushing during the test, but I can't rule out if a flush valve is leaking at this point. No idea about the softener.

I guess the last test would be to close the ball valve A and leave the softener valve on bypass this time. If the pressure holds that should eliminate anything on the house side leaking. If the pressure drops 5psi overnight then it's got nothing to do with the check valve.
Yes, that would do it.

Is the softener plugged into electricity?
 

Reach4

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Not sure, unplug if it is?
That should make sure it does not regenerate while in bypass. Still, check the drain line to make sure it is not dribbling.

Now if you have an external 3-valve bypass, then that can block water to the softener. I am suspecting you have the single lever or 2-knob type.
 

southcppaw

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Ok, so I was fine tuning the pressure switch after work and just as I was leaving the room I noticed a faint hissing sound coming from near the pump. This was just after it had pumped up to full pressure and shut off. I put my ear to the several components and it definitely seemed like the check valve was generating the noise. Then I shut off the ball valve right after the pump and in all of two seconds the pressure drop right to zero between the check valve and the ball valve. I ran the pump again, this time no hissing, seems like it seated.

Is it normal for them to not seat every now and then? Now I'm really thinking I should replace it..

What's the best check valve on the market?

I will still try and pressure test the house fixtures overnight.
 

southcppaw

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I tested the house fixtures, toilets, etc. last night by closing the ball valve right after the pump. The house held 48 psi all night.

In my mind, the culprit has to be the check valve, especially with the incident I caught where it didn't seat... this is a brand new valve.

Is it too much to ask for a check valve to have zero leakage?
 

Valveman

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There are only two kinds of valves made, those that leak and those that will leak. All you can do is replace the ones that leak with one that will eventually leak.
 

southcppaw

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Ok, I'm finally able to summarize. Long story short, I installed a new BII brand check valve (made in Taiwan) and it consistently leaked about 5 psi in 7 hours. I checked everywhere I could think of but I could not find a made in USA valve locally so I ended up buying a new-old stock Flomatic on eBay. The thing must weigh nearly twice as much as the BII. Anyways, I got it installed and ran a leak test last night at 51 psi - zero leakage in almost 8hrs. I'm not saying every BII valve must leak but I wouldn't buy another one.
 
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