Can this shutoff valve stem be cut to size?

[MiamiNewbie]

Hello, I have two of these stems emerging several inches from the now-tiled walls. They are right next to my wall-mounted toilet and are pretty obtrusive. Can they be cut down so small handles can be placed flush with the tile? Thanks very much. Robert

 

[Reach4]

I am sure the answer is yes, but it will take some measurement and searching to find handles/knobs.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[hj]

Only if the "splines" on the stem go back as far as you want to cut it, but your photo is too poor to indicate if they do.

 

[Reach4]

Only if the "splines" on the stem go back as far as you want to cut it, but your photo is too poor to indicate if they do.

I sure think there must be some handle that could hook to an un-splined shaft with a set screw or two. That said, I did not find that offered when I looked. If worst came to worst, and the diameter was right, a big radio knob could be used. Either grind the stem into a D, or find one that was made for a round shaft. While shopping, I might use 2 tiny locking pliers.

 

[Jadnashua]

Typical handles are designed to fit on splines on the shaft so that they have a sturdy, long-lasting hold to the shaft and not slip on the shaft when rotating it. To keep the handle from pulling off, one common way is to then use a screw into the end of the shaft, through the handle, locking it onto the shaft.

Cutting things off often would mean cutting off the threaded hole in the end of the shaft AND the splines, so a typical handle could not be attached. As these things age, they can be hard to get started to turn...setscrews, may not have enough strength in the typically thin handle to hold without splitting it, and there'd be nothing to hold it in place from being pulled off. If you had some metal working tools, you could fabricate something, but it would take a lot of skill to make it look good and function. You're probably stuck with what you have. You may be able to find a long bell-shaped eschution (sp?) to hid the shaft, but the handle would still be sticking out at the end.

 

[MiamiNewbie]

Only if the "splines" on the stem go back as far as you want to cut it, but your photo is too poor to indicate if they do.

Sorry about the poor photo. In any case, the splines at the end of the stem do not go back far enough. I'd have to cut back 1 1/2 to 2 inches of the threaded part of the stem.

 

[MiamiNewbie]

I sure think there must be some handle that could hook to an un-splined shaft with a set screw or two. That said, I did not find that offered when I looked. If worst came to worst, and the diameter was right, a big radio knob could be used. Either grind the stem into a D, or find one that was made for a round shaft. While shopping, I might use 2 tiny locking pliers.

Thanks for looking and thanks for the suggestion!

 

[MiamiNewbie]

Typical handles are designed to fit on splines on the shaft so that they have a sturdy, long-lasting hold to the shaft and not slip on the shaft when rotating it. To keep the handle from pulling off, one common way is to then use a screw into the end of the shaft, through the handle, locking it onto the shaft.

Cutting things off often would mean cutting off the threaded hole in the end of the shaft AND the splines, so a typical handle could not be attached. As these things age, they can be hard to get started to turn...setscrews, may not have enough strength in the typically thin handle to hold without splitting it, and there'd be nothing to hold it in place from being pulled off. If you had some metal working tools, you could fabricate something, but it would take a lot of skill to make it look good and function. You're probably stuck with what you have. You may be able to find a long bell-shaped eschution (sp?) to hid the shaft, but the handle would still be sticking out at the end.

Discouraging, but thanks for the insights. (Perhaps I should have insisted more strenuously to the plumber who put in the shutoff valves to put everything inside the wall behind an access panel.)

 

[MiamiNewbie]

Sorry about the poor photo. In any case, the splines at the end of the stem do not go back far enough. I'd have to cut back 1 1/2 to 2 inches of the threaded part of the stem.

Here you can see (I hope) where the splines end.

 

[Reach4]

If you don't find a better option, cut the shaft to length. Grind square on the end to 3/8 inch. Put on door knob made to go onto a 3/8 inch square spindle, and tighten down the set screws.

Example: http://progressivehardware.net/doorknobs.html #2638 Brass Knobs for 3/8" Heavy Duty Spindles

 

[MiamiNewbie]

If you don't find a better option, cut the shaft to length. Grind square on the end to 3/8 inch. Put on door knob made to go onto a 3/8 inch square spindle, and tighten down the set screws.

Example: http://progressivehardware.net/doorknobs.html #2638 Brass Knobs for 3/8" Heavy Duty Spindles

Thanks very much for the suggestion. I think I can manage that. I guess the biggest risk is completing breaking the stem somehow.

 

[Reach4]

Thanks very much for the suggestion. I think I can manage that. I guess the biggest risk is completing breaking the stem somehow.

Your next step is to measure the outer diameter (OD) of the shaft in the area where you would be cutting.

The actual cutting-off will be easy. If you need to grind a square, that will take more finesse and effort. Click Inbox.

 

[hj]

Remove the outer threaded escutcheon nipple, because there MAY be more spines inside it. The "groove" you see may just be a "cut off point" so the stem can be shortened easier.

 

[Jadnashua]

The square shaft of a door mechanism that fits into a door handle is probably larger than the shaft of the valve, so it would not work. You might get lucky. Measure first. The existing diameter would need to be at least the size of the diagonal of the door knob square hole for it to end up tight and work. I suppose you might be able to put some shims in the hole of the handle to take up the slack, you could get creative, depends on your skill level and luck.

 

[Michael Young]

Hello, I have two of these stems emerging several inches from the now-tiled walls. They are right next to my wall-mounted toilet and are pretty obtrusive. Can they be cut down so small handles can be placed flush with the tile? Thanks very much. Robert

View attachment 43566

It doesn't look like you gave yourself any extra room around that stem; not sure you're going to be able to get a tool in there to pull the stems to find something a little shorter. If you haven't finished the job, since you're already inside the walls, just replace the valve with a nice BRAND NEW valve instead of fighting with this outdated stuff. You'll spend more money, time and effort trying to make the old stuff work, than you'll spend going with a brand new EASILY SERVICEABLE single handle Delta.

 

[PlumbSolve]

Cabt you just change the entire headpart? Looks like a standerd 1/2 inch body.You wouls just need to know the distance of the travel of the jumper. Its normally 24mm or so. I made a broach for this purpose. But its a 20 spline broach for a 7,6mm spindle. But you cant do it in situ. The headpart replacement is the simplest way to resolve this.

 

[hj]

DID YOU REMOVE THE NIPPLE? Because almost all stems that long are designed to be cut off to fit. What is a "standard 1/2" body"?