Hi all,
Hoping you can help with an issue. In December our Bryant furnace had the Limit Circuit Fault error - 33.
Called A/C company and they replaced the control board and motor. After they replaced the parts they tested it with the door off/switch taped and it worked. It's Florida, so running the heat is rare down here. Thought it was fixed.
Last night it was cold. Turns out, the same issue is happening. Fault 33. Heat kicks on then the whole system shuts off after a few minutes and the LED displays the code. I tested all of the switches mentioned in the fault description and they all seem to be fine. The filters are not too old and don't look bad. The control board and blower motor are new. I will say the exhaust vent gets super hot.
Here is where things get weird. I took the door off and taped the switch again and the heater worked fine. It was going for a good 20 minutes. I realize it has access to a lot more air coming in that way. Then I put the door back on and before I could even finish putting the screws back in the system shut off. The other thing I noticed was that there is a 4 inch exhaust vent hose coming out of the furnace into the attic - but - in the attic it converts to a 3 inch vent hose for the remainder of the way straight out the top of the roof (about 8 feet).
So - does opening the door help force air out the exhaust? I'm not sure where to go from here. DO I need cheaper/see through filters? DO I need to change out the vent pipe in the attic? Or do either of those matter?
Thanks,
Greg
Hoping you can help with an issue. In December our Bryant furnace had the Limit Circuit Fault error - 33.
Called A/C company and they replaced the control board and motor. After they replaced the parts they tested it with the door off/switch taped and it worked. It's Florida, so running the heat is rare down here. Thought it was fixed.
Last night it was cold. Turns out, the same issue is happening. Fault 33. Heat kicks on then the whole system shuts off after a few minutes and the LED displays the code. I tested all of the switches mentioned in the fault description and they all seem to be fine. The filters are not too old and don't look bad. The control board and blower motor are new. I will say the exhaust vent gets super hot.
Here is where things get weird. I took the door off and taped the switch again and the heater worked fine. It was going for a good 20 minutes. I realize it has access to a lot more air coming in that way. Then I put the door back on and before I could even finish putting the screws back in the system shut off. The other thing I noticed was that there is a 4 inch exhaust vent hose coming out of the furnace into the attic - but - in the attic it converts to a 3 inch vent hose for the remainder of the way straight out the top of the roof (about 8 feet).
So - does opening the door help force air out the exhaust? I'm not sure where to go from here. DO I need cheaper/see through filters? DO I need to change out the vent pipe in the attic? Or do either of those matter?
Thanks,
Greg