Black algae everywhere

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rick52768

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I know unwanted things can grow in places you do not want from time to time, but I am wondering why do I have the problem in my "new" home, compared to my own.

I fight black algae on my faucets, water dispenser of my refrigerator and now my dishwasher. It is not mold, just algae, but not the kind you should be eating or drinking. See attached photo from inside my dishwasher.

The big question I have is why does this house have the issue, which is across town from my last house that never had this issue? Both houses will get pink mold in the showers if you are lazy, but never had black algae in any house I have lived in.

Could the copper pipes of my houses I have been around stopped the issue on a chemical reaction level? Could the CPVC pipes caused the issue for the same reason?

Both houses that I have the lived at the longest are supplied by the same water source, and would be round about the same distance from the source (City provided and treated). The main trunk line towards the new house is much newer than the old house in case that could come into question.

I do like, but can handle cleaning the faucets and water dispenser, but the dishwasher issue looks like it is another full time job that I do not need. I want to replace the dishwasher this up coming year as it really sucks (see my old post, which I can update), but do not want to get the new DW involve in this dirty affair! Help

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Reach4

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I don't know what that black stuff is, but it seems to be stuff that has settled as sediment. Do you have reason to think it is growing? I certainly don't know how to identify black algae. It sounds like you can tell.

Some things I would consider are a whole house filter, and some low range chlorine test to make sure some chlorine is getting as far as your house. You would want to find out if your local water system uses chlorine or chloramine. Also, how about sanitizing your plumbing system as should be done when a well owner sanitizes the well. A cartridge filter housing is a good place to introduce chlorine bleach for a sanitizing operation.

I am not a pro.
 

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After much research, my thought is to call it black algae and I could be wrong. It will not be the first time.

If is was just settling I would think it would be at the bottom of areas and cracks mostly. Mainly seems to be at places that has both water and air much like mold.

Never known mold to grow in thickness or be this slick.

I already have a whole house filter and had the problem before and after. I also have a water softener and again had the problem before and after. Same as to my water heater which is about 2-3 years old.

Cannot remember which type of chlorine our water company uses, but will ask. They are pretty good about customer relationships so they may test or provide test(s) for me. I will check that route first and go from there. Thanks

Still would like any input on what this really is and why I have it. Those type of things I do not expect to get straight answers from the water company. Much like my water pressure issues.
 

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If is was just settling I would think it would be at the bottom of areas and cracks mostly. Mainly seems to be at places that has both water and air much like mold.
That makes sense. So something growing. I would hit it with a chlorine bleach solution now, but keep looking into a longer term solution.
I already have a whole house filter and had the problem before and after. I also have a water softener and again had the problem before and after. Same as to my water heater which is about 2-3 years old.
Tell us about that filter? Is it one that removes chlorine by chance?
 

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I think that could be the issue. Model of the cartridge is 3WH-STDCW-F02 "reduces chlorine taste and odor". Looks likes I will need to up my cost to get a decent micron filter for the really bad stuff without help from carbon and learn to enjoy the taste and smell of pool water in my drinking glass.

At least if this is the problem and changing my filter will solve it, then I will replace this horrible dishwasher.
 

Reach4

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I think that could be the issue. Model of the cartridge is 3WH-STDCW-F02 "reduces chlorine taste and odor". Looks likes I will need to up my cost to get a decent micron filter for the really bad stuff without help from carbon and learn to enjoy the taste and smell of pool water in my drinking glass.

At least if this is the problem and changing my filter will solve it, then I will replace this horrible dishwasher.
Here is what I would think. Turn off water. Take the filter cartridge out, and put 1/2 cup of bleach in the housing. Put the housing back on. Put the WH into Vacation or Off mode. Drain the WH. Run water at the kitchen hot and other faucets until you smell bleach. Then close off the faucets. Do the same with cold. Flush the toilet twice.Run an empty load or two in the DW. Maybe add another 1/4 cup of bleach into the DW before starting. Then after stuff sits for a while, drain the WH again. Turn the water on on all of your faucets to flush this high level of chlorine into the sewer. Flush the toilet 3 times. Then turn the WH heat back on.

The point of all of this is to sanitize your pipes etc.

A shorter version would be to just remove the cartridge until you get a sediment cartridge rather than a chlorine removal cartridge. Put 1/2 cup of bleach in the DW, and do an empty load. Eventually the city chlorine should make its way thru your pipes to kill off stuff.

Get a faucet-tip water filter to remove chlorine from your drinking water, if you like.

For the sediment filter, 10 x 2.5 is a very common size. Here is one source: http://www.discountfilterstore.com/...ed/10-x-2-1-2.html?size_advertised_filter453=
That site is nice in that it has a finder in the left column that lets you choose characteristics including size. I would look into the Pentek P1.
 
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rick52768

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I will likely go the second route as getting my refrigerator out to turn off its water supply for the whole house flush would not be possible right now.

Would like to pick something with a low micron filtering (5 or less), but still has a good flow rate. The question would be how to pick a proper flow rate. Using the link you gave shows a range of .5 to 50+ GPM. I seem to remember timing how long it take to fill a water gallon jug, but that was for only one fixture.
 

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Your flows probably stay below 10 GPM.... maybe 6 or 7. However I think those GPM numbers are when the filters are new. So I would think 15 or 20 GPM rating would give you some margin, but with a 10x2.5, you are probably limited to 10 GPM rating or a little more maybe. Maybe compare to what you had before. I think that was a 10 GPM, so if that was OK, 10 GPM rating may be enough for you. Maybe the Pentek P5.

If you were to put in a bigger housing, I like the 4.5 x 20.
 
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rick52768

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Never been very happy with the water pressure in the house. From memory the filter did not make it any worst, but I will do some testing today without and see what I get. I have some water gauges rated in psi, but do not have adapters to test at the faucets or tubs. I think the timed bucket fill trick will do.

How much does the meter size, pipe size and material dictate flow rate? My meter is 5/8", main line is 3/4" CPVC and down to 1/2" CPVC near the fixtures. Also, on average we use 3000 gallons per month.

The house is a two story on a walkout basement with 2 1/2 baths that will grow to 3 1/2 if I ever get the basement finished.
 

Reach4

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The drops add up. If you do a search engine search for pipe calculator psi you will find some tables and calculators. Add cpvc and/or pex to the search, you may find one that has more of what you want.

Your decision to get a water pressure gauge is good. A 0-100 PSI would be better for this purpose than a 0-200 PSI. You can put your garden hose thread gauge various places including the WH drain. But even a 0-200 can be very useful. Some have a lazy/tattletale hand that can record the peak seen. For some of those, you can wind the hand around so it records the minimum pressure. Some of those hands can be vibration sensitive, and a sudden pressure change can propel the lazy hand farther than the realtime needle actually went.

While you can find garden hose thread (GHT) to aerator adapters, the pressure you read would be the pressure where the line to the faucet tees off to the flowing faucet.
 

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From the bucket test one tub is about 10.9 GPM and the other is 13 GPM. Hard to believe the one is that high, but a good guess of 10 GPM sounds pretty good.

If I read you correctly, the pressure measured is the line and not the fixture with the adapter and psi gauge?

My two outside water spigot measurements are between 51-55 psi (Watts) and 61-65 psi (USG) with maybe 1-2 psi drop when the other is fully open with no restrictions. Funny, as I remember that did this test once before and got around the same range, but either spigot would drop around 15-20 psi with the other fully open. I did change out the 1/2" spigot supply lines for 3/4" and bypassed the water filter.

But that is another discussion for another day. I have the Pentek P5 on its way and the black algae should soon be gone. I guess it may even keep my toilet bowls cleaner as well. Thanks again for all of your help Reach4.
 

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From the bucket test one tub is about 10.9 GPM and the other is 13 GPM. Hard to believe the one is that high, but a good guess of 10 GPM sounds pretty good.
Really good.
If I read you correctly, the pressure measured is the line and not the fixture with the adapter and psi gauge?
When the gauge is in place, no water is flowing through that pipe. So everywhere on that pipe, after the tee that feeds it, will have the same pressure if the pipe is horizontal.
 

rick52768

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Hard to believe that my house has good pressure or flow. I can sometimes feel it drop while in the shower and nothing else in the house is running. Seems like my neighbors can cause the drop, is that possible?

I now understand what you mean as to the pressure test on the horizontal line after the tee for that fixture. Makes sense

Thanks
 
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