Bathroom Vanity drain is too low for drawer

[Zimm0who0net]

Here's the issue. The drain in the wall is 19" high. When I put in a standard P-trap I had to use a tailpiece extension and that puts the P-trap low enough that it interferes with the drawer in the vanity. Here's a photo:

What are my options? If I put the P-trap directly on the tailpiece without the extension, the P-trap clears the drawer easy, but it won't come close to hitting the wall stub-out.

I thought about a bottle trap, but I don't think the sink is perfectly aligned with the wall stub-out (it's about 1-1/2" off from center).

I've broken into the wall (as you can see), but moving the wall stub-out isn't going to be easy. There's a stud right to the left of it, and the cold water valve is pretty close to right above it.

 

[wwhitney]

Option 1-- Notch the drawer. If the p-trap doesn't hit that panel with the receptacles and all, would not be too hard.

Option 2--Open the wall more, move the water valve or to the right, move the san-tee up (if that is what you have, the picture is a bit dark there).

Option 3--If you are under the IPC and can use AAVs, you could remove the extension, raise the trap, add a san-tee with trap adapter outside the wall, add an AAV on the top of the san-tee at least 4" above the trap arm, come out of the bottom of the san-tee with a LT90, and then enter the wall on the horizontal. Probably would have to remove the trap adapter from the san-tee in the wall, or replace the san-tee in the wall.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Zimm0who0net]

I saw online that someone had done something like the photo below, but that's starting to feel like an S-trap to me:

Option 1-- Notch the drawer. If the p-trap doesn't hit that panel with the receptacles and all, would not be too hard.

Option 2--Open the wall more, move the water valve or to the right, move the san-tee up (if that is what you have, the picture is a bit dark there).

Option 3--If you are under the IPC and can use AAVs, you could remove the extension, raise the trap, add a san-tee with trap adapter outside the wall, add an AAV on the top of the san-tee at least 4" above the trap arm, come out of the bottom of the san-tee with a LT90, and then enter the wall on the horizontal. Probably would have to remove the trap adapter from the san-tee in the wall, or replace the san-tee in the wall.

Cheers, Wayne

Thanks.
I think notching the drawer is going to be problematic. I would definitely get into the cutout for the outlet and I think that'll compromise the structural integrity of the drawer. (not to mention that I'll always have to keep things out of the middle of the drawer.
Option 2 I'm sure would work, but that means moving that water valve (which is all copper plumbing), and then moving the stub out up. That's an afternoon for someone like me.

I was able to move the P-trap to the back of the cabinet like the attached photo. and get the drawer to JUST BAAAAARELY close. Now I just have to get something to connect the tailpiece to the P-trap. Anything wrong with doing it like this?

 

[Zimm0who0net]

I figured I'd update what I actually ended up doing just in case someone stumbles upon this thread. I put the P trap in the very back of the cabinet and the drawer just barely stops before running into it. Seems to be working and no jerry-rigged S traps that I saw in some other forums for how to fix the problem.

The more I look at this, the more I'm thinking I might do this to the other vanity sinks in my house that are more traditional (i.e. door fronts). It puts the trap way at the back of the cabinet so it's not right in the center of the space, inevitably blocking the use of the space under the sink.