Basement Bathroom Remodel Advice

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smc332s

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First timer here with questions about line sizing and vent sizing. I have attached a rough (and I'm sure it's rough, not to scale by any means...) layout of my basement bathroom remodel project and would like any advice/input offered. Can I vent the 3 fixtures in the drawing this way? Are my pipe sizes correct? The city I live in follows IPC. Is what I have laid out acceptable for this?

Thanks in advance and look forward to hearing from you.

Scott
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smc332s

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Thanks for the reply James. After doing some more busting of concrete I found there was not a 3" line where I had originally thought. I like your drawing and plan on venting that way but the 3x3x2 Wye will be between the two toilet locations now since I have to tie into the original toilets line. Will this still work?

Thanks again
 

James Henry

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Thanks for the reply James. After doing some more busting of concrete I found there was not a 3" line where I had originally thought. I like your drawing and plan on venting that way but the 3x3x2 Wye will be between the two toilet locations now since I have to tie into the original toilets line. Will this still work?

Thanks again
Show me the exact location of the existing drain line.
 

smc332s

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Is the toilet against an interior wall and I still need to know where the main drain line is.
The old toilet was against a wall that backed to a pantry/mud room? New toilet location will be on a closet wall. Attached is my main drain from the upstairs. As far as I have found all drainage is running left to right. Behind the washer wall is piping for that as well as a drain in the utility room. I assume this is where everything connects to the main? 1970 house so am unsure how it is done
 

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Dana

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Completely orthoganal to the drain plumbing issues, most 1970s homes don't have any foundation wall insulation. If any of the bathroom walls are next to the foundation this becomes an opportunity moment for fixing that. Insulating the basement walls in your area has only a modest impact on energy use (unless there is a lot of above-grade exposure) but it also lowers the mold risk & plumbing freeze-up risk. Independence MO is US climate zone 4, where the IRC calls out R10 continuous insulation as the current code minimum.

That could be 1.5" of foil faced polyiso held in place with 1x4 furring through-screwed to the foundation with masonry screws or trapped to the wall with a studwall (which makes running the electric & plumbing easier.) While it would still be code-legal, a batt insulated wall is at high risk of starting a mold problem, and not really best practice.
 
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