Mikey
Aspiring Old Fart, EE, computer & networking geek
Ding ... Ding indeed! Now I know why guys go to those fights!Ding... Ding! LOL
Ding ... Ding indeed! Now I know why guys go to those fights!Ding... Ding! LOL
Settled! you wish... I quoted what you said, you used UV and chlorination and now you're playing word games.I neither did nor say that. What are you talking about? There's is no indication, declaration, implication or proclamation, statement or picture that shows the UV is AFTER the chloination. No use of sequential adverbs related to equipment descriptions were used. You base your statement on presumptive suppositions alone. Even showing you pictures doesn't seem to help. But then....oh well, never mind.
Whew! I'm glad that is settled. Or wait, maybe I'll need to explain it agian??? Next, you're probably going say I said that filters go after the UV, and solution pump inside the retention tank, right?
Anyway, Gary, you need to relax a little more, Take it easy. It's a beautiful day. Focus. Enough said on this topic.
Actually I see it as debate and weeding out salesmen BS but...This is the EXACT kind of arguing and bickering I am receiving around here from the local guys. Each seller says another's idea or product doesn't work, or theirs is the best.
My water was tested again today for the 3rd time from a Well and Pump water conditioner company they got 4 1/2 PPM Iron and 6 PH.
Actually I see it as debate and weeding out salesmen BS but...
Are you now saying you don't have IRB in your water? If so, then an iron filter should work but, with your low pH, you need an acid neutralizing filter. That will remove some of the iron and I suggest only the backwashed type. Then a specially built softener designed to remove 4.6 to 6 ppm+ of iron and the raw water and added hardness form the AB filter.
From my experience (I have pretty much the same problem you do) the answer is "not very". I inject liquid chlorine while the pump is running, and the water goes into a 120gal holding tank. Coming out of the tank, there's a high residual Cl level. We then go through a string filter which needs to be changed every month. Then to the carbon filter and a softener. After all this the water looks OK and tastes fine, but there's an iron residue left in toilet tanks and on the dish drainer at the sink.And Gary, the Chlorination system you mentioned, the Chlorine is supposed to Oxidize the Iron, then it goes to the Carbon filter to remove the Chlorine, does the Carbon filter also remove the Oxidized Iron and should the water be clear after leaving the Carbon filter?
I have shocked the well with Chlorine, this has made the water crystal clear. Now if there was Iron or Iron Bacteria in the water, which the tests says there is, from my understanding the Chlorine should have oxidized it and made the water brown ...
As I told you, this is the second time you shocked the well in the last couple weeks. You shouldn't have much IRB in the well this soon afterwards. As far as ferric iron (rusty water), the water below your pump can not be pumped out of the well and rust will settle out into that area. The water above the pump's inlet will then be clear. And after the chlorine is unable to kill or oxidize anything then iron and IRB levels increase to what they were before.OK I am still confused.
I have shocked the well with Chlorine, this has made the water crystal clear. Now if there was Iron or Iron Bacteria in the water, which the tests says there is, from my understanding the Chlorine should have oxidized it and made the water brown but this is not the case. I have not run all of the Chlorine out yet so I don't know what the water will be like after I do.
And Gary, the Chlorination system you mentioned, the Chlorine is supposed to Oxidize the Iron, then it goes to the Carbon filter to remove the Chlorine, does the Carbon filter also remove the Oxidized Iron and should the water be clear after leaving the Carbon filter?
You should get rid of the toy "whole house" disposable cartridge filter and if your carbon filter is allowing chlorine and/or dirty water through it, then you need to replace the carbon and the filter is either too small for the SFR gpm of your family, number of bathrooms and type of fixtures or, you've ruined the carbon. That happens when retention is too short or you don't have a retention tank and are using the pressure tank for retention OR, you have the wrong type of carbon or you have a water leak somewhere etc.. Or you don't change your cartridge when it is needed and most probably that's fouled your carbon.From my experience (I have pretty much the same problem you do) the answer is "not very". I inject liquid chlorine while the pump is running, and the water goes into a 120gal holding tank. Coming out of the tank, there's a high residual Cl level. We then go through a string filter which needs to be changed every month. Then to the carbon filter and a softener. After all this the water looks OK and tastes fine, but there's an iron residue left in toilet tanks and on the dish drainer at the sink.
Mine used to do that -- I just drained the holding tank now and then and some nasty brown water came out for a while. For the last 3 or 4 years, however, it drains clear. The oxidized iron stays in suspension and does not precipitate out. I took the system apart a while back and pressure-washed the tank just to be sure I wasn't missing anything, and it came out clean.In my own experience, the stuff that is oxidized and brown settles somewhere rather than being suspended in the water.
I'd love to.You should get rid of the toy "whole house" disposable cartridge filter
The carbon is in a 10"x54" tank with a Fleck controller (unknown model - no markings at all) on it. Don't know what kind of carbon he used. 2 people, 2 baths, we use around 125gpd including softener regeneration. "Outside" water (irrigation, etc.) doesn't go through the filter.and if your carbon filter is allowing chlorine and/or dirty water through it, then you need to replace the carbon and the filter is either too small for the SFR gpm of your family, number of bathrooms and type of fixtures
I don't doubt I need to replace the carbon. The original installer, however, said I only needed to do that when the water started to taste/smell of chlorine. It's now been 5 years since the carbon filter was rebedded, and there's no such taste or smell yet.or, you've ruined the carbon. That happens when retention is too short or you don't have a retention tank and are using the pressure tank for retention OR, you have the wrong type of carbon or you have a water leak somewhere etc.. Or you don't change your cartridge when it is needed and most probably that's fouled your carbon.
OK, I'm sold. I can believe the carbon is in need of replacement, and would like to try your system. I've got a couple of questions, but will check your website and try to carry on from there. One question of general interest, though might be: How is the pellet system metered? My liquid system pumps chlorine whenever the well pump runs, so it tends to overchlorinate when we're doing a lot of outside work.My inline erosion pellet chlorinator is a pressurized system, no mixing a solution every few weeks etc. in an atmospheric storage tank that allows the solution to start weakening as soon as it is mixed. No separation of the chlorine and water in the solution tank while the pickup tube is sucking up the strongest solution as it weakens to next to no chlorine content. There's no need to dump the retention tank and start over to get the right strength of solution and the right volume injected etc..
My system does not have those problems and works constantly without babysitting. All it requires is just once every month drain X gallons from the bottom drain on the mixing tank until the water gets as clear as possible and about every 2-3 months, you clean the hopper and add more pellets.
Maybe more iron, don't really know. The chlorine dose may not be set correctly, but it's too high if anything.IMO ,that means you don't have the amount of iron you used to, or you don't have the chlorine strength or dose set right.
Don't think that's the problem -- residual chlorine in the settling tank outflow is very high.Another reason your iron may not be precipitaing can be that the solution can weaken in strength depending on age and storage methods. Chlorine gases can escape and the solution becomes weak.
Flows on the house side are too low to trigger any reasonably-priced flow meters I've seen; can you give me a make/model?So attach the unit to the whole house flow meter side (after the outside lines)
This is awkward, but...
It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.
If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.