First, I want to say this is a great forum and I've spent hours here before making an account.
Can you tell me a little bit about this drain, I just purchased my first home. It has a septic and I am on a well. The builder cut the 3" flush with the concrete. Initially the condensate line was poking so far down into this drain, that it wasn't dripping from the drain, more so filling up until the water could go down.
Now that a/c condensate line is fixed. Momentarily while I plumb this up. If I stub up from this will I cause any issues?
Lets discuss this a bit... how an air gap is required by code in many places. I don't like the idea of just hovering a pipe over a 3" PVC that is flush concrete to drain my softener. Lowes and Home Depot do not carry air gaps other than dishwasher air gaps.
So I ordered many from Amazon. In oklahoma an air gap is 6" or 2x pipe diamater.
This first setup I tried, I did not like what so ever. It splashed out the sides and gave me a heart attack. Part number - AG100-001.
It also reduces down inside the port. Which concerns me. I already have a DFLC (Drain Flow Line Control) on the water softener drain.
Second setup - Tested, did not like this, It still splashed out the sides and onto drywall.
I still have to put the drain for the brine tank, and the A/C condensate line and its already splashing and feels crowded.
Third idea - Now, with this, the 4" is more or less a splash guard. The Mister Drain Air Gap fits PERFECTLY here. I mean completely snug and a little glue would make it permanent. Yet to test this one.
Lastly, I want to ask, why wouldn't something like this work. I know its directly physically connected but so is the Mister Drain AirGap. Drain on the left for my brine overflow. Drain on the right for the water softener. Center drain for the a/c condensate line to drip.
Can you tell me a little bit about this drain, I just purchased my first home. It has a septic and I am on a well. The builder cut the 3" flush with the concrete. Initially the condensate line was poking so far down into this drain, that it wasn't dripping from the drain, more so filling up until the water could go down.
Now that a/c condensate line is fixed. Momentarily while I plumb this up. If I stub up from this will I cause any issues?
Lets discuss this a bit... how an air gap is required by code in many places. I don't like the idea of just hovering a pipe over a 3" PVC that is flush concrete to drain my softener. Lowes and Home Depot do not carry air gaps other than dishwasher air gaps.
So I ordered many from Amazon. In oklahoma an air gap is 6" or 2x pipe diamater.
This first setup I tried, I did not like what so ever. It splashed out the sides and gave me a heart attack. Part number - AG100-001.
It also reduces down inside the port. Which concerns me. I already have a DFLC (Drain Flow Line Control) on the water softener drain.
Second setup - Tested, did not like this, It still splashed out the sides and onto drywall.
I still have to put the drain for the brine tank, and the A/C condensate line and its already splashing and feels crowded.
Third idea - Now, with this, the 4" is more or less a splash guard. The Mister Drain Air Gap fits PERFECTLY here. I mean completely snug and a little glue would make it permanent. Yet to test this one.
Lastly, I want to ask, why wouldn't something like this work. I know its directly physically connected but so is the Mister Drain AirGap. Drain on the left for my brine overflow. Drain on the right for the water softener. Center drain for the a/c condensate line to drip.
