Arcanum
New Member
Hello. I hope I can get some advice from those with more experience than me at this particular situation.
In the photo is my current washing machine outlet box and standpipe which I ultimately want to move to the left where indicated. I am removing a utility sink outside the photo frame to the left of the washer/dryer then sliding everything over and then placing the sink back on the right (the sink was very hard to access where it was on the left of washer/dryer). The current 1-1/2" drain pipe would ideally be removed, replaced with a 2" standpipe heading over to that side along with new supply lines (tapped into somewhere and running pex to outlet box). It would be nice to have the new sink location drain into the old 2" standpipe on right.
My biggest question - where is the P-trap? The floor these pipes disappear into is concrete block (filled/solid I believe). I'm uncertain if these two 2" stubs connect to each other inside the concrete block, but would there be someway a P-trap exists in concrete?! Or did my existing standpipe simply have no p-trap? I've never had sewer smells in the garage. The second question - how to get 2" pipe over to the new standpipe location and which drain do I do that with and how to route? The current vent pipe connected drain is glued VERY close to the floor plate and concrete (see last picture). Could that be heated and loosened without compromising it and replace with a 2" (non-reducing) sanitary tee over to a new p-trap I build? That would do the trick, however I don't think I'm going to break that fitting off easy and without harming the pipe for the new fitting.
Another idea with leaving that fitting on the central vent pipe line / drain to sewer is capping it above the fitting, removing 1-1/2" pipe and cap, then I tap into that 2" on the right and elbow it over above the newly capped 1-1/2" fitting going down, but tee it into the vent pipe, then continue to the new outlet box (with the assumption there is indeed a p-trap beneath floor level on that 2" on that side).
This is Florida. No basement, house is a solid concrete block foundation on perimeter since it's on a slope (that's what this PVC goes into and some of what I assume are my original copper supply lines). Built 1984. Close-up of that central reducing sanitary tee at floor that I'm afraid to try and loosen for fear it will break or warp.
In the photo is my current washing machine outlet box and standpipe which I ultimately want to move to the left where indicated. I am removing a utility sink outside the photo frame to the left of the washer/dryer then sliding everything over and then placing the sink back on the right (the sink was very hard to access where it was on the left of washer/dryer). The current 1-1/2" drain pipe would ideally be removed, replaced with a 2" standpipe heading over to that side along with new supply lines (tapped into somewhere and running pex to outlet box). It would be nice to have the new sink location drain into the old 2" standpipe on right.
My biggest question - where is the P-trap? The floor these pipes disappear into is concrete block (filled/solid I believe). I'm uncertain if these two 2" stubs connect to each other inside the concrete block, but would there be someway a P-trap exists in concrete?! Or did my existing standpipe simply have no p-trap? I've never had sewer smells in the garage. The second question - how to get 2" pipe over to the new standpipe location and which drain do I do that with and how to route? The current vent pipe connected drain is glued VERY close to the floor plate and concrete (see last picture). Could that be heated and loosened without compromising it and replace with a 2" (non-reducing) sanitary tee over to a new p-trap I build? That would do the trick, however I don't think I'm going to break that fitting off easy and without harming the pipe for the new fitting.
Another idea with leaving that fitting on the central vent pipe line / drain to sewer is capping it above the fitting, removing 1-1/2" pipe and cap, then I tap into that 2" on the right and elbow it over above the newly capped 1-1/2" fitting going down, but tee it into the vent pipe, then continue to the new outlet box (with the assumption there is indeed a p-trap beneath floor level on that 2" on that side).
This is Florida. No basement, house is a solid concrete block foundation on perimeter since it's on a slope (that's what this PVC goes into and some of what I assume are my original copper supply lines). Built 1984. Close-up of that central reducing sanitary tee at floor that I'm afraid to try and loosen for fear it will break or warp.
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