birchlake
Member
First, some background. Not that experienced with in-floor heat, so bear with my novice questions.
I have a 1008 sq. ft. home, concrete slab on grade, built in central Minnesota in 2011. Radiant heat provided by an Electro Industries 9KW electric mini-boiler, model EMB-H-9. I also have a Mitsubishi mini-split and a fireplace for additional heat sources. My in-floor system is controlled by a Tekmar 552 one stage heat thermostat using both the air sensor in combination with a floor sensor. No zoning; one loop.
#1. I have read from a few online threads that my "maximum floor heat" should not exceed 85 degrees. I have my maximum floor heat set-point on the thermostat set to 88 degrees. In the very cold weather that we have every winter in Minnesota, reducing this set-point from 88 degrees to 85 degrees becomes problematic in achieving my room air setpoint of 70. Is it a problem to be running with a maxiumum floor heat setpoint of 88 degrees? My floor coverings are a mix of carpet and sheet vinyl, with no hardwood flooring. The floor does not seem overly hot, even to bare feet, with the 88 degree setpoint. Is the primary reason for recommending 85 degrees to protect floor coverings, or does it have something to do with the concrete itself?
#2. I have my boiler temp set to 114 degrees farenheit during the colder winter months of December through February. In the spring and fall with more moderate outdoor temperatures, I can get by with a reduced boiler setpoint of 102 degrees farenheit. Is the 114 degree boiler temperature reasonable? It seems to keep up at this temp except for a few exceptionally cold days, where during load control (I'm on a dual-fuel program from the local cooperative), the power can be cut from my radiant system for 3-4 hours. The next higher temperature on the boiler is 126 degrees. So my question here is could I consider using the 126 degree boiler set-point for situations like this? Or would it be best just to leave it at 114 degrees and allow it to catch up?
#3. My system is operating at around 8-10 psi, according to the pressure gauge on the side of the boiler. While there are no issues with the operation of the system, I seem to remember it operating at a higher pressure when the system was first installed 5 years ago. Is my current pressure of 8-10 psi of any concern? What would be a reason to see a pressure drop over time? Would adding some water to the system increase my pressure and would there be any benefit to that? I have not added any water to my system since it was installed in 2011.
#4. I am considering spending part of the winter in a warmer climate. I understand that Tekmar has recently introduced a Wi-Fi thermostat, Model 561 (one stage heat unit) which could replace my Tekmar 552 and I wouldn't need to purchase the additional internet hub unit. This would give me peace of mind by allowing me to monitor the temperature in my house while I am away. Does anybody have any experience with these new Tekmar Wi-Fi thermostats for my type of application?
Thanks for any input/insight!
I have a 1008 sq. ft. home, concrete slab on grade, built in central Minnesota in 2011. Radiant heat provided by an Electro Industries 9KW electric mini-boiler, model EMB-H-9. I also have a Mitsubishi mini-split and a fireplace for additional heat sources. My in-floor system is controlled by a Tekmar 552 one stage heat thermostat using both the air sensor in combination with a floor sensor. No zoning; one loop.
#1. I have read from a few online threads that my "maximum floor heat" should not exceed 85 degrees. I have my maximum floor heat set-point on the thermostat set to 88 degrees. In the very cold weather that we have every winter in Minnesota, reducing this set-point from 88 degrees to 85 degrees becomes problematic in achieving my room air setpoint of 70. Is it a problem to be running with a maxiumum floor heat setpoint of 88 degrees? My floor coverings are a mix of carpet and sheet vinyl, with no hardwood flooring. The floor does not seem overly hot, even to bare feet, with the 88 degree setpoint. Is the primary reason for recommending 85 degrees to protect floor coverings, or does it have something to do with the concrete itself?
#2. I have my boiler temp set to 114 degrees farenheit during the colder winter months of December through February. In the spring and fall with more moderate outdoor temperatures, I can get by with a reduced boiler setpoint of 102 degrees farenheit. Is the 114 degree boiler temperature reasonable? It seems to keep up at this temp except for a few exceptionally cold days, where during load control (I'm on a dual-fuel program from the local cooperative), the power can be cut from my radiant system for 3-4 hours. The next higher temperature on the boiler is 126 degrees. So my question here is could I consider using the 126 degree boiler set-point for situations like this? Or would it be best just to leave it at 114 degrees and allow it to catch up?
#3. My system is operating at around 8-10 psi, according to the pressure gauge on the side of the boiler. While there are no issues with the operation of the system, I seem to remember it operating at a higher pressure when the system was first installed 5 years ago. Is my current pressure of 8-10 psi of any concern? What would be a reason to see a pressure drop over time? Would adding some water to the system increase my pressure and would there be any benefit to that? I have not added any water to my system since it was installed in 2011.
#4. I am considering spending part of the winter in a warmer climate. I understand that Tekmar has recently introduced a Wi-Fi thermostat, Model 561 (one stage heat unit) which could replace my Tekmar 552 and I wouldn't need to purchase the additional internet hub unit. This would give me peace of mind by allowing me to monitor the temperature in my house while I am away. Does anybody have any experience with these new Tekmar Wi-Fi thermostats for my type of application?
Thanks for any input/insight!